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Five Crazy Chris Sharma Deep Water Solos

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    GrippedG
    Balin Miller was one of the most accomplished solo climbers of his generation The post Alpinist Balin Miller Dies in a Rappel Accident in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alpinist-balin-miller-dies-in-a-rappel-accident-in-yosemite/
  • Do stopper knots stop?

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ai0BZQYqTH8
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    UK ClimbingU
    Noah Wheeler has repeated Sean Bailey's Font 9A/V17, Shaolin, in Red Rocks, Nevada. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779472
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    AlpineSavvyA
    If you have a fixed rope (either for a rappel or anchor) and it's loaded over an edge, you risk damaging it. Here's one method to easily move the load onto a sling and away from your rope. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/protect-your-fixed-rope-from-edge-abrasion
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • Dominic Oughton elected as new BMC President

    General News climbing
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    climber-magazineC
    <img src="https://www.climber.co.uk/_client/assets/event-image/dom-oughton-elected-as-bmc-president-nbsp-1718723864.jpg" /><br><br><div class="copy"> In challenging times for the organisation, Dominic Oughton was elected as the new British Mountaineering Council President at its annual general meeting recently.</div><hr /><p><a href="https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dominic-oughton-elected-as-new-bmc-president/">https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dominic-oughton-elected-as-new-bmc-president/</a>
  • These Boulders in Sardinia Are Otherworldly

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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/these-boulders-in-sardinia-are-otherworldly/
  • Show Notes/ Resources:

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/headstrap-legends-and-lore-from-the-climbing-sherpas-of-darjeeling