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When is redundancy dangerous? #climbinggear #breaktest

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  • 0 Votes
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    GrippedG
    A new video just dropped documenting one of the world's best climbing a new test-piece back in 2015 The post Nalle Hukkataival Making the First Ascent of a V14 in Rocklands appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/nalle-hukkataival-making-the-first-ascent-of-a-v14-in-rocklands/
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Z8wg37qbjo
  • Biophilia On The Rocks by Birch Malotky

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    5June’s humid breath settles in waves over the Mount Washington Valley as the sun dips low in the west. A shadow Cathedral Ledge pools at the base of the real one, growing long toward the chalets and the strawberry fields as I belay my partner up behind me. The air is heavy—with evening promising little… https://climbingzine.com/biophilia-on-the-rocks-by-birch-malotky/
  • 50% off paperback book sale

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    Score 50% off any of our paperback titles. Use the link below. Discount is applied at checkout. Applies to all of our Climbing Zine Books and Luke Mehall’s titles. https://shop.climbingzine.com/discount/NEWSLETTER50BOOKS https://climbingzine.com/50-off-paperback-book-sale/
  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • Is a small anchor angle better? Maybe not!

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. (Warning: anchor nerds only.) Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/is-a-small-anchor-angle-better-maybe-not
  • Noah Wheeler Climbing Shaolin V17

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Watch newly released send footage of the American's second V17 ascent The post Noah Wheeler Climbing Shaolin V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/noah-wheeler-climbing-shaolin-v17/
  • 0 Votes
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9t-Oc1_CNM