Skip to content

Double Spoc; top rope solo

General Climbing
10 4 616 1
  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    This post is deleted!
  • This post is deleted!

    This post is deleted!
  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    @devnull
    In general, or specific to the devices?

    Note, I only read/watched information on TRS.

    Regarding devices in general, the most crucial things seem to be carabiner cross loading and devices getting unblocked.

    Regarding general aspects it makes sense to analyse all steps that could fail and check for mitigations.
    Like is doing in their Lead Rope Solo risk analysis video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTTDRX6RTWc).
    But I think more details could/should be included.

  • @devnull
    In general, or specific to the devices?

    Note, I only read/watched information on TRS.

    Regarding devices in general, the most crucial things seem to be carabiner cross loading and devices getting unblocked.

    Regarding general aspects it makes sense to analyse all steps that could fail and check for mitigations.
    Like is doing in their Lead Rope Solo risk analysis video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTTDRX6RTWc).
    But I think more details could/should be included.

    @devnull

    For cross loading, you might have seen the latest video by Yann Camus already
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXVF5zmPt_I

    And for other risks to consider, there is also the episodes on Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo.

  • @devnull

    For cross loading, you might have seen the latest video by Yann Camus already
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXVF5zmPt_I

    And for other risks to consider, there is also the episodes on Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo.

    @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de I actually hadn't seen the latest video Yann put out, so that'll be on the list tonight!

    @HowNOT2's video is actually how I got interested in TRS in the first place! Really good and straightforward explanation of the mechanisms and risks involved.

  • This post is deleted!

    @pmonks@sfba.social @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de That's a good list, although your two thoughts ended up being six 😆

    I've thought a bit about the idea of using two different devices. I was about to pull the trigger on a CAMP Lift, but I wasn't convinced of its safety given its tendency to no longer engage when grabbed or tilted (against a rock perhaps?) — additionally most rope soloists who climb with progress capture devices (again, talking North America) seem to go with the double-trax, which also doesn't satisfy the "two different devices" constraint.

    I will have an ascender (a tibloc + PAS) and a descender (Mammut Smart).

    As for rope protection, I was planning on re-fixing often so as to not worry (too much) about edge protection.

    Lastly, will be running all of this on my garage anchor board to get all these new skills (and devices!) tested for real before I get out on rock!

  • @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de I actually hadn't seen the latest video Yann put out, so that'll be on the list tonight!

    @HowNOT2's video is actually how I got interested in TRS in the first place! Really good and straightforward explanation of the mechanisms and risks involved.

    @devnull
    I forgot, that has a collection of articles regarding Toprope solo.
    Including a non exhaustive list for risk analysis.

    You can find them at the end of the following page, where the first article is called 'To read for self-belaying'
    https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Indoor-and-Outdoor-Climbing

  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    I use microtraction, an old ushba and a homemade neck/elastic loop. Works fine. Ushba is primary, micro traction is secondary. Very smooth. Pay close attention to how your system performs in overhanging terrrain.
  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    This post did not contain any content.

Suggested topics


  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    21 Views
    GrippedG
    It took Barry Blanchard four attempts before completing what is now one of Canada's most famous alpine routes The post The Story of Infinite Patience, Famously Soloed by Marc-André Leclerc appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-story-of-infinite-patience-famously-soloed-by-marc-andre-leclerc/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    86 Views
    UK ClimbingU
    In this week's Friday Night Video, Connor Herson takes on one of the world's hardest crack climbs: Magic Line (8c+), in Yosemite Valley.First established by Ron Kauk in 1996, the climb has seen only five ascents since that time. Connor Herson spent the spring and fall season of 2024 working the route, making quick links through the d... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=784044
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    129 Views
    GrippedG
    Nicolai and Timo Užnik recently established Airbag V14, a new problem in Maltatal The post V17 Climber Shares V14 First Ascent with His Brother appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/v17-climber-shares-v14-first-ascent-with-his-brother/
  • Ace Team Climbs New Alpine M7 in Alps

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    121 Views
    GrippedG
    Tom Livingstone and Rob Smith climbed the route over a few days at the start of March The post Ace Team Climbs New Alpine M7 in Alps appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/ace-team-climbs-new-alpine-m7-in-alps/
  • Kai Lightner Climbs 5.14d in Colorado

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    124 Views
    GrippedG
    Since moving to Colorado, Rifle has become one of his local crags The post Kai Lightner Climbs 5.14d in Colorado appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/kai-lightner-climbs-5-14d-in-colorado/
  • American Skiers to Attempt Everest Descent

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    112 Views
    GrippedG
    Jim Morrison, Jimmy Chin and Mark Fisher hope to make the first ski complete ski descent of the north side of the world's highest mountain The post American Skiers to Attempt Everest Descent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/american-skiers-to-attempt-everest-descent/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    111 Views
    climbingC
    To keep things sporting, the team kayaked 280 miles, fended off polar bears, dangerously large waves, and their own inexperience in such lightweight boats. https://www.climbing.com/news/big-wall-first-ascent-greenland/
  • Emma Twyford climbs Mission Impossible, E9 6c

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    135 Views
    UK ClimbingU
    Emma Twyford has made the ninth ascent, and second female ascent, of Mission Impossible, at Gallt Yr Ogof, in Gwynedd, Wales. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=772548