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  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • My favorite framed ledge

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIO5BIj-rqs
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    GrippedG
    She would go on to become the first woman to climb the Seven Summits The post 50 Years Ago, Junko Tabei Became First Woman to Climb Everest appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/50-years-ago-junko-tabei-became-first-woman-to-climb-everest/
  • Climber Dies Skiing Peak Above Chamonix

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The local rescue group has had a busy week on the Mont Blanc Massif The post Climber Dies Skiing Peak Above Chamonix appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climber-dies-skiing-peak-above-chamonix/
  • Angelika Rainer Climbs Her Second 5.14c

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    GrippedG
    Both of her sends at the grade have been repeats of Adam Ondra first ascents The post Angelika Rainer Climbs Her Second 5.14c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/uncategorized/angelika-rainer-climbs-her-second-5-14c/
  • Climber Dies on Everest as Others Summit

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    A team of climbers using xenon gas to aid in their ascent is currently on their way up The post Climber Dies on Everest as Others Summit appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climber-dies-on-everest-as-others-summit/
  • New 8C+ and 8C boulders for Will Bosi

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    UK ClimbingU
    Will Bosi has made the first ascents of two new hard boulders in Switzerland, Brain Rot, 8C+, in Magic Wood, and Kyanite, 8C, in Val Bavona. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781340
  • This was First Climbed in 1907

    Videos climbing
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Sjbfw36ukk
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    climber-magazineC
    Will Bosi has ended his recent trip to Switzerland with first ascents of Brain Rot Font 8C+ in Magic Wood and Kyanite (Font 8C) in Val Bovona. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/will-bosi-ends-swiss-trip-with-two-hard-first-ascents/
  • Rescues are misunderstood

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvuw6yE4_d0
  • Downsize the Unparallel Qubit How Much?

    Videos climbing
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEle52genmc
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDcC24owZHE
  • Ovenden Moor Runner Becomes Accidental Firefighter

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    As the driest spring on record continues for another week, the risk of wildfire is significant across the moors and mountains of Britain. At the weekend, hill runner Nick Small got more than he bargained for on his regular Sunday jaunt in the P... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781310
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    GrippedG
    The competition, which takes place in Brazil, will see several of the world's best comp climbers going for gold The post Boulder World Cup Heads to South America for First Time Ever appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/boulder-world-cup-heads-to-south-america-for-first-time-ever/
  • 0 Votes
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    GrippedG
    Marchaland is no stranger to throwing down hard routes quickly The post Jules Marchaland Sends France’s First 5.14d on His Second Try appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jules-marchaland-sends-frances-first-5-14d-on-his-second-try/
  • English Reeve Hack

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZbY5HgW7qg
  • A Tribute to Virginia Boucher

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    It is with great appreciation that the American Alpine Club honors and celebrates the life of Virginia (Ginnie) Boucher—an unsung hero in the Club’s history.  Virginia Boucher was the chair for the AAC Library Committee for a decade, and a driving force in introducing best practices to the AAC Library from the 1990s onward—including online access to the AAC’s library catalog, expansion of library staff, and implementing interlibrary loans in this highly niche space of mountaineering libraries and literature. Boucher was also instrumental in the physical move of the AAC Library from the AAC’s original Clubhouse in New York to its current location among the mountains of Golden, Colorado.  Boucher received the 2005 Angelo Heilprin Citation from the AAC for exemplary service to the Club, thanks to her transformational leadership at the AAC Library. Not only did her leadership bring the full force of library science to bear on this now world-renowned library and archive, but she also helped steward the acquisition of many pieces of the John M. Boyle Himalayan Collection and the Nicholas B. Clinch Collection, two keystone collections in the AAC’s current holdings.  In the notes announcing her award of the Heilprin Citation, the Award Committee shares some tidbits that suggest that Boucher wasn’t just the bookish type—she also had a flair for adventure. The committee notes that she and her husband, Stanley Boucher–a lifetime member of the AAC—were known for their unplanned night descents, and had a hilarious story about fighting off porcupines in the San Juans. She climbed the Grand Teton, Rainier, and many of Colorado’s mountains, and in her early years started off her climbing at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs.  Boucher’s extensive impact as a volunteer for the AAC’s Library Committee was fueled by her love for the mountains and her calling as a librarian. But by the time she was serving on the committee, she had left climbing behind her. In her autobiography, she writes of this part of herself: “I know a number of those who have ‘summited’ Mount Everest…those who are addicted to boulders, and a few such as myself who climb [only] in our memories.” But even so, climbing was a part of her history and identity, and after shepherding the AAC Library into the world-class institution it is today, she recalls how her volunteer involvement with the AAC Library brought her full-circle in her career: “I have drawn upon my special library experience…to give the best advice I can to this emerging and unique library… And finally, I have returned to my beginnings; I shelve books once again.” https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/a-tribute-to-virginia-boucher
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    UK ClimbingU
    I really enjoy bold ascents like this, they just feel really fun and out there, and I love the feeling of mind control that leads to dangerous leads like this. It feels enjoyable and freeing. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781280
  • 10 Essential Tips for Beginner Rock Climbers

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Climbing can be the best way to enjoy your free time, just be sure to learn the basics first The post 10 Essential Tips for Beginner Rock Climbers appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/10-essential-tips-for-beginner-rock-climbers/
  • Three Climbers Die After Anchor Failure

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Some details have been released, including the age of the climbers and the route they were on The post Three Climbers Die After Anchor Failure appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/three-climbers-die-after-anchor-failure/