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  • Unparallel's Dirty Little Secret | The Gear Show

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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKTBkED1n-4
  • The Line— Skiing the Tetons Enduro Traverse

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    American Alpine ClubA
    In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and back to the valley floor to complete the Enduro Traverse—an unprecedented ski mountaineering adventure. Adam’s story about the Enduro will be in AAJ 2025. We’re offering a condensed version here. You can read an extended story—replete with Adam’s history of Teton link-ups—at the AAJ website. In 1963, John Evans, Richard Long, and Allen Steck completed the Grand Traverse, a summertime traverse of ten Teton Range summits, from Nez Perce to Teewinot (the opposite direction of how this now-classic traverse is usually done today). In the 1965 AAJ, Steck wrote, “Any route or time of day is acceptable, however, only be sure to finish within 24 hours.” For the Enduro ski traverse of the Tetons that I envisioned, sub-24 hours was our sole metric, as Steck had laid it out for us. For some years, I’ve been exploring Teton link-ups on skis with various partners, culminating with a day of skiing the Grand Teton, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot Mountain by some of their most technical routes. Sam Hennessey, Brendan O’Neill, and I pulled off this fine adventure in March 2023. To me it seemed logical to bring all of our experiences together in a much longer traverse—to see how far we could go in under 24 hours. In the Alaska Range, I have enjoyed moving under the midnight sun for 24, 30, hell, even 64 hours—why not see how this would work back home? It gets darker in Wyoming in the spring than in Alaska, but we have headlamps. The idea of the Enduro Traverse was to enchain the Teton skyline from Buck Mountain in the south to Teewinot, crossing over Mt. Wister, South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, and Mt. Owen along the way. At 6 p.m. on April 22, with the day’s heat still in the air, Michael Gardner, Brendan O’Neill, and I started skinning up Death Canyon in wet, sloppy snow. Under an endless sunset, we climbed the east ridge of Buck Mountain (11,938’) and clicked in on top for our first descent at 9:15 p.m. (A full moon allowed us to complete all the climbs sans headlamps, but we did use the lamps for our descents.) We skied down Buck’s hyper-classic east face and used a piece of terrain called the Buckshot to drop into the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon. The next climb was the South Headwall of Mt. Wister (11,490’), which flows into the upper east ridge. We reached Wister’s summit at 10:53 p.m. This was the lowest peak in our traverse, yet it packed a punch. The northeast face offered up some proper steep skiing—it felt engaging via headlamp—and deposited the three of us in the North Fork of Avalanche Canyon. Our next ascent took us up the South Teton’s Amora Vida Couloir (much more fun to descend than ascend), and here we encountered our least efficient travel of the day, with heinous breakable crust and soggy snow engulfing our entire legs. From the top of the South Teton (12,514’), the descent by the Northwest Chute was fast and uneventful. Now in Garnet Canyon’s South Fork, we began our climb up the Middle Teton’s Southwest Couloir, where efficient cramponing put us on the summit rather quickly. The descent down the east face into the Middle Teton Glacier route was harrowing on the refrozen undulating snow left by skiers who had descended in the warm days before us. But we were not there for the ski quality, rather the continuous movement. From the North Fork of Garnet Canyon, we made quick work of the Ford-Stettner route, topping out the Grand Teton (13,770’) at 6 a.m., 12 hours into our journey. The sun was beginning to rise above the horizon, and it felt great to embrace its warmth again. With a long block of daylight ahead, the three of us were confident as we descended the Ford-Stettner, with some thoughtful downclimbing in the Chevy Couloir, which is normally rappelled. (To save weight, we did not carry a rope and chose lines that would go without one.) We made our way into the Dike Snowfield an... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/19/the-enduro-traverse
  • New Quebec Ice Climb is 540 Metres Long

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    GrippedG
    Patrick Gagnes and Vincent Demers climbed the route this winter, along with a 255-metre WI3+RX - seen in the below image The post New Quebec Ice Climb is 540 Metres Long appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-quebec-ice-climb-is-540-metres-long/
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode, we’re sitting down with AAC member David Corvi to talk about his Live Your Dream grant experience—a beautiful day that turned into a 24 hour epic on Mt. Whitney in September of 2024. Getting off route, climbing through pockets of ice and show, and getting lost on the descent were only some of what the team experienced that day. Because there is another layer of complexity to this story, a mental load that added a unique weight to that experience. David’s trip to Whitney was also in memory of his stillborn son, Charlie. In the episode, David shares about his family’s experience with infant and child loss, how climbing and other forms of outdoor adventures have helped him process his grief and continue to parent Charlie even though he is gone, and likewise he reflects on how physical challenges, like half marathons and the Whitney trip, are a way to honor the life Charlie won’t ever get to experience. Dive into this episode to hear about your classic alpine day gone wrong, and just one way that grief and loss can be processed in the mountains. Apply to the Live Your Dream Grant (Opening March 1st, 2025) Charles Martin Corvi Fund Website How to Buy the Book: “Dear Charlie...Letters to My Son: A Father's Journey of Loss, Grief, and Remembrance” Deep Survival by Laurence Gonzalez Healthy Birthday (Stillbirth Prevention Advocates) Star Legacy Foundation Now I Lay Me Down to Sleep https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/2/27/connect-remembering-charlie-through-an-epic-on-mt-whitney
  • Standing Rock by the 5.11c is a Classic

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    GrippedG
    "We do not recommend it because of its very great objective danger," said the first ascent team. A new short film just dropped featuring the route The post Standing Rock by the 5.11c is a Classic appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/standing-rock-by-the-5-11c-is-a-classic/
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    UK ClimbingU
    Norwegian climber Mari Augusta Salvesen has made the first female ascent of The Zone (E9 6c) at Curbar in the Peak District. First climbed by John Arran in 1998, the 15-metre blank and bold line to the left of the classic The Peapod (HVS 5b) has attracted only 10 ascents in 27 years and relies on skyhooks for protect... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777527
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    climbingC
    Bernadette McDonald has spent her career celebrating communities the Western world has trained itself to ignore. Now, at 72, she’s tackled the most complex story of her life. https://www.climbing.com/people/bernadette-mcdonald-book-alpine-rising-review/
  • 2023 Climbing Advocacy Report

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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/2023-climbing-advocacy-report