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  4. Sunshine Crack in Bugaboos Has a New Start

Sunshine Crack in Bugaboos Has a New Start

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    “I wanted to do this one because it’s the epitome of big wall free climbing.” – Emily Harrington The post New Film Girl Climber Screens on IMAX appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/new-film-girl-climber-screens-on-imax/
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    It is like any other start to a day of climbing in the Black Canyon. Dave and I are up before the sun, throwing down coffee and a quick breakfast, and assembling all the hardware needed for the day’s climb. We gently descend down the Cruise Gully, careful not to dislodge any loose rocks, with… https://climbingzine.com/painted-wall-luke-mehall/
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    Margareta Morin was attempting to climb Kanchenjunga when she fell ill The post Climber Dies High Up on Himalayan Peak appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climber-dies-high-up-on-himalayan-peak/
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  • devnullD

    DMM Pivot for lowering to ground via top belay?

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    devnullD
    Last weekend I took a couple friends to the local crag for their first time out. Since I was the only one able to clean, others led and set the anchor, but on occasion if the leader were unable to reach the anchors, I would set the anchor and belayed the others up from the top using a grigri. That worked pretty well, though I'm aware that Petzl doesn't recommend using the grigri in such a manner (a redirected belay is preferred.) I did notice that the DMM Pivot set up in guide/auto-blocking mode had a dedicated method for lowering — using a second biner to adjust the angle of the device. Are there concerns with doing so for lowering a second climber all the way to the ground? Whenever lowering is mentioned, it's always in the context is lowering the second "a few feet" or so.