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Elegant and Brutal by Cristina Marcalow

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  • Denali Rescue, 1979: The Untold Full Story

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode, we have climbing legends Jamie Logan, Jack Tackle, and Ken Currens on the podcast to retell the story of an accident and rescue on Denali from 1979. Jack Tackle and Ken Currens were climbing partners with a number of big mountains and first ascents under their belt, and in 1979, it was their first trip to the Alaska Range. They had decided to attempt the unclimbed southeast face of Denali (also known as Mount McKinely). This face would later become known as the Isis Face. In the middle of the climb, Ken, on lead, took a 250 ft fall when snow gave way beneath him. Once the rope came taught, he was hanging in mid air over a cliff, his femur badly broken. The rescue that followed is a story for the ages. We dive into the mechanics of the accident, what Jack Tackle had to do to get help, and how Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump—two of the most impressive alpinists of the time—were critical in helping save Ken. She and Mugs are especially known for the first ascent of the Emperor Face the year before, and though Mugs has passed, Jamie was able to fill us in on their experience of the rescue. In this episode, these climbing legends put together, in real time, the pieces of this story (that they all remember a tad bit differently)—47 years later. Learn More About Jack Tackle Learn More About Jamie Logan The First Ascent of the Emperor’s Face in the AAJ https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/3/5/denali-rescue-1979-the-untold-full-story
  • Climber Who Died in 1994 Found on Swiss Glacier

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Climbers on Ober Gabelhorn found the remains of the missing climber and alerted authorities The post Climber Who Died in 1994 Found on Swiss Glacier appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climber-who-died-in-1994-found-on-swiss-glacier/
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    GrippedG
    "To say that the stars aligned is figurative, but to say that the Sun, Earth, and Moon aligned is in this case literal, and the gorgeous terrain of the Chaltén Massif was illuminated by a brilliantly bright full moon," said Colin Haley The post Colin Haley Solos the Ragni Route on Cerro Torre in Winter appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/colin-haley-solos-the-ragni-route-on-cerro-torre-in-winter/
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=203k0c_RmvA
  • Climber is First to Solo Eternal Flame in Karakoram

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Stefano Ragazzo made history last year by rope-soloing the famous 5.12 alpine big wall route The post Climber is First to Solo Eternal Flame in Karakoram appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climber-is-first-to-solo-eternal-flame-in-karakoram/
  • Spring is the Perfect Time to try Ice Climbing

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    By March, climbs are big, the ice is solid, the days are long, and the temps are warm enough that you probably won't freeze your fingers The post Spring is the Perfect Time to try Ice Climbing appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/spring-is-the-perfect-time-to-try-ice-climbing/
  • How strong is this???

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe_XC4F6kME
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    mootParadoxM
    Deception Crack, a classic 2* Hard Severe at Kyloe Out. Great conditions last night, and breezy enough to keep the midge at bay until almost 9pm. For #Northumberland sandbag aficionados, let me recommend Fakir's Slab. VDiff?!! They must be mad!! Fun route, afterwards, but approach it as you would a poorly protected and slopey Severe. #Climbing #RockClimbing #TradClimbing