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12 Oct 2024, 03:00

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  • Adam Ondra Opens a Unique 5.14d

    General News climbing 27 days ago
    1 Votes
    1 Posts
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    The short sandstone route features an extremely difficult crux The post Adam Ondra Opens a Unique 5.14d appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-opens-a-unique-5-14d/
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    Wild as it may seem, every year we publish at least one report of a climber getting their knee stuck in an offwidth crack. Sound crazy? It happened to Martin Boysen on Trango Tower and more recently Jason Kruk on Boogie Till You Puke.  On January 8, Climber 1 (female, 25) got her knee stuck in a wide crack on the Regular Route (3 pitches, 5.7) on Queen Victoria Spire in Sedona. Climber 1 was following four friends on her first outdoor climb when she attempted an “alpine knee” while pulling onto a ledge on the second pitch. An “alpine knee” is when you place that joint on top of a high hold and use it for progress, instead of a foot. Rather than helping her onto the ledge, Climber 1’s knee slipped into a four-inch-wide crack, where it wedged and became stuck. Others in her party tried pouring water over her knee in an attempt to free it but were unsuccessful.  At 5:15 p.m., the Coconino County Sheriff’s department was contacted to perform a rescue. By 8 p.m., the SAR team had arrived. It took over an hour to free the climber from the crack, and by then the climber was exhibiting signs of mild hypothermia (they had started climbing at 12:30 p.m.). The climbing party was airlifted off the spire. The stuck climber was not injured and refused treatment. The climbers in this scenario did “everything right,” according to the SAR team. They tried to free their partner, and failing that, they initiated a rescue. Many relatively easy routes have awkward sections or styles of climbing that may seem above the technical grade when first encountered outdoors. Care should be taken when making a move where a slip or fall could result in injury or entrapment. It took about four hours to free this climber, and temperatures at the crag dropped to around 30°F. Consider worst-case scenarios when preparing for a climb, as unexpected events could result in prolonged exposure to the elements. (Source: Dan Apodaca.)  If getting your knee stuck in an offwidth is so common, what do we do if it happens? In the video analysis, ANAC editor Pete Takeda provides some tips on how to prepare for this kind of worst-case scenario when rock climbing. Credits: Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and Hannah Provost, Content Director; Producer: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney @fosterdoodle_; Editor: Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Location: Cob Rock, Boulder Canyon, CO https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/12/prescriptionknee
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    Jakob Schubert reports multiple ascents on the Swiss blocs including the second ascent of Story of Three Worlds (Font 8C+). https://www.climber.co.uk/news/jakob-schubert-storms-swiss-blocs/
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXVF5zmPt_I
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    A consultation has begunon a new National Park in Galloway. This includes key details such as the park boundary, how it should be governed, and what it ought to be called. But while the proposal has gained backing from some, not everyone is co... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=776344
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    After suffering an injury while attempting the route earlier this year, she achieved her goal of redpointing the steep Greenspit The post Caroline Ciavaldini Climbs Famous 5.14 Trad appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/caroline-ciavaldini-climbs-famous-5-14-trad/
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zoIPAkuBVA
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    A new film was just released of Díaz-Rullo climbing on Muerte por Asfixia V16 The post Jorge Díaz-Rullo Climbing V16 in Spain appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jorge-diaz-rullo-climbing-v16-in-spain/