Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]

Interesting Petzl recall on a harness (there are multiple models where I could see this happening... plus equipment loops on some can easily be mistaken as weight bearing) -- must have been a death/injury. #climbing #recall #harness #petzl https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2024/Petzl-America-Recalls-GYM-PANDION-and-PANJI-Climbing-Harnesses-Due-to-Fall-Hazard

I finally got good beta on a semi sekrit climbing training wall just up the road from home today....time to start the journey to strong again. I miss being up high, sometimes even talking to eagles, so much. Yes, some of the planet's best climbing at Dyurrite / Mt Arapiles is only a long day trip away - it's just fuel budget not reachable at the minute.#climbing #rockClimbing

Okay, I did a thing. Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage. After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result. [image: 1724386660906-pxl_20240822_143020828-resized.jpg] [image: 1724386655118-pxl_20240822_194756349-resized.jpg] [image: 1724386621597-pxl_20240822_204026195.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1724387298601-pxl_20240823_021253567-resized.jpg] Some notes The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush. There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect! I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once! I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches. Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars): Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece) Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece) 1" spade bit ($8.98) 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece) 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece) Free/on-hand items: Scrap wood (2x4) Power drill and drill bits Adjustable wrench and socket wrench Deck screws Total: $32.96 CAD

this looks at least 50% safe!#climbing #pleasedontdothis https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd4T0uwZPgs

Some history about boulder #climbing grades. From easy, all the way to unforgiving nightmare xD V17 looks absolutely nuts.Not sure if I learnt anything new about grades, other than lower V is easy and higher V is difficult though lol Some of the middle blocks in the scale look somewhat similar to me.https://youtu.be/DnvpYvzbcg8?si=mA06GWeeA_gApGtL

How to show in one picture that you have absolutely no idea what #climbing and #mountaineering is about. ‍️#louisvuitton

In another climbing forum, user Leslie H. warns of a proposed $5/day parking fee for the Wrinkled Rock Climbing Area, and points to the financial impact to climbers visiting the area. N.B. do not participate or brigade other communities, please keep the discussion confined here My local crag is managed by Conservation Halton, who charges about $12 CAD for a day pass (which includes parking). Since I live in a suburban area, and the conservation authority serves the entire Greater Toronto Area, I feel this is well worth the cost. This money doesn't go towards the local climbing community, so I encourage those I climb with to also get memberships with the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (~$20/year) That said, do you pay to climb at your local crag? How much do you pay, and would you stomach a price increase?

Boulder semi-finals | Villars 2024#LIVE #LiveStreaming#bouldering #lead #climbing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60Jh-jvbjD4

6A mug, but a 9A brew #climbing #coffee #bouldering

Looks like there was some drama after the #climbing events in the #olympics that I wasn't aware of. I do agree route setters may have been a bit sketchy, and I did felt bad for Mori being so short, but I guess it was about style, and in the next Olympics, boulder and lead will be sepparated which is great, boulders aren't solved the same way as lead.In conclusion:"You send, or you bend. Over" xDThis won't stop me from complaining though, I'm short too lolhttps://youtu.be/RN5DhAruF3k?si=zaGayg3ekMOGXKwl

Looking to set up a belay/rappel station in my garage just for practice, trying out new things, and general faffery. I'm not super handy but can work my way around simple power tools. Anyway, my current plan is to: drill holes into a piece of 2x4 install tee nuts at the back (or maybe threaded inserts at the front, or failing that, nuts at the back.) install the hangers using M12 bolts (as per hanger specs) screw that unit directly into wall studs in my garage using deck screws slap on some quicklinks to the hangers and call it a day Thoughts? Hanging a picture frame is one thing, but supporting body weight is another entirely! I suppose it doesn't have to, but it'd be nice for it to be able to.

Quick overview of various descender devices used in #climbing #caving #rescue and other similar activities for rappeling.There's so many of them xDMy device of choice is the ATC also used as belay, since we don't do lengthy rappels and we use double rope, with a backup eight (I just like having it), and finally knowing that mounter hitch knot for panic mode.Sadly I'm forbiden to use the eight, they don't like to deal with the rope mess afterwards xDhttps://youtu.be/D3lHToJqsmk?si=k2PMNV_uXWN3soOd

Last weekend I took a couple friends to the local crag for their first time out. Since I was the only one able to clean, others led and set the anchor, but on occasion if the leader were unable to reach the anchors, I would set the anchor and belayed the others up from the top using a grigri. That worked pretty well, though I'm aware that Petzl doesn't recommend using the grigri in such a manner (a redirected belay is preferred.) I did notice that the DMM Pivot set up in guide/auto-blocking mode had a dedicated method for lowering — using a second biner to adjust the angle of the device. Are there concerns with doing so for lowering a second climber all the way to the ground? Whenever lowering is mentioned, it's always in the context is lowering the second "a few feet" or so.

It's not much, I'm just a sport climbing weenie, but here's mine! [image: 1723264901121-pxl_20240810_013819443-resized.jpg]

As a dedicated climber I've used the CAMP Photon #WireCarabiner over the past year. Its standout compact design, thanks to the wire gate, allows for easy clipping in tight spots and on your harness or pack. Perfect for multi-pitch climbs, it ensures quick and effortless clipping and unclipping. Despite its light weight, it's impressively strong. The Photon Wire is a top choice for those seeking durable and reliable #climbinggear.https://verticallstore.com/products/camp-photon-wire-carabiner#rockclimbing #climbingclips #carabiner

I’m a beginner climber and I got Evolv Shamans in my street size a few weeks ago since I read good reviews about them and I got them pretty cheap as they were in the discounted section of my local climbing shop, but only in that size. They’ve been great at allowing me to stand on small edges and get better height on my toes due to the thick rand, but they hurt like hell to wear, making the benefits I gain from using them somewhat moot, as I’m not able to climb and improve as much as I’d like to. I’ve been wearing them around the house in addition to the gym in the hopes of breaking them in quicker (I’ve had to wear plastic bags on my feet to prevent blisters on my heels and toes from excessive friction) and I noticed they don’t really seem to have broken in that much and still hurt my toes a lot (especially the tops of my big toes), so I’d like some recommendations for the next pair that I get. I have Morton’s toe/Greek feet and my feet are probably wider and less-arched than average. I’d like to get a more comfortable pair for long gym sessions, so I think I’d prefer lace-up shoes in the future. I’ve narrowed my choices down to the Scarpa Veloce L and the Ocún Advancer LU, both of which are lace-up, apparently suited for Greek feet, and are vegan. I’d appreciate some comparisons if people have experience with them, or if you have recommendations for other shoes that might suit my criteria better, please share them too!

Figured I ought to do a #introduction so here it is:I'm into #climbing and love messing around on rocks. #Trad or #SportClimbing even #bouldering .I also climb indoors #climbinggym where I do most of my instructing. I'm a qualified instructor and coach for both indoor and (fairly newly qualified) outdoor climbing, so if if you're looking to get into climbing or improve, feel free to get in touch. Other than that, I'm a massive geek, love #rpg and in a previous life, I did all kinds of #IT for a living.