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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • Adam Ondra Flashes One of the Hardest Trad Climbs in the World

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    GrippedG
    If you don't stick the crux move of Lexicon E11, an 80-foot whipper awaits The post Adam Ondra Flashes One of the Hardest Trad Climbs in the World appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-flashes-one-of-the-hardest-trad-climbs-in-the-world/
  • Adam Ondra makes history flashing sixth ascent of Lexicon (E11)

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    climber-magazineC
    Red-hot news from Langdale is that Adam Ondra has flashed Lexicon, Neil Gresham’s E11 Pavey Ark test-piece. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/adam-ondra-makes-history-flashing-sixth-ascent-of-lexicon-e11/
  • Adam Ondra flashes Lexicon, E11 7a

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    UK ClimbingU
    The ascent is the hardest trad flash of all time, and took place with no prior inspection of the holds. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781459
  • Tommy Caldwell Climbs Empath, Calls it 5.14b

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    GrippedG
    The granite route was originally graded 5.15a, but new beta has lowered the grade over the years The post Tommy Caldwell Climbs Empath, Calls it 5.14b appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/tommy-caldwell-climbs-empath-calls-it-5-14b/
  • Tough Men’s Final at Boulder World Cup in Brazil

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    GrippedG
    Nails-hard problems and few tops characterized the night in Curitiba. Here's who won gold, silver, and bronze The post Tough Men’s Final at Boulder World Cup in Brazil appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/tough-mens-final-at-boulder-world-cup-in-brazil/
  • V17 Climber Tops Deep Fake V16

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    GrippedG
    Camille Coudert recently sent the sit start to Fake Pamplemouse The post V17 Climber Tops Deep Fake V16 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/v17-climber-tops-deep-fake-v16/
  • How to Clean Your Harness and Helmet

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    GrippedG
    Keep your climbing gear looking and smelling fresh with these steps The post How to Clean Your Harness and Helmet appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/how-to-clean-your-harness-and-helmet/
  • Avalanche on Eiger Buries Several People

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    GrippedG
    Exact details of the location and how many people were involved have not been released as of midday May 17 The post Avalanche on Eiger Buries Several People appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/avalanche-on-eiger-buries-several-people/
  • Korean Climber Sends V16 in a Session

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    GrippedG
    Hyunbin Min makes history with a single-session V16 ascent of Ryuichi's Murai's United The post Korean Climber Sends V16 in a Session appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/korean-climber-sends-v16-in-a-session/
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/what-climbers-need-to-know-about-the-budget-reconciliation-bill
  • Fri Night Vid Climbing Through

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    UK ClimbingU
    Motherhood, guiding, her own counseling practiceprofessional climber Julia Niles has danced between responsibilities for years. Lured by her friend, professional climber Em Pellerin, to go climb the big walls of Cocham Valley, Chile, Julia relearns what it means to thrive. High off the deck, tied together, every action becomes a powerful re... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781387
  • Ellis Brigham New Keswick Store

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    UK ClimbingU
    Ellis Brigham will open a new store in Keswick this summer https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781386
  • Lurking Fear on El Cap Freed After 25 Years

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    GrippedG
    V16 climber Pietro Vidi has repeated the 19-pitch 5.13c a quarter of a century after Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden made the first free ascent The post Lurking Fear on El Cap Freed After 25 Years appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/lurking-fear-on-el-cap-freed-after-25-years/
  • New Crag in Squamish for 5.10 Climbers

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    GrippedG
    The Alpine Club of Canada Squamish section has released a topo and details for The Grotto The post New Crag in Squamish for 5.10 Climbers appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-crag-in-squamish-for-5-10-climbers/
  • Will Bosi Climbs New V15 in Switzerland

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    GrippedG
    Bosi has climbed several problems from V14 and up over the past few weeks The post Will Bosi Climbs New V15 in Switzerland appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/will-bosi-climbs-new-v15-in-switzerland/
  • Video An Interview with Adam Ondra

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    UK ClimbingU
    During a recent trip to the UK, we caught up with none other than Adam Ondra to discuss his past, present and future. We touch upon his early days when he climbed 9a at age 13, his reflections on his unrepeated route Silence (9c), his emotions after his Olympic experience, and what makes him so special. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781383
  • David Fitzgerald establishes 'Yosemite's Hardest Boulder'

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    UK ClimbingU
    David Fitzgerald has made the first ascent of the low start to Randy Puro's classic Yosemite testpiece, The Shield, 8A/V11. He has named the low start Last Line of Defense, and has proposed a grade of 8C+/V16. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781376
  • Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 4)

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    AlpineSavvyA
    Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-4
  • Yosemite Gets a New Hardest Boulder

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    GrippedG
    A few weeks ago, David Fitzgerald made the first ascent of Last Line of Defense V16 The post Yosemite Gets a New Hardest Boulder appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/yosemite-gets-a-new-hardest-boulder/
  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription