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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • Event Horizon Is Canada’s First V16

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    GrippedG
    Located in Squamish, Andy Lamb made the first ascent of the problem The post Event Horizon Is Canada’s First V16 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/event-horizon-is-canadas-first-v16/
  • 2025 American Alpine Club Gala Awards

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Discover their incredible stories, then join us for the 2025 American Alpine Club Gala to hear more! Brooke Raboutou grew up in Boulder, CO, where she began climbing at age two. At 11, Raboutou sent Welcome to Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain, becoming the youngest person to climb the route. From 2020 to 2022, Raboutou pushed bouldering grades, sending Muscle Car (V14), The Atomator (V13), The Shining (V12/13), The Wheel of Chaos (V13), Doppelgänger Poltergeist (V13), Jade (V14), Euro Trash (V12/8a+), Low Low (V13/8b) Trieste (V14), Heritage (V13), La Proue (V13), Lur (V14), Evil Backwards (V13). Raboutou was the first American to qualify for the Olympics, and during the Tokyo Olympics in 2021, she finished 5th.  In October 2023, Raboutou sent Box Therapy in Rocky Mountain National Park and promptly downgraded it from V16 to V15. In 2024, Raboutou won silver in the combined bouldering and lead competition at the Paris Olympics, becoming the first American woman to win an Olympic medal in climbing. In April 2025, Raboutou sent Excalibur (5.15c), becoming the first woman to send the grade.  Outdoor Alliance is a nonprofit coalition of national advocacy organizations that includes American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, the Mountaineers, the American Alpine Club, the Mazamas, the Colorado Mountain Club, and the Surfrider Foundation. For more than ten years, Outdoor Alliance has united the human-powered outdoor recreation community to achieve lasting conservation victories. Its work has helped to permanently protect 40 million acres of public land, secure $5.1 billion in funding for the outdoors, and convert more than 100,000 outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor advocates. Adam Cramer will be accepting the award on behalf of Outdoor Alliance. He is the founding Executive Director and present CEO of Outdoor Alliance. During his time as CEO, Adam has brought new sensibilities to conservation work that have resulted in hundreds of thousands more acres of protected landscapes, improved management for outdoor recreation, and thousands of outdoor enthusiasts awakened to conservation and advocacy work. He is an avid whitewater kayaker and mountain biker, but is always on the lookout for a good skatepark.  For 52 years, Jack Tackle has focused on alpine climbing, particularly first ascents, in the Himalayas, South America, and Alaska. Jack Tackle is best known for his climbing in Alaska. He has done 35 separate trips, combining both attempts and successes since 1976, and completed 17 significant first ascents in Alaska’s various ranges. Tackle is a past Board member of the AAC (nine years) and served as Treasurer of the AAC from 2009-2012. He has been a member of the AAC since 1978. He presently serves on the Pinnacle and Grand Teton Climber Ranch committees and is the chairman of the AAC Cutting Edge Grant committee. For 30 years, Tackle was an independent sales rep for outdoor brands, including Patagonia, Black Diamond Equipment, and Vasque Footwear. In addition, Tackle guided for Exum Mountain Guides in the Tetons for 40 years, from 1982 to 2022. Michael Wejchert began climbing as a scared ten-year-old in a swami belt. Now a scared thirty-nine-year-old, rock and ice climbing remain his overriding passion. He began writing about climbing in high school and hasn't stopped. In 2013, he won the Waterman Fund Essay Contest for a piece called Epigoni, Revisited, about a failed attempt to climb Mount Deborah in the Hayes Range of Alaska. His first book, Hidden Mountains, won a National Outdoor Book Award in 2023. His essays and features have appeared in virtually every North American climbing magazine and major media outlets: Alpinist, Ascent, Rock & Ice, Appalachia, and the New York Times, to name a few. He is a proud contributing editor at the new Summit Journal. He lives just down the road from Cathedral Ledge, New England's finest trad cliff. As an undersized kid who wanted to be a cowboy, Kelly Cordes never dreamed that climbing would define his life. But he stumbled upon an obsession that took him to places of unimaginable beauty and infused his world with meaning. He established challenging alpine routes in Alaska, Peru, Patagonia, and Pakista... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/7/9/2025-american-alpine-club-gala-awards
  • First-Ever Lead World Cup in Madrid This Weekend

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    GrippedG
    Here's who's competing and how you can livestream the event on Friday and Saturday The post First-Ever Lead World Cup in Madrid This Weekend appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/first-ever-lead-world-cup-in-madrid-this-weekend/
  • Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 6)

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    AlpineSavvyA
    Five bite sized, quick tips of best practices. In this post: 1) “boosting” a low anchor, 2) rope pull tip for a traversing rappel, 3) how a redirect increases anchor loading, 4) why you don't need an overhand knot on a tied loop anchor, and 5) how to set up a lower with a Grigri.  Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-6
  • Denali Climbing Season Concludes for 2025

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    GrippedG
    Nearly 1,000 climbers attempted North America's tallest peak this winter, with about 35 per cent reaching the summit The post Denali Climbing Season Concludes for 2025 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/denali-climbing-season-concludes-for-2025/
  • Hard Crack Climbing Boulders at Rocklands

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    GrippedG
    Enjoy a free hour-long film just released by the Wideboyz The post Hard Crack Climbing Boulders at Rocklands appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/hard-crack-climbing-boulders-at-rocklands/
  • Seventeen Times Alive by Dakota Walz

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    ClimbingZineC
    Screams are a colorful thing. Each one has its own distinct message. An anger, a joy, a pain. The nature of each rings clear somewhere deep in our instincts. From the sound alone, you can practically see the scrunched nose and raised upper lip of a shout delivered in loud fury. Yet slightly muffled as… https://climbingzine.com/seventeen-times-alive-by-dakota-walz/
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    climber-magazineC
    Chaehyun Seo and Sorato Anraku took the top spots in the Chamonix Lead World Cup over the weekend whilst Erin McNeice podiumed with a bronze. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/seo-and-anraku-take-gold-at-chamonix-mcneice-podiums-again-with-bronze/
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/access-agreement-secured-for-little-brushy-climbing-area-in-tennessee
  • New Canadian Speed Climbing Record

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    GrippedG
    Ethan Flynn Pitcher has beaten his old record at the recent Chamonix World Cup The post New Canadian Speed Climbing Record appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-canadian-speed-climbing-record/
  • Nina Arthaud Topping a Swiss V14

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    GrippedG
    Compass North was the French climber's first of the grade The post Nina Arthaud Topping a Swiss V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/nina-arthaud-topping-a-swiss-v14/
  • Climber Dies on Mountain in Montana

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    GrippedG
    Search and rescue crews responded after getting a call from other climbers in the group The post Climber Dies on Mountain in Montana appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climber-dies-on-mountain-in-montana/
  • New 14-Pitch 5.10b on Yak Peak in B.C.

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    GrippedG
    Wind Walker has several 5.8 and 5.10 pitches that follow slabs and splitter cracks The post New 14-Pitch 5.10b on Yak Peak in B.C. appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-14-pitch-5-10b-on-yak-peak-in-b-c/
  • Climber Sends Hard Frankenjura Test-Pieces

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    GrippedG
    Josef Šindel climbed Action Directe 5.14d and Wallstreet 5.14c over the weekend The post Climber Sends Hard Frankenjura Test-Pieces appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climber-sends-hard-frankenjura-test-pieces/
  • Big Names Win 2025 Chamonix World Cup

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    GrippedG
    Japan and South Korea finished the exciting event with the gold medals The post Big Names Win 2025 Chamonix World Cup appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/big-names-win-2025-chamonix-world-cup/
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    ClimbingZineC
    In Memory of Towyn Williams (1926 – 2016) I associate much of my childhood with a little white farmhouse in the Welsh countryside. My roots are firmly planted there. Planted between the rows of strawberries and the tunnels of raspberry bushes. by Rhiannon Williams note: this piece is an excerpt from The Climbing Zine Book,… https://climbingzine.com/venture-backward-inward-upward-rhiannon-williams/
  • Zine Thing at the Gravity Lab Climbing Gym, July 25th

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    ClimbingZineC
    The next “Zine Thing” will be on Friday July 25th at the Gravity Lab climbing gym in Durango, Colorado. As always this is a free event featuring stories, poetry, film, and a slideshow. If you’ve got something to share please send a message to luke@climbingzine.com. Word. https://climbingzine.com/zine-thing-at-the-gravity-lab-climbing-gym-july-25th/
  • Dirtbag Paradise by Amber Roepke (a poem)

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    ClimbingZineC
    It’s your mom’s minivan pimped out And only seats two Because if it wasn’t hard enough to live in a van It’s way harder to hook up in one   This poem is published in The Climbing Zine Book 2, now available. Banner photo by: Kristen Hughes   With a full set of seats in… https://climbingzine.com/dirtbag-paradise-amber-roepke-poem/
  • Epic Rescue on Broad Peak of Mountaineer

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    GrippedG
    A multi-day rescue has saved the life of a Polish climber who had his leg broken The post Epic Rescue on Broad Peak of Mountaineer appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/uncategorized/epic-rescue-on-broad-peak-of-mountaineer/
  • 10 Tips to Improve Your Clipping

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    GrippedG
    A tricky or scary clip can ruin a send. You're missing out if you aren’t continuing to hone this crucial skill The post 10 Tips to Improve Your Clipping appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/10-tips-to-improve-your-clipping/