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The ultra-technical problem was the Valley's first of the grade
The post Carlo Traversi Climbing The Dark Side V16 in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
The ultra-technical problem was the Valley's first of the grade
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
I won’t say that I’m afraid of heights, but to be standing on the edge of anything looking down more than 50 feet or so gives me a funny feeling in the abdomen from just below the sternum all the way down to where the feeling translates into a moderate concern about bladder control. It’s…
I won’t say that I’m afraid of heights, but to be standing on the edge of anything looking down more than 50 feet or so gives me a funny feeling in the abdomen…
The Climbing Zine (climbingzine.com)
In this episode we have Allyson Gunsallus on the podcast to talk about an under-discussed part of the climbing community—the joys and struggles of parenting and climbing. Allyson recently produced Hand Holds, an educational film series now free to watch on Youtube, which cover a range of topics, from shifting identities, logistical challenges, and new relationships to risk as a parent and climber. After all, a toddler waddling around at the crag isn’t just a cute climbing mascot—they can also be a seismic shift in a new parent’s relationship to climbing. The series features Becca and Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Chris Kalous and Steph Bergner, Kris Hampton, Jess and Jon Glassberg, Majka Burhardt, and Anna and Eddie Taylor. Hand Holds gets into the real (and messy) beta of negotiating life through climbing and parenting, and this episode gets a sneak peak of Allyson’s philosophies and personal experience behind the project.
Episode Resources
Watch the Hand Holds Series on YouTube
Learn More About the Film Project
Learn More about Allyson Gunsallus
In this episode we have Allyson Gunsallus on the podcast to talk about an under-discussed part of the climbing community—the joys and struggles of parenting and climbing. Allyson recently produced Hand Holds , an educational film series now free to watch on Youtube, which cover a range of topics,
American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)
After dabbing on one ascent, he went back and sent the problem in perfect style the next session
The post Sungsu Lee Sends Burden of Dreams V17, Arguably Twice appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
After dabbing on one ascent, he went back and sent the problem in perfect style the next session
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
On May 21st, 2025, the U.S. House of Representatives passed the budget reconciliation bill—without the public land sell-off provision—after Congressman Ryan Zinke and Speaker Mike Johnson introduced a manager’s amendment to strike the language, following overwhelming public opposition from climbers ...
On May 21st, 2025, the U.S. House of Representatives passed the budget reconciliation bill—without the public land sell-off provision—after Congressman Ryan Zinke and Speaker Mike Johnson introduced a manager’s amendment to strike the language, following overwhelming public opposition from climbers and public land advocates.
Access Fund (www.accessfund.org)
In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and back to the valley floor to complete the Enduro Traverse—an unprecedented ski mountaineering adventure.
Adam’s story about the Enduro will be in AAJ 2025. We’re offering a condensed version here. You can read an extended story—replete with Adam’s history of Teton link-ups—at the AAJ website.
In 1963, John Evans, Richard Long, and Allen Steck completed the Grand Traverse, a summertime traverse of ten Teton Range summits, from Nez Perce to Teewinot (the opposite direction of how this now-classic traverse is usually done today). In the 1965 AAJ, Steck wrote, “Any route or time of day is acceptable, however, only be sure to finish within 24 hours.” For the Enduro ski traverse of the Tetons that I envisioned, sub-24 hours was our sole metric, as Steck had laid it out for us.
For some years, I’ve been exploring Teton link-ups on skis with various partners, culminating with a day of skiing the Grand Teton, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot Mountain by some of their most technical routes. Sam Hennessey, Brendan O’Neill, and I pulled off this fine adventure in March 2023.
To me it seemed logical to bring all of our experiences together in a much longer traverse—to see how far we could go in under 24 hours. In the Alaska Range, I have enjoyed moving under the midnight sun for 24, 30, hell, even 64 hours—why not see how this would work back home? It gets darker in Wyoming in the spring than in Alaska, but we have headlamps.
The idea of the Enduro Traverse was to enchain the Teton skyline from Buck Mountain in the south to Teewinot, crossing over Mt. Wister, South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, and Mt. Owen along the way.
At 6 p.m. on April 22, with the day’s heat still in the air, Michael Gardner, Brendan O’Neill, and I started skinning up Death Canyon in wet, sloppy snow. Under an endless sunset, we climbed the east ridge of Buck Mountain (11,938’) and clicked in on top for our first descent at 9:15 p.m. (A full moon allowed us to complete all the climbs sans headlamps, but we did use the lamps for our descents.) We skied down Buck’s hyper-classic east face and used a piece of terrain called the Buckshot to drop into the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon.
The next climb was the South Headwall of Mt. Wister (11,490’), which flows into the upper east ridge. We reached Wister’s summit at 10:53 p.m. This was the lowest peak in our traverse, yet it packed a punch. The northeast face offered up some proper steep skiing—it felt engaging via headlamp—and deposited the three of us in the North Fork of Avalanche Canyon.
Our next ascent took us up the South Teton’s Amora Vida Couloir (much more fun to descend than ascend), and here we encountered our least efficient travel of the day, with heinous breakable crust and soggy snow engulfing our entire legs. From the top of the South Teton (12,514’), the descent by the Northwest Chute was fast and uneventful.
Now in Garnet Canyon’s South Fork, we began our climb up the Middle Teton’s Southwest Couloir, where efficient cramponing put us on the summit rather quickly. The descent down the east face into the Middle Teton Glacier route was harrowing on the refrozen undulating snow left by skiers who had descended in the warm days before us. But we were not there for the ski quality, rather the continuous movement.
From the North Fork of Garnet Canyon, we made quick work of the Ford-Stettner route, topping out the Grand Teton (13,770’) at 6 a.m., 12 hours into our journey. The sun was beginning to rise above the horizon, and it felt great to embrace its warmth again.
With a long block of daylight ahead, the three of us were confident as we descended the Ford-Stettner, with some thoughtful downclimbing in the Chevy Couloir, which is normally rappelled. (To save weight, we did not carry a rope and chose lines that would go without one.) We made our way into the Dike Snowfield an...
In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and
American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)
An easy-to-use and perfectly sized carabiner for cragging and multi-pitches
The post The Metolius Element II Screw Lock Carabiner appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
An easy-to-use and perfectly sized carabiner for cragging and multi-pitches
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
The international slackline community is mourning the death of a 22-year-old who died in an accident over the weekend
The post Canadian Highliner Dies in Fall Near Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
The international slackline community is mourning the death of a 22-year-old who died in an accident over the weekend
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
Six months after Babsi Zangerl made the historic first flash ascent of El Capitan, William Moss has made the second flash ascent of El Capitan, also of Freerider, 5.13a, but this time in just a single day.
Freerider, Salathe and The Nose all had noteworthy ascents over the past few weeks
The post History Made on Yosemite’s El Capitan appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Freerider, Salathe and The Nose all had noteworthy ascents over the past few weeks
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
Pietro Vidi has made the second free ascent of Lurking Fear, 5.13c, El Capitan, twenty-five years after it was first freed by Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden, in 200.
Instead of taking weeks to climb Everest, these climbers just summited five days after leaving home
The post Climbers Using Xenon Gas Summit Everest appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Instead of taking weeks to climb Everest, these climbers just summited five days after leaving home
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
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