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  • The Man Who Shaped Europe’s Climbing Culture

    Videos climbing
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9DPYo0XlDk
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    GrippedG
    Megos climbed both the stand and low versions of the bloc in a single session The post Alex Megos Sends an Oriane Bertone V14 in Fontainebleau appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-sends-an-oriane-bertone-v14-in-fontainebleau/
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    UK ClimbingU
    This week's Friday Night Video follows Adam Ondra on his mission to climb Soudain Seul (Font 9A), in Fontainebleau, France. He made the fourth ascent of the Simon Lorenzi problem back in February, and it was also his first at the grade. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779586
  • Alpine retreat anchors - Part 1

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig so you can do it under potential stress. Learn the principles here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/alpine-retreat-anchors-part-1
  • Hard New 16-Pitch Alpine Route in Alps

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The 500-metre climb took three days with the first ascent team climbing pitches in the M8 range The post Hard New 16-Pitch Alpine Route in Alps appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/hard-new-16-pitch-alpine-route-near-chamonix/
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    ClimbingZineC
    On the ledge that night, I felt at home and at ease. We were on the rock of our dreams. And Dave was the perfect partner. He was better at figuring out the logistics of hauling and jugging. Dave was the ying to my yang. Plus, we’d struck a deal: I would lead the infamous… https://climbingzine.com/terror-on-hollow-flake-an-excerpt-from-american-climber-by-luke-mehall/
  • 1 Votes
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    devnullD
    Last weekend I took a couple friends to the local crag for their first time out. Since I was the only one able to clean, others led and set the anchor, but on occasion if the leader were unable to reach the anchors, I would set the anchor and belayed the others up from the top using a grigri. That worked pretty well, though I'm aware that Petzl doesn't recommend using the grigri in such a manner (a redirected belay is preferred.) I did notice that the DMM Pivot set up in guide/auto-blocking mode had a dedicated method for lowering — using a second biner to adjust the angle of the device. Are there concerns with doing so for lowering a second climber all the way to the ground? Whenever lowering is mentioned, it's always in the context is lowering the second "a few feet" or so.
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    climbingC
    https://www.climbing.com/news/pakistan-big-wall-soloed/