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Alex Megos Makes Third Ascent of Adam Ondra’s Move 5.15b/c

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  • Gogarth Bolting Drama on BBC Radio 4

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    UK ClimbingU
    A drama exploring traditional climbing ethics on the sea cliffs of Gogarth, North Wales aired on BBC Radio 4 yesterday. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777546
  • Fri Night Vid 100 Stars at Stanage

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    UK ClimbingU
    100 Stars at Stanage follows two climbers, Harry and Richard, as they take on a unique challenge at Stanage Edge: climbing 100 stars in a single day, all in support of Climbers Against Cancer (CAC). The film explores the physical and emotional journey of these climbers, delving into themes of friendship and ageing. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777396
  • Soaked rope tested

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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_MyEXUOh34
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    foon@mastodon.socialF
    Onsight 12a lead, two onsight 12b top ropes, and got my 12d top rope project down to one take this morning. I’m feeling so good about my #climbing lately.
  • 0 Votes
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    GrippedG
    She recently made some solid links on Adam Ondra's unrepeated Terranova V16 The post Jana Švecová Making Progress on One of the World’s Hardest Boulders appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jana-svecova-making-progress-on-one-of-the-worlds-hardest-boulders/
  • New Moderate Mixed Route Above Chamonix

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    GrippedG
    Climbers found good conditions on a new line in the Mont Blanc massif The post New Moderate Mixed Route Above Chamonix appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/uncategorized/new-moderate-mixed-route-above-chamonix/
  • Are stick clips aid?

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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mChzpVZQYjA
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]