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Speed finals | Villars 2024

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2 Sept 2024, 02:53

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    Merging the worlds of mountain running and approach, the Vertex Speed in new in Spring 2025 The post A Look at the New Arc’teryx Vertex Speed Shoe appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gear/a-look-at-the-new-arcteryx-vertex-speed-shoe/
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    Is 10 minutes enough time to recover between hard flash attenpts? Probably not, but oh, well! This one was just too tempting, and I was hoping the anecdotal evidence of it being easier wasn't wrong. Was it? Let's find out... Send or not?Spoiler alert (or is it?): Thanks to Jon Koplin for keeping me alive with a solid catch!#Climbing #LeadClimbing #IndoorClimbing #ClimbingGym #ClimbingIsMyPassion #Whipper
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    The 500-metre climb took three days with the first ascent team climbing pitches in the M8 range The post Hard New 16-Pitch Alpine Route in Alps appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/hard-new-16-pitch-alpine-route-near-chamonix/
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    Think back over your climbing career. I bet you’ll find a climb—or two—that define you. These won’t be your hardest sends necessarily. They will be the beautiful ones, the scary ones, the ones that came into your life at just the right time. The ones that tested you, that possessed you, that shaped your character… https://climbingzine.com/texas-tower-redux-by-josh-smith/
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    Make good decisions when planning your weekend objective as the backcountry north and south of Squamish will be sketchy The post Avalanche Hazard Goes to High on West Coast appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/avalanche-hazard-goes-to-high-on-west-coast/
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    All-women teams have been exceptionally active around the world this year. This month we’re highlighting two of them: a Slovenian women’s expedition to Zanskar, India, and an Italian pair in the Pamir Alai of Kyrygzstan. Two other highly ambitious expeditions in 2024 involved American women: Chantel Astorga, supported by an AAC Cutting Edge Grant, nearly completed a new route up Shivling in India with Fanny Schmutz; and Michelle Dvorak, armed with a McNeill-Nott Grant, got high on the unclimbed southeast buttress of Chaukhamba III, also in India, with Fay Manners, before a rockfall incident forced them down. Just this month, Babsi Zangerl made her extraordinary flash of an El Cap free route. Plenty more women’s climbs will appear in the 2025 AAJ: See the gallery above for a little preview! Our all-female expedition to Zanskar, India, was comprised of Ana Baumgartner, Urša Kešar, Patricija Verdev, and me (all from Slovenia). On August 26, we left the road with 18 porters to climb in the Lalung Valley. Our main goal was Lalung I and neighboring peaks. The day after our arrival at base camp, we explored higher up the valley. It took an entire day to make a 20-kilometer round trip on moraine and glacial terrain, and, as the weather was poor, we didn’t see much of the higher peaks. On August 31, Patricija and I climbed a new route on a granite north-northwest face not far from base camp. This buttress, which starts at around 4,200 meters, lies on the south side of the valley and rises to Peak 5,346m. One route had been climbed previously near the center of this face, by Indians Korak Sanyal and Spandan Sanyal (see AAJ 2018). Our new route, Connection (VI-), took 15 hours and involved around 1,400 meters of climbing. Before moving up to an advanced base camp, we had a nighttime visit from a bear. It was an unpleasant encounter, with the animal sniffing around our tents for food. All four climbers were happy to relocate to a bear-free advanced base at 4,800 meters. Urša had difficulties with the altitude, however, so after a couple of days she and Ana returned to base camp, where they and our cooks and liaison officer had to deal with a full-on bear saga. After more than 10 nighttime bear visits, resulting in Patricija’s tent being ripped, heaps of food stolen, and the toilet tent demolished, they managed to scare off the bears with fire and enjoy a few peaceful nights. During this period, Urša and Ana climbed two more new routes on the north-northwest face of Peak 5,332m, finishing on the northwest ridge. Meanwhile, on September 9, Patricija and I left advanced base for the east ridge of unclimbed Lalung I (6,243m), camping a little way above the start. We’d had a forecast for a good weather window, but a snowstorm on the 10th forced us to set up tent in the middle of the day and sit out the bad weather. The storm lasted all the next day, but the 12th dawned clear and we climbed late into the night. Day five on the ridge required even more determination, and it wasn’t until 1:30 a.m. that we settled down for a rest, having climbed the final difficult mixed pitches. In a moment of carelessness brought on by fatigue, we lost our tent poles to the wind and slept in the open in bivouac sacks. The next morning was foggy, making it hard to navigate, but after some snow slopes, we reached the summit at 9 a.m. on the 14th. We proceeded with a long descent along the west ridge and then five rappels on the north face to reach the glacier at 6:30 p.m. It took another eight hours to reach advanced base. Next day, we descended to base camp. Just before stepping off the moraine, we saw three silhouettes, Ana, Urša, and Freni, who brought smiles to our tired faces. We named our route Here Comes the Sun (M6+ AI5+, with around 2,000 meters of climbing). — Anja Petek, Slovenia Camilla Reggio and I met on the Eagle Team of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) and immediately became friends, connected by our huge passion for the mountains. We decided to plan our first expedition together and ended up in Kyrgyzstan, with the intent of climbing on the incredible granite of the Ak-su Valley in the Pamir Alai mountains. We hoped to open a new route.  Walking up and down the valley in search of possible lines, we were impressed by the 500m south face of Pik 3,850m (a.k.a. the south buttress of Pik Slesova). The following morning, August 12, we brought a... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/11/17/the-line-a-great-year-for-women-in-the-mountains
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    The 34-year-old Slovakian alpinist fell into a crevasse after his rappel anchor broke. https://www.climbing.com/news/ondrej-huserka-dies-first-ascent-himalayan-mountain/
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    The annual event will take place in the Canadian Rockies this fall The post The 2024 Banff Summit of Excellence Recipients Announced appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-2024-banff-summit-of-excellence-recipients-announced/