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Newsflash West Ridge of Gasherbrum 3 receives first ascent

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    The ascent follows her 5.14d redpoint and 5.14a and 5.14b onsights in Oliana The post Laura Rogora Repeats New 5.14d in Arco appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/laura-rogora-repeats-new-5-14d-in-arco/
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    As I write these lines, five days after returning to the Yosemite Valley, the soreness, the pain in my hands and feet are still very much present. I must say that for the past five days, I have been savoring these pains, which bear witness to the great battle fought on the wall for two weeks. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=778591
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    Boulder Santa coming to a #climbing gym near you. So far I haven’t found a single chimney
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    After suffering a multitude of injuries—including to his head, chest, and back—and with medical bills piling up, Kevin Cooper could use financial help from the climbing community The post Alpinist Kevin Cooper Injured in Scaffolding Fall: How You Can Help appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/alpinist-kevin-cooper-injured-in-scaffolding-fall-how-you-can-help/
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    #climbing auto-belay devices tested, courtesy of HowNOT2.Amazed with that centrifugal brake design. It's really clever, simple and effective. Centrifugal clutches on motorbikes operate pretty much with the exact same principle using brake pad materials and rotation speed. I've always wondered how some of those auto-belay things worked internally.I also think that centrifugal design is more serviceable if needed.https://youtu.be/Z97RkAapbDE?si=awOOGQlh4jtaPY7z
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8513pIsHxw
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    It’s prime season for climbing in the high peaks of the western United States, so we’re sharing six brand-new mountain routes from six states around the West. AAC Members: Get a Sneak Preview of the AAJ right now! AAC members can now download a PDF of the complete 2024 AAJ. Log in at your member profile and click the Publications tab to download your sneak preview. Physical copies of the 2024 AAJ will start going into the mail next month. Nathan Hadley and friends spent more than 25 days establishing and free climbing Bluebell (2,000’, 5.13-), the first free route up the North Norwegian Buttress of Mt. Index. About one-third of the bolt-protected route’s 21pitches are overhanging. Hadley believes it’s one of the steepest long free climbs in North America (“Imagine two of Yosemite’s Leaning Towers, with sections of slab before, in between, and after.”) Hadley’s AAJ report describes the arduous effort to establish the climb and also offers a touching tribute to one of his partners on the route: Michal Rynkiewicz, who died in a rappelling accident soon after this climb was completed. The East Buttress of Aiguille Extra, a 14,048-foot satellite of Mt. Whitney, was first climbed in 1978 with a bit of aid. Forty-five years later, James Holland and Cam Smith freed the 10-pitch route at 5.10+, adding a three-pitch direct start. In AAJ 2024, Smith writes, “James and I hope the free version of the East Buttress (1,230’, IV 5.10+) will encourage others to check out [Aiguille Extra], an unsung gem of the Eastern Sierra.” A rare new route up the beautiful Elephant’s Perch was completed in September by Greg Rickenbacker and Benj Wollant. Takin’ ’Er By the Tusks (625’, 5.12a R A3) combines challenging aid and stout free climbing on the southeast face of the granite formation. A bolting ban in Sawtooth National Forest ensured plenty of exciting climbing. Wollant, who grew up in the nearby town of Stanley, wrote in his AAJ report that establishing a route on the Elephant’s Perch was “a longtime dream come true.” “Given that I’d never stepped foot into Glacier Gorge [in Rocky Mountain National Park], you might say my plan to rope-solo a new line up the 1,500’ northeast face of Chiefs Head (13,577’) was ambitious,” writes Nathan Brown in AAJ 2024. But that’s what he did. Brown, a prolific new-router who earned his ground-up chops in North Carolina before moving to Colorado, spent two summers establishing Spirit Animal (10 pitches, 5.11), all alone, on the remote and steep Chiefs Head wall. Brown finished work on the route last September, but had not yet redpointed the full route in a continuous ascent. Just this month, he made the trek into Glacier Gorge yet again and rope-soloed the route completely free, with a bivouac in the middle. Tetons guide Michael Abbey had long imagined a more direct route up the north ridge of Mt. Owen, hewing closer to the ridgeline than the original North Ridge Route (Clayton-Emerson, 1951), which slants in from the left. It took a couple of attempts, but in 2023 he and Karen Kovaka completed Directissima (V 5.10) over two days in August. In his AAJ report, Abbey notes that another North Ridge Direct was climbed in 2001, but the key pitches of the new line were most likely unclimbed before last summer. Until 2023, the Bear’s Face had only one known full-length route: Ursus Horribilis, established in 1998 by Andrew McLean and the late Alex Lowe. Last summer, Chantel Astorga, Matt Cornell, and Jackson Marvell, along with photographer Austin Schmitz who was shooting images of The North Face team members, completed a line started by Cornell, Marvell, and Justin Willis three years earlier. Ménage Trout has 13 pitches and went at 5.10+ R A2+. Astorga wrote in https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/7/18/the-line-july-2024
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU5Ymrz7kLQ