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Michaela Kiersch Tops a Rocklands V14

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    GrippedG
    Phillar of Experience climbs 24 pitches of cracks and ridge sections up a striking peak The post New 1,900-Metre Rock Climb on Kyrgyzstan Alpine Pillar appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/uncategorized/new-1900-metre-rock-climb-on-kyrgyzstan-alpine-pillar/
  • Squeak your boots for this one...

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  • Jules Marchaland Achieves Second-Ever V15 Flash

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    GrippedG
    Yesterday, the French climber became the second climber in history to flash V15 The post Jules Marchaland Achieves Second-Ever V15 Flash appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jules-marchaland-achieves-second-ever-v15-flash/
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  • Bayes Wilder, 13, Climbs 5.14c in Kentucky

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    GrippedG
    He climbed 11 5.13s and four 5.14s during a recent trip to Red River Gorge The post Bayes Wilder, 13, Climbs 5.14c in Kentucky appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/bayes-wilder-13-climbs-5-14c-in-kentucky/
  • Experienced Alpinists Rescued in Himalaya

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    GrippedG
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • 2 vs 3 wraps

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    HowNOT2H
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