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Weekend Whipper: Near Miss Convinces Climber to Buy a Helmet

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  • 4 Votes
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    devnullD
    @bean Likewise! The local route devs in my area all send their guidebooks up to Rakkup, whose app is... erm... passable... at best. I'd love to be able to find and tick climbs directly from my phone at the crag.
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  • this looks at least 50% safe!

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  • Alex Megos climbs Move, 9b/+

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  • Jorge Díaz-Rullo Climbs the World’s First 5.15c

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  • New Climbing Film on Sasha DiGiulian

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  • Isles of Wonder Sit, 8C+, receives third ascent

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  • 0 Votes
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    S
    Sounds like you need another set of shoes. Not as a replacement, but as your all-rounder. And it sounds like the Shamans are your high grade shoe you whip out when you want to work something hard. You said you were quite new to climbing, so aggressive shoes may be physically too much to have on all the time at the moment. But they will rapidly teach you new techniques and improve your climbing in the beginning because they allow a lot more. I’d definitely recommend the Red Chili Voltages if you can try them on first to confirm. I had a friend rave about them, so I tried them on, and holy shit… A fantastic comfortable all-rounder for bouldering in and outdoors. Quite a few of my crew have converted and now preach the same. I thought Solutions were my fav bouldering shoe until I tried the Skwamas and now the Skwamas only come out for really hard grade. If you’re really enjoying slab, you will definitely hurt your toes much more than normal climbing. No way around that. You need those toes scrunched up in the toe box so you can do precise placements on tiny spots—theres no comfy option. My partner says, “Climbing is dancing with gravity and slab is the ballet.” It’s her preferred style and she switches between Shamans for boulder and Katanas for lead or easy boulder. If you can only afford one more pair and will stick to only bouldering, I’d avoid laces and get a strap shoe that suits your foot instead. Laces are very annoying bouldering. Really, you should aim for laces if you’ll also be using them on single pitches where a 5min climb can turn into 20 after tying in, leading, anchoring, cleaning, and rappelling, thankful you’re not wearing your top-end binding boulder shoes. For the taping trick—marbles is another good one shoved in with packaging in the shoe—just Google “climbing shoe hotspots” and you’ll get good info