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The Epic First Ascent of a 2,500-Metre Alpine Wall on Canada’s Tallest Mountain

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  • A Tribute to Chuck Fleischman

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    We are sad to share that beloved AAC community member Charles (Chuck) Fleischman passed away in November of 2025. Chuck was a devoted member of the AAC board of directors from 2013 to 2019, and was truly a person who lived out loud.  Chuck was a Harvard graduate who cofounded Digene Corporation, a molecular diagnostics company. Chuck’s work with Digene, as President, CFO, and director, resulted in the first FDA-approved test to detect high-risk HPV before it caused cervical cancer.  When he semi-retired, he threw himself into supporting other meaningful work, including his board term at the AAC. With Jackson Hole as their home, Chuck and his wife Lisa wanted to make a difference in their community. So their first step, beyond membership, was giving back to the local AAC community by supporting the introduction of solar panels on Cabin 2 at the AAC’s Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch.   As an AAC board member, Chuck was the kind to always be outspoken and always push for greatness. He was very mission driven, always pursued excellence, and held the AAC to those same standards. Phil Powers, past AAC Executive Director, remembers his tough questions, but offered always with an upbeat demeanor, as well as a gregarious laugh.   Chuck’s commitment to the AAC was grounded in his love of the mountains and wilderness. He would ski as many days as the weather gods would allow, including more than 80 days each season, even as he was fighting off cancer. He regularly went on big ski adventures with partners like Jimmy Chin and Kit DeLauriers. Chuck was also a river rat and a committed climber, having summited El Cap, gone on expedition to K2, and floated the Grand Canyon many times.  Chuck lived larger than life, and his impact on the AAC will be felt for years to come. Our thoughts are with Chuck’s family as they process his passing.  “Chuck has been a career mentor but also a climbing and adventure mentor for me. He taught me not only about how to be a professional, and how to take my experience with being on the board of the Bay Area Climbers Coalition and build it into my role as an AAC board member, but he also taught me how to look for big objectives in the mountains. Being on the AAC BOD was probably the biggest summit I could have tried to climb. But he also inspired me to pursue Shasta, Whitney, and other big objectives. It was all directly a benefit of his mentorship.” —Jen Bruursema, former AAC board member “If I was going on a hike with Chuck, I knew it was going to be A) a great day, and B) there were going to be some hard questions to tackle along the way. I knew it meant he really just cared about the Club. He wasn’t going to let a day go by without pushing us forward.” —Phil Powers, former Executive Director of the American Alpine Club https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/12/10/a-tribute-to-chuck-fleischman
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    BrokenFlowsB
    Bloc 33/40 used in the qualifier’s round for a recent competition. #climbing
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    ClimbingZineC
    “If you just stop for a second, I can show you there’s no road out there!” Ben said. “I know there’s a road there; we drove it a couple years ago!” I fired back. We hadn’t even started an ordeal that would surely drive us to our wits’ ends, and we were already lost and… https://climbingzine.com/pain-perseverance-linking-sixteen-towers-day/
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    climber-magazineC
    Jules Marchaland has successfully flashed Power of Now Direct (Font 8C), a line opened by Simon Lorenzi in Switzerland in July 2022. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/jules-marchaland-becomes-second-climber-to-flash-font-8c/
  • Need a stronger anchor? Try a basket hitch

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Want to boost the strength of your rigging? Simply doubling the strands into a basket hitch can dramatically increase the strength, which could be helpful in some situations. See the test results here. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/need-a-stronger-anchor-try-a-basket-hitch
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    NebukadnezaN
    Aaaaand another reaaally nice session. Met cool people, had a lot of fun, succeeded in two "5"s, despite the knee. And what´s more: I managed my first running-start route! The red you see here is running from the right, and jumping two times, then grabbing the start hold. I actually managed to top it! WOo fucking hoo!#bouldering #boulder #climbing #sport
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    GrippedG
    A film crew followed the two veteran big wall climbers around on some test-piece gear line and The Nose The post Alex Honnold in Yosemite With Connor Herson, 5.13d Trad Send appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/alex-honnold-in-yosemite-with-connor-herson-5-13d-trad-send/
  • Mejdi Schalck Climbing Dreamcatcher 5.14d

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The route was one of many hard sends for the visiting French climber during a short Squamish trip The post Mejdi Schalck Climbing Dreamcatcher 5.14d appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/mejdi-schalck-climbing-dreamcatcher-5-14d/