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Yosemite Sees a Late-Season Push on Hard Routes

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    Simon Lorenzi delivers in the USA by sending the boulder problem, Shaolin (Font 9A/V17), located at Red Rocks, Nevada, USA. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/simon-lorenzi-makes-fourth-ascent-of-shaolin-font-9a-v17/
  • Cameron Hörst Climbs Lion’s Share 5.14d

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    Lion's Share has been repeated a handful of times this year The post Cameron Hörst Climbs Lion’s Share 5.14d appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/cameron-horst-climbs-lions-share-5-14d/
  • A Tribute to Virginia Boucher

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    American Alpine ClubA
    It is with great appreciation that the American Alpine Club honors and celebrates the life of Virginia (Ginnie) Boucher—an unsung hero in the Club’s history.  Virginia Boucher was the chair for the AAC Library Committee for a decade, and a driving force in introducing best practices to the AAC Library from the 1990s onward—including online access to the AAC’s library catalog, expansion of library staff, and implementing interlibrary loans in this highly niche space of mountaineering libraries and literature. Boucher was also instrumental in the physical move of the AAC Library from the AAC’s original Clubhouse in New York to its current location among the mountains of Golden, Colorado.  Boucher received the 2005 Angelo Heilprin Citation from the AAC for exemplary service to the Club, thanks to her transformational leadership at the AAC Library. Not only did her leadership bring the full force of library science to bear on this now world-renowned library and archive, but she also helped steward the acquisition of many pieces of the John M. Boyle Himalayan Collection and the Nicholas B. Clinch Collection, two keystone collections in the AAC’s current holdings.  In the notes announcing her award of the Heilprin Citation, the Award Committee shares some tidbits that suggest that Boucher wasn’t just the bookish type—she also had a flair for adventure. The committee notes that she and her husband, Stanley Boucher–a lifetime member of the AAC—were known for their unplanned night descents, and had a hilarious story about fighting off porcupines in the San Juans. She climbed the Grand Teton, Rainier, and many of Colorado’s mountains, and in her early years started off her climbing at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs.  Boucher’s extensive impact as a volunteer for the AAC’s Library Committee was fueled by her love for the mountains and her calling as a librarian. But by the time she was serving on the committee, she had left climbing behind her. In her autobiography, she writes of this part of herself: “I know a number of those who have ‘summited’ Mount Everest…those who are addicted to boulders, and a few such as myself who climb [only] in our memories.” But even so, climbing was a part of her history and identity, and after shepherding the AAC Library into the world-class institution it is today, she recalls how her volunteer involvement with the AAC Library brought her full-circle in her career: “I have drawn upon my special library experience…to give the best advice I can to this emerging and unique library… And finally, I have returned to my beginnings; I shelve books once again.” https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/a-tribute-to-virginia-boucher
  • Climbers Free 27-Pitch 5.13c in Yosemite

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    Lara Neumeier and Nemuel Fuerle have climbed Pineapple Express on El Capitan The post Climbers Free 27-Pitch 5.13c in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climbers-free-27-pitch-5-13c-in-yosemite/
  • Load transfer: The stirrup hoist

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    AlpineSavvyA
    Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the stirrup hoist. This may not be the most efficient method, but it's quick and simple. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/load-transfer-the-stirrup-hoist-zVn5Z
  • Olympic Champs Win Gold Again in Koper

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    GrippedG
    At the Lead World Cup in Slovenia, Janja Garnbret and Toby Roberts had flawless follow-ups to their Olympic performances The post Olympic Champs Win Gold Again in Koper appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/olympic-champs-win-gold-again-in-koper/
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    When we fail on large moves, most of us tend to think we just need to pull more and pull harder—and our training reflects this bias toward the upper body. https://www.climbing.com/skills/hips-climbing-training/
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    Climbing will be taking place in its second Summer Olympic Games at the end of this month, here's a breakdown The post Alex Honnold on What You Need to Know For Paris Olympics appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-honnold-on-what-you-need-to-know-for-paris-olympics/