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New 20-Pitch Climb on El Capitan in Yosemite

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    Lisa Lorenzin (she/her)L
    #makeShitMonday, #climbing edition...@mbroome and I haven't been climbing as much this year, partly due to schedules, partly my shoulder recovery. But we got out to Pilot Mountain last Sunday with a bunch of friends, and that reminded me that I've been meaning to replace my various tied cords - prusiks and foot loop for emergency rope ascent, spare footloop that doubles as my chalkbag belt, and autoblock for rappel backup - since they're all well over a decade old by now. They all *look* fine, but cord is cheap and nylon degrades over time, so...He picked up some cord for us back in October, so we dug out the hot knife, set up a fan in the garage, and got to work. I had to go in for a respirator mask almost immediately - something about burning plastic gives me an instant headache - but we got them all cut to length and re-tied pretty quickly. Not quite the same diameters as the original cord, but I gave the autoblock a test drive on Thursday and it worked just fine! @cannibal #rockclimbing #DIY
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    GrippedG
    Ondra used some funky beta to unlock Fantazija, a 5.15a power-endurance line in Slovenia The post Adam Ondra Using His Thigh as a Foothold in a 5.15a First Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/adam-ondra-using-his-thigh-as-a-foothold-in-a-5-15a-first-ascent/
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    ClimbingZineC
    “I am glad / For every thought that puts my memory / On my past time.” —Michelangelo   This piece is published in Volume 19 of The Climbing Zine. Banner photo of Layton Kor by Paul Mayrose   Nothing slowed Layton Kor. April, 1962, he drove to Yosemite with Jack Turner and wrote me a… https://climbingzine.com/not-for-me-to-wonder-why-an-early-ascent-of-the-naked-edge-with-layton-kor-by-pat-ament/
  • Fri Night Vid War and Peace - A Craig Dorys Epic

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    Originally graded E5, War and Peace, an epic 16-pitch traverse across Craig Dorys on loose and friable rock, was first climbed by Pat Littlejohn and Steve Sustad in 1997 over two-and-a-half days, with 20 hours of climbing time. The Lln Peninsula guidebook quotes Pat, saying: "It would go well in two days with a biv... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775150
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    climbingC
    It depends on your foot shape. https://www.climbing.com/gear/review-red-chili-clue-climbing-shoe-2024/
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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondras-change-p1-5-15a-gets-rare-repeat/
  • Would you trust this leash? #climbinggear #climbing

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmDghZFMC_M
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bky5a2WdnYY