Skip to content
OpenBeta Forum

OpenBeta Forums
  1. Home
  2. Categories
  3. General News
  4. The Yosemite Big Wall Permit System: Impact and Logistics

The Yosemite Big Wall Permit System: Impact and Logistics

General News
1 1 143 1
  • American Alpine ClubA

    Yosemite's iconic granite walls draw climbers, hikers, and outdoor recreationists from all over the world. Big wall climbers spend long days on El Cap and Half Dome above the valley floor, attempting free ascents or classic aid climbs. Due to the park's growing popularity, reservations and permit systems have been implemented. Climbing is no exception. 
    In 2021, Yosemite NPS began a two-year big wall permit system pilot program in hopes it would help climbing rangers understand patterns on the wall and minimize negative impacts on the landscape through education. In January 2023, the permit program became permanent, and now all climbers staying overnight on big walls are required to have a permit. 
    As with everything in the climbing community, there has been a lot of discourse surrounding this, as seen on Reddit and Mountain Project threads over the past couple of years. Climbers speculated: Would the rangers be enforcing a quota? Would these permits be available 24/7, or would reservations need to be made in advance? Would climbers have to use the dreaded recreation.gov?
    Through the permit system, big wall permits are free and available for climbers to self-register 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, near the El Capitan Bridge at a kiosk near the food lockers. There is no quota for routes. 
    In addition to timed permits, during peak hours (6 a.m. and 2 p.m. on Memorial Day weekend, any day between June 15 and August 15, or Labor Day weekend), climbers must make reservations to enter the park. This is a timed entry reservation that is also used at other parks, such as Zion National Park, Rocky Mountain National Park, and Arches National Park, allowing the park to regulate the influx of visitors. 
    There is no formal check-in with the rangers after climbing (or bailing). Yosemite climbing rangers and stewards use the information they gather from the permit system to update an Instagram account that reports on big wall traffic. The Instagram's daily posts include information for the number of people on popular climbs like Freerider/Salathe, Zodiac, and Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome. 
    "It is a work in progress, but we are trying to find a sustainable way to get that information out to climbers so that people can disperse from crowded routes if they want," said Yosemite Climbing Ranger Cameron King. The feedback the rangers have received on the account has been positive.  
    Below, we've created a guide to help you navigate your next Yosemite trip filled with all the fine print and details to minimize route finding off the wall.

    Link Preview Image
    The Yosemite Big Wall Permit System: Impact and Logistics — American Alpine Club

    Climbers and other visitors who plan on entering Yosemite National Park between 6 a.m. and 2 p.m. from June 15 thru August 15, 2025, or during Memorial and Labor Day weekends, will require reservations. Visitors holding a Half Dome or wilderness permit, in-park camping or lodging reservations, or en

    favicon

    American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)

    0

Suggested topics

  • BrokenFlowsB

    Bloc 33/40 used in the qualifier’s round for a recent competition.

    General Climbing climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    50 Views
    BrokenFlowsB
    Bloc 33/40 used in the qualifier’s round for a recent competition. #climbing
  • American Alpine ClubA

    Stay Frosty: The Rescue Matrix, with Pete Takeda and Jason Antin

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    60 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    You’re in the thick of it. An accident just happened while you were out climbing, and now you have to decide: do I self-rescue, or do I call for outside help? In this episode of the podcast, we dive into that moment of decision, and provide a series of questions that you can use as a matrix to help you decide what to do next. Our guests, Accidents Editor Pete Takeda, and IFMGA/AMGA Guide and Search and Rescue volunteer, Jason Antin, weigh in. Pete reflects on accident reports from ANAC where individuals have self-rescued, called SAR, or had to do a little of both. We break down a few of these case studies to explore what circumstances caused the accident victims to make the decisions they did to initiate rescue. Then, Jason shares what happens behind the scenes when you call Search and Rescue for help, and how self-rescue techniques can supplement a SAR team’s mission and help SAR get to an injured party faster. Dive in to help prepare yourself, in case you ever find yourself in the thick of it. If you believe conversations like this matter, a donation to the AAC helps us continue sharing stories, insights, and education for the entire climbing community. Donate today! Use Jason Antin’s Guiding Services Explore the Archives: Accidents in North American Climbing Become A Member to Get Accidents in North American Climbing Annually https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/11/20/stay-frosty-the-rescue-matrix-with-pete-takeda-and-jason-antin
  • Access FundA

    The Legal Anchor

    General News accessfund climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    133 Views
    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/the-legal-anchor
  • American Alpine ClubA

    The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    179 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • UK ClimbingU

    IFSC Lead World Cup Bali: Results

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    147 Views
    UK ClimbingU
    Yet again, it was Erin and Chaehyun that ended up battling it out for the top spot, this time with Ai Mori - fourth place finisher at the Paris Olympic games - representing a significant challenge throughout. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781063
  • climber-magazineC

    Janja Garnbret and Toby Roberts take Gold in Koper

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    117 Views
    climber-magazineC
    Olympic Champions, Janja Garnbret and Toby Roberts, win Gold again in the Koper World Cup, Slovenia. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/janja-garnbret-and-toby-roberts-take-gold-in-koper/
  • GrippedG

    Paraclimbing to be Included in 2028 Olympics

    General News climbing
    1
    1 Votes
    1 Posts
    134 Views
    GrippedG
    History has been made as Paraclimbing will debut at the Olympics in four years The post Paraclimbing to be Included in 2028 Olympics appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/paraclimbing-to-be-included-in-2028-olympics/
  • GrippedG

    Climber Sends His First V16 with F the System

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    131 Views
    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/climber-sends-his-first-v16-with-f-the-system/