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Will Bosi Climbs New V15 in Switzerland

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    GrippedG
    A number of skiers were rescued after a big avalanche, but many remain missing The post Several Skiers Missing After Avalanche in California appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/several-skiers-missing-after-avalanche-in-california/
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    ClimbingZineC
    Mudstrosity Yes, it wobbled. Three feet high, one foot wide, a foot deep, probably outweighing me, the block sat at arm’s reach above my head. No way to avoid tangling with it—I was standing in aiders, hanging from a piton. I should bolt around it… by Steve “Crusher” Bartlett (Note: this is an excerpt from… https://climbingzine.com/talk-talk-choss-steve-crusher-bartlett/
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    Andrew HelwerA
    Regrettably accepting that I will not be sincerely good at rock climbing (climb 5.12+) unless I legitimately lose 30 lbs. I'm about 205 lbs now on a 6'2 frame, which puts me at a BMI of 26.3. I've become pretty large muscle-wise after switching from climbing to BJJ, since the sport facilitates & also advantages that. Even before switching from climbing to BJJ I noticed I had to use *way* more force to hang onto certain holds than other people I climbed with, just because I weighed more. Losing 30 lbs would get me to 175 lbs, 22.5 BMI, which (limited) data suggests is around where you want to be to be decent at climbing (ideally even lower).There's also a safety aspect to this. Past 200 lbs, ropes will shred more easily when running over sharp edges after taking a fall. More force just means less safety.At age 34 though losing 30 lbs is like a fantasy. I have no idea how I would even do that. Climb Mt Si 3x/week with a 40 lb pack maybe? Spouse points out that I eat quite a lot of bread per week, so maybe will start with substituting that for something else.#climbing
  • George Eddy Sending Punks in the Gym 5.14a

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    This was the first-ever sport climb given a 5.14 grade - it's set to be closed this year The post George Eddy Sending Punks in the Gym 5.14a appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/george-eddy-sending-punks-in-the-gym-5-14a/
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    UK ClimbingU
    The route, his third at 9a+ in 2024 alone, was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2016, but is best known for its second ascent, when Adam Ondra became the first person ever to flash a route at 9a+. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777086
  • Big Rockfall on The Chief in Squamish

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Luckily the rockfall happened at night and nobody was below the North Walls. There's a link to the rockfall below The post Big Rockfall on The Chief in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/big-rockfall-on-the-chief-in-squamish/
  • The Bugaboos are Snowy to Start Summer

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Search and rescue technician Jordy Shepherd gives update from the Bugaboos The post The Bugaboos are Snowy to Start Summer appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/the-bugaboos-are-snowy-to-start-summer/
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode, we sit down with Jarod, a long-time AAC member, to discuss a crazy accident he had at his home crag in Missouri, and how he utilized the AAC’s rescue benefit to cover the cost of his medical expenses. If you’ve been wondering if the AAC’s rescue benefit is for you, Jarod’s story helps explain how it works. We dive into the quirky concept of “girdle traverses” or mulitpitches that go sideways, and analyze his accident— the decisions he made, how traversing complicates gear placements, and the close calls he had. Funnily enough, Jarod also did a FA on that same wall—putting up Missouri’s potentially longest rock climb with Jeremy Collins, and this FA made it into the American Alpine Journal! We discuss the vision behind this 8-pitch traverse, what went into making it happen, the silliness of climbing, the unique belay tactics for traversing, and more! https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/26/protect-first-ascents-ground-falls-and-the-aac-rescue-benefit-in-action