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10 Trad Routes to Climb at the Smoke Bluffs

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  • A Tribute to Balin Miller

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    It is with great sorrow that we honor the passing of AAC member Balin Miller (23), who died in a climbing accident in Yosemite in October 2025. Miller was an astonishing rising star, dedicated to the sport and exceedingly bold as an ice climber. He was an AAC member for four years, and received the Mountaineering Fellowship Fund Grant (MFFG) multiple times, which awards climbers age 25 and younger with funds to explore remote areas and seek out climbs more difficult than they might ordinarily be able to do. The AAC featured one of his MFFG-funded trips to Canada in our publication, Guidebook XII. In the pages of “Mountain Sense,” you will get a glimpse of this stalwart ice climber who had a goofy side.  Miller was known for his audacious solos, like his solo of Fitz Roy, and the infamous Reality Bath in Canada—until Miller’s ascent, unrepeated since it was first put up by Mark Twight and Randy Rackliff in 1988. Though he was best known for these solos, he also regularly roped up with partners he trusted, accomplishing notable climbs like the Harvard Route on Mt. Huntington, Deprivation on Mt. Hunter, and the Ragni Route on Cerro Torre.  Before he passed, Miller had been working on a story for the 2026 AAJ about his 2025 summer season in Alaska. One highlight achievement of that summer was his historic solo of the Slovak Direct (M6 WI 6 A2; 9,000ft) on Denali (Mt. McKinley). The AAJ will be publishing his story posthumously to honor his legacy, accomplished in such a short life.  While we honor Balin’s life and accomplishments here, more than anything, we are left with a somber realization of the pain experienced by those who are grieving him. Our thoughts are with Balin’s family and friends, and all who shared a rope and a laugh with him.  If you or another climbing in your life have been impacted by the loss of a loved one in the mountains or in a climbing accident, you can get support. The AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund offers funding for climbers to seek therapy to start their journey through grief and loss.  Learn more about how to apply to get funding for therapy services, below. Or, access our directory of knowledgeable climbing and outdoor-sports-oriented therapists. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/10/15/a-tribute-to-balin-miller
  • 0 Votes
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    ClimbingZineC
    How did I end up becoming an off-width climber?  I used to absolutely hate off-widths—mostly because I didn’t like the way it felt thrashing blindly inside of them. It hurt. It felt unpleasant. And I never had enough wide gear. The whole endeavor felt like a waste of time.  My first visit to the off-width… https://climbingzine.com/the-wide-tour-by-mary-eden-an-excerpt-from-volume-25/
  • 0 Votes
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    GrippedG
    Norwegian climber and author Jo Nesbø has logged a hard route at the age of 67 The post Bestselling Crime Writer With 80 million Book Sales Climbs 5.13b appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/bestselling-crime-writer-with-80-million-book-sales-climbs-5-13b/
  • Pushing The Limits of Releasable Systems

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imSqFCqsCWs
  • 9 Mile Cigarette is a 5.13 Trad Climb in the USA

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Watch as the crux of this five-pitch route gets a repeat in a new short film The post 9 Mile Cigarette is a 5.13 Trad Climb in the USA appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/9-mile-cigarette-is-a-5-13-trad-climb-in-the-usa/
  • CONTEST: Win a Mountaineering Backpack Worth $330!

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    3 secondary prizes also up for grabs! The post CONTEST: Win a Mountaineering Backpack Worth $330! appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/contest/contest-win-a-mountaineering-backpack-worth-330/
  • American Connie Shang Climbs Her First 5.14c

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/american-connie-shang-climbs-her-first-5-14c/
  • 0 Votes
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    Hard Is EasyH
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMM-6WGAOlw