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10 Apr 2025, 11:00

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    This week's Friday Night Video is a deeply personal and inspiring story about Danny Giovale, a passionate climber who faces a life-changing ordeal in the Dolomites. Danny is propelled to invent a revolutionary type of crampon, addressing a critical safety gap in mountain travel. This invention not only transforms the outdoor industry but also... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779777
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    These awards are our chance—as a climbing advocacy movement—to honor some of the individuals and organizations who stand out for their exceptional commitment to building communities, stewarding climbing areas, and fighting for sustainable and equal access for all. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/access-fund-announces-2024-climbing-advocate-awardees
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    Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi has repeated Daniel Woods'Return of the Sleepwalker(Font 9A/V17), in Black Velvet Canyon, Nevada. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779562
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    Originally published in Guidebook XIII If you haven’t logged some ascents on West Virginia stone, that’s a gap in your climbing resume that you should rectify immediately. You won’t regret making the trek to climb on the New’s tiered roofs and bouldery, sequency walls. The New River Gorge (NRG) is one of the few truly world-class destinations in the U.S., and a trip to visit in 2025 would be an easy way to ensure your climbing year is filled with unbelievable climbing— the kind that has you yelling, “WOW I LOVE ROCK CLIMBING” halfway up the wall. The NRG boasts miles of challenging climbing on ironclad Nuttall sandstone cliffs. Many routes overlook the stunning New River Gorge, or you can travel deep into the vibrant West Virginia forest and find hidden cliffs with stellar routes. The rock is composed of 98% quartz—some even claim it’s harder than Yosemite granite. With over 3,000 established routes, the NRG has almost every type of climbing: run-out and well-bolted, slab, overhangs, cracks, techy vertical faces, corners, arêtes, trad and sport climbing, and bouldering. Technical small holds, long reaches, big moves, and old-school bolting leave many shaking in their climbing shoes. You’ll never get bored if you love finding a sequence of moves that unlocks a climb. And you’ll never feel better than when you push through the mental challenge and pull off the move. “It’s a humbling place to climb, so you have to be willing to be humbled a lot,” said Jane Kilgour, the Community & Guest Services Manager at the AAC New River Gorge Campground. The caliber of climbs makes every fall and try-hard scream worthwhile. “[The New River Gorge] is the kind of place where people come for a week, and they end up staying for three months and then moving around their plans for the year so they can return again next season,” said Kilgour. The best advice for visiting the New: chase stars, not grades. The quality of lines and routes is why climbers can’t get enough of the NRG. As an AAC member, enjoy discounts at AAC lodging facilities and dozens of other locations in the AAC lodging network. Each membership is critical to the AAC’s work: advocating for climbing access and natural landscapes, offering essential knowledge to the climbing community through our accident analysis and documentation of cutting edge climbing, and supporting our members with our rescue benefit, discounts, grants and more.  The New River Gorge National Park is on the land of the Cherokee and Shawnee, among other tribes. We acknowledge their past, present, and future connection to the land. To learn more, visit the Sandstone Visitor Center on your trip. In the 1970s, West Virginia locals began developing the New River Gorge, focusing on what would become the Bridge Area before the NRG Bridge was completed in 1977. Classics like Chockstone (5.9), Jaws (5.9), and Tree Route (5.10) were climbed in the Bridge Buttress area and graded initially as 5.7. Locals continued to put up more routes, moving on to the Junkyard Wall. Whispers of amazing climbing at the New River Gorge spread, and the 1980s brought a new wave of climbers who pushed grades and technical difficulties in the area. Rapscallion’s Blues (5.10c), Leave It to Jesus (5.11c), and Incredarete (5.12c) were put up, and with every season, more climbing areas were discovered. In the late ‘80s, sport climbing and Lynn Hill came to the New. Eric Horst put up the first 5.13 in the New, Diamond Life, and Lynn clinched the first ascent of the Greatest Show on Earth (5.13a), setting a new standard for women in the New River Gorge. Hard sport climbing ruled the early 1990s. The late Brian McCray put up difficult lines on overhanging walls, including the first 5.14a, Proper Soul. Development plateaued in the late ‘90s, as the NPS acquired most of the climbing cliffs, and a power drill ban was enacted in 1998. Currently, the NPS accepts permit applications for new routes. In the 2010s, many 5.14s were bolted and sent, including Trebuchet (5.14b), Coal Train (5.14a), and Mono... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/2/10/guidebook-xiii-nrg
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    Sébastien Bouin has established the hardest route in China with the first ascent of El Gran Cabron (F9b). https://www.climber.co.uk/news/seb-bouin-makes-first-ascent-of-china-s-hardest-sport-route-el-gran-cabron-f9b/
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    Kahtoola, the market leader in flexible footwear traction and manufacturer of other products designed to make the outdoors more accessible to everyone, celebrates its 25th anniversary with a continued commitment to sustainable growth, product i... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=778500
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiimZFYwhp8
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    Very pleased with how this knit chalk bag turned out.It's been in the works for a while. The knitting wasn't an issue, but I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to sewing and I was sure I would mess it up. Happy to say, I will be using it while on the wall tomorrow.Pattern is Cabled Chalk Bag by AC Knits.#Knitting #Climbing