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Testing a 3/8" concrete screw

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  • How to (safely) clean an overhanging route

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    When lowering off and cleaning an overhanging route, you may have a problem at the bottom quick draw. If you unclip that and let go, you're probably gonna take a big swing, which may be into something dangerous. Here are two techniques to solve this problem. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-safely-clean-an-overhanging-route
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    ClimbingZineC
    To kick off Luke’s summer climbing road trip, he stopped in Moab, Utah for this conversation with Mary Eden, also known as the Trad Princess. Our sponsors for Season 7:  Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email holds@kiltergrips.com for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Subscribe/ score some books/clothes/stickers: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ photo by Spencer McKay https://climbingzine.com/dont-be-a-trad-princess-with-mary-eden/
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/statement-on-bolting-near-pregnant-sheep-petroglyphs
  • 1 Votes
    12 Posts
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    devnullD
    Last weekend I took a couple friends to the local crag for their first time out. Since I was the only one able to clean, others led and set the anchor, but on occasion if the leader were unable to reach the anchors, I would set the anchor and belayed the others up from the top using a grigri. That worked pretty well, though I'm aware that Petzl doesn't recommend using the grigri in such a manner (a redirected belay is preferred.) I did notice that the DMM Pivot set up in guide/auto-blocking mode had a dedicated method for lowering — using a second biner to adjust the angle of the device. Are there concerns with doing so for lowering a second climber all the way to the ground? Whenever lowering is mentioned, it's always in the context is lowering the second "a few feet" or so.
  • 1 Votes
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    climbingC
    “Yes!”—“No!”—“Was it even any different?” https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/was-climbing-better-before-it-was-an-olympic-sport/
  • 0 Votes
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    GrippedG
    In response to concerns over fixed anchor regulations, the Yosemite Climbing Association has introduced a Climber’s Credo. The post Protecting Yosemite’s Vertical Wilderness: The YCA Climber’s Credo appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/protecting-yosemites-vertical-wilderness-the-yca-climbers-credo/
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    Access FundA
    Shorter growing seasons, limited soil, and fragile plant life make it especially important for us to tread lightly and reduce our impact when alpine climbing. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/open-gate-blog/5-things-to-know-before-you-climb-in-the-alpine
  • 0 Votes
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    climbingC
    A family illness seemed to dash Harrison’s Olympic prospects. But in November 2023, he fought for a second chance. https://www.climbing.com/people/olympic-climber-campbell-harrison/