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Derek Averill - Flowy Backup for the TRS section After Stick Clipping - Lead Rope Solo Climbing

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6 Feb 2025, 19:00

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    In this episode, we talk to AAC member, alpinist, and ski mountaineer, Maddie Miller, about a Nepal trip gone wrong–what she hoped was going to be a level-up in her climbing career, turned into a medical evacuation. At 16,200 feet, Maddie started experiencing signs of the extremely life-threatening medical condition HAPE, or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Thankfully, she had the ability to call for a helicopter, and get emergency care–all covered by her AAC rescue benefit and medical expense coverage. We dive into her experience with the freaky feeling of gurgling lungs, what other people don’t realize about this extremely deadly medical diagnosis, and what it means to feel as fit as possible but still affected by altitude. Learn More about Maddie Miller Learn More about AAC Rescue Benefit Discover Melissa Arnot Reid’s Book https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/8/drowning-at-altitude-a-nepal-rescue-story
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    Benjamin Vedrines did not use a motorised vehicle to travel between the famous peaks The post Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses North Faces in a Push appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/eiger-matterhorn-and-grandes-jorasses-north-faces-in-a-push/
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    The short sandstone route features an extremely difficult crux The post Adam Ondra Opens a Unique 5.14d appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-opens-a-unique-5-14d/
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    Despite not the best conditions, Jenny Abegg set the fastest known time round-trip up Cerro Solo The post American Jenny Abegg Sets Patagonia Record appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/american-jenny-abegg-sets-patagonia-record/
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrzC2qA51Wk
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    The climb was named in honour of Marc-André Leclerc by the first ascent team, which included Brette Harrington The post Second Ascent of Marc-André’s Visión on Torre Egger in Patagonia appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/second-ascent-of-marc-andres-vision-on-torre-egger-in-patagonia/
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    Looking to blend climbing and leisure? You can't go wrong at one of these beachside climbing areas. https://www.climbing.com/places/the-10-best-beachside-climbing-destinations/
  • All Aspects

    General News climbing 24 Jun 2024, 21:00
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    The AAC DC Chapter hosts a New Ice Climber Weekend in the Adirondacks with Escala Grassroots: Unearthing the Future of Climbing By: Sierra McGivney The sun peeked over the Pitchoff Quarry crag, hitting the ice and creating an enchanting aura. The cool February air was saturated with people laughing and ice tools scraping against the ice. If you listened closely, you'd notice that the conversations were a beautiful mix of English and Spanish.  The New Ice Climber Weekend (NICW), hosted by the AAC DC Chapter, has become an annual event. Piotr Andrzejczak, the AAC DC chapter chair and organizer of the New Ice Climber Weekend, believes mentorship is paramount in climbing. The weekend aims to provide participants with an opportunity to try ice climbing, find ice climbing partners, and have a starting point for more significant objectives. Above all, it aims to minimize the barrier to entry for ice climbing.  Last year, Andrzejczak approached Melissa Rojas, the co-founder of Escala and volunteer with the DC Chapter, about partnering to do a New Ice Climber Weekend with Escala. Escala is part of the American Alpine Club's Affiliate Support Network, which provides emerging affinity groups with resources in order to minimize barriers in their operations and serving their community. Escala “creates accessibility, expands representation, and increases visibility in climbing for Hispanic and Latine individuals by building community, sharing culture, and mentoring one another.” Climbing can be a challenging sport to get into. It can require shoes, a harness, a gym membership, and climbing partners. Ice climbing requires all that plus more: ice tools, crampons, and winter clothing.  "There's a lot more complexity to ice climbing," said Rojas. Ice climbing can be limited not only in quantity but also in quality. Due to climate change, the ice in the Adirondacks loses its quality faster than previous decades and the climbs are only of good quality for a limited amount of time. DC climbers are at least seven hours from the Adirondacks, plus traffic and stops, so ice climbing for them has unforeseen logistical challenges. During the NICW, participants can focus more on the basics of learning to ice climb and less on logistics. Rojas and Andrzejczak hosted a pre-meetup/virtual session so that participants could get to know each other and ask questions ahead of time. "We wanted to give folks an opportunity to ice climb in a supportive environment where they felt like they were in a community and were being supported throughout the whole process, from the planning stage to the actual trip," said Rojas. Another focus of the weekend was creating a film. Colt Bradley attended the New Ice Climber Weekend in 2023 as a videographer and as a participant. Bradley volunteers with the AAC Baltimore Chapter and is also Andrzejczak's climbing partner. Last year, he created four Instagram videos that captured the excitement of ice climbing for the first time. When asked to film the Escala x NICW this year, he wanted to do something longer and more story-focused. Bradley and Rojas talked beforehand about focusing the film on the Escala community and highlighting the bond made possible through its existence.  Rojas has worked hard to build up this blended community of Spanish-speaking climbers. Spanish has many flavors, as it is spoken in many different countries with different cultures—all unique in their own way. The film focused on reflecting and representing the vibrant community of Escala.  Soon, they all found themselves at Pitchoff Quarry in the Adirondacks. While the participants learned how to swing their ice tools and kick their crampons into the ice, Bradley sought out community moments. He wanted to put viewers in the moment as participants climbed, so he mi... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/18/all-aspects