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Derek Averill - Flowy Backup for the TRS section After Stick Clipping - Lead Rope Solo Climbing

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  • Question about carabiner orientation

    General Climbing climbing
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    frankpodmore@slrpnk.netF
    I was belaying the other day with a BD GridLock Carabiner (see PDF if you're unfamiliar - it's labelled 'D') and a GriGri. Had an issue that the GriGri worked its way around the carabiner and was pushing against the gate, essentially trying to open it. Now, obviously I did my pre-climbing checks and so the gate was screwed shut, but I was a little concerned anyway. So, I checked out the manual for the GridLock (see PDF) and it says you're meant to put a GriGri the other way around than when using an ATC. So, firstly, just FYI - this is the way Black Diamond say to do it, with the GriGri in the narrow end of the carabiner. Okay, so far so good. But then I noticed that the same image suggests that you put the GridLock so that the gate is on the same side as a the dead rope (right when belaying if you're right handed). I've always done it the other way around, so I was now additionally confused. But wait! It gets weirder! Black Diamond's manual also suggests that with a standard screwgate biner, the gate should also be on the dead rope side. Now, this can't possibly be right, surely? Because the rope could potentially roll the gate open. Now I'm baffled. I've always had the screwgate on the left, away from the rope, because it seems natural to do it that way, and having the screwgate on the right (rope side) seems potentially dangerous, but apparently that's how BD, at least, think it should be done! I'd kinda like an answer to this, given that I'm trusting my climbing buddies' lives to these things. What are /c/climbing's thoughts on this?
  • SCC Member Highlight – Nick Shook

    Southeast climbing scc
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    S
    https://www.seclimbers.org/2024/12/30/scc-member-highlight-nick-shook/
  • David Fitzgerald Climbing Hard California Blocs

    General News climbing
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    1 Posts
    14 Views
    GrippedG
    In a new film, Fitzgerald tackles a few of the state's most impressive lines The post David Fitzgerald Climbing Hard California Blocs appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/david-fitzgerald-climbing-hard-california-blocs/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    24 Views
    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQAMuI-kD_M
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    24 Views
    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4qxV3wZBWs
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    21 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    Walking up to the base of Freerider, I felt rested, light, but increasingly nervous. Two years ago, I’d never climbed a single big wall. Seven months ago, I’d never rope soloed a single pitch of climbing. I’d still never soloed a big wall in any way, shape, or form: aid, free, French free. Yet here… https://climbingzine.com/first-solo-free-in-a-day-el-capitan/
  • Amity Warme Climbs 13-Pitch 5.13d in U.S.A.

    General News climbing
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    1 Posts
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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/amity-warme-climbs-13-pitch-5-13d-in-u-s-a/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    51 Views
    IFSCI
    https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/news/south-korean-pair-take-top-spots-in-boulder-lead-semi-final