OpenBeta Forums

Your browser does not seem to support JavaScript. As a result, your viewing experience will be diminished, and you have been placed in read-only mode.

Please download a browser that supports JavaScript, or enable it if it's disabled (i.e. NoScript).

How to avoid edge loading carabiners

General News

1 Posts 1 Posters 112 Views 1 Watching

A Offline
A Offline
AlpineSavvy

wrote on last edited by

#1

Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem.
Premium Article available

Two ways to avoid edge loading carabiners — Alpinesavvy

Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
1 Reply Last reply
1
0
S Sport Channel shared this topic on

T Thomas lissajoux shared this topic on

Suggested topics

E

Deep Water Soloing used to look very different in the 60's
Watching Ignoring Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Videos climbing
1

0 Votes

1 Posts

60 Views

E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbKDcbHHtpM
G

Squamish Wildfire Forces Evacuation of Park
Watching Ignoring Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved General News climbing
1

1 Votes

1 Posts

86 Views

G

The Dryden Creek wildfire has grown to be over 20 hectares The post Squamish Wildfire Forces Evacuation of Park appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/squamish-wildfire-forces-evacuation-of-park/
U

Rare E9 repeats for Saul Calvert, Rory Cummings, and Mat Wright
Watching Ignoring Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved General News climbing
1

0 Votes

1 Posts

185 Views

U

The past week has rare repeats of two E9 trad routes, with Saul Calvert and Rory Cummings making the first and second repeat of Ricky Bell's 2015 Fair Head slab solo Long Runs the Fox (E9 6c), and Mat Wright making the first repeat of Dave MacLeod's 2002 The Fugue (E9 6c) at Glen Croe. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=780506
E

Finding your way through 700 climbers...
Watching Ignoring Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Videos climbing
1

0 Votes

1 Posts

143 Views

E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXRVUTuTRSo
A

DIY - Ice tool tethers
Watching Ignoring Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved General News climbing alpinesavvy
1

1 Votes

1 Posts

116 Views

A

Tool tethers prevent the gigantic problem of dropping an ice tool on a long alpine route. The commercial ones work fine; however they can be a bit expensive. Here's a way to make your own. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/diy-ice-tool-tethers
G

Pont Rouge in Quebec is Famous for Ice and Mixed Climbing
Watching Ignoring Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved General News climbing
1

1 Votes

1 Posts

109 Views

G

With dozens of quality lines, this is where the famous Festiglace festival takes places every winter. This is a great place to visit for an ice getaway this winter The post Pont Rouge in Quebec is Famous for Ice and Mixed Climbing appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/pont-rouge-in-quebec-is-famous-for-ice-and-mixed-climbing/
K

I was allowed to set a cheeky bonus problem on the slab wall tonight.
Watching Ignoring Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved General Climbing climbing
1

0 Votes

1 Posts

141 Views

K

I was allowed to set a cheeky bonus problem on the slab wall tonight. I wanted something that let you practice transitioning across volumes and finding the right amount of weight to put through your feet on them, without being high or scary.https://vimeo.com/1052259169#climbing
U

Dna - Europe's Wild Side: Climbing on the BBC
Watching Ignoring Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved General News climbing
1

0 Votes

1 Posts

117 Views

U

Last year we featured the BBC Alba series Dna: Scotland's Wild Side, a Gaelic-language programme which showcased the finest climbing and hillwalking on some of Scotland's most remote mountains and adventurous sea cliffs. A fourth series is now available to watch on BBC Alba and BBC iPlayer. This time, though, protagonist Coi... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777475