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A Climber We Lost: Adam George

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    julianJ
    A question for the TRS folks in the climbing community... This past Monday I went out and top rope solo'd for the first time. It was a nice experience and I learned a lot. I look forward to honing some of the practices (e.g. refixing strategy, bottom weight, etc.) One thing that I was not prepared for was a specific knot that Brent Barghahn teaches in his TRS video with Ryan Jenks from How NOT 2. He states that he refixes his rope to prevent rope abrasion (), and this can be done in a number of ways. He now prefers to tie a slipknot with a full twist (instead of a half-twist), instead of something that requires him to stop and untie, like an alpine butterfly. I attmepted to tie this knot a number of times in preparation (and on site), but it never looked right. I ended up using a butterfly. Later I rewatched the video and practiced the knot for a full half hour before I figured out exactly why it didn't look right. Can you figure it out? Here is the knot tied correctly, and then incorrectly. Can you spot which is which? [image: 1741924974063-pxl_20250313_143739970.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1741924980472-pxl_20250314_015542239-resized.jpg]
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    American Alpine ClubA
    March 2025 The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Mountain Hardwear are excited to announce the 2025 McNeill-Nott recipients. With the untimely death of Sue Nott and her climbing partner Karen McNeill on Sultana (Mt. Foraker) in 2006, the AAC partnered with Mountain Hardwear to establish the McNeill-Nott Award in their memory. This award seeks to preserve the spirit of these two talented and courageous climbers by giving grants to amateur female climbers exploring new routes or unclimbed peaks with small teams. Heather Smallpage will receive $2,000 to attempt big wall and alpine-style first ascents in a little-climbed region of Baffin Island: Arviqtujuq Kangiqtua (formerly Eglinton Fjord). Natalie Afonina, Shira Biner, Char Tomlinson, and Kaylan Worsnop will all join the expedition, which will be almost entirely human-powered. The expedition team will travel over 250 km by skiing, climbing, packrafting, and walking. The team hopes that this expedition will not only inspire people to see what is possible for female and nonbinary alpinism but also emphasize how increasingly essential and joyous these spaces are in this sport and will tell a story that includes voices that are often quieted or left out of the climbing media. Angela VanWiemeersch will receive $4,000 to attempt to establish a technical line in alpine style on a 5,000-meter peak in the Pamir Alai mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Allie Oaks will join VanWiemeersch on this expedition. Oaks and VanWiemeersch have been growing a long-distance partnership over the last four years and will be doing a training trip in the Canadian Rockies this April. This will be their first big expedition together.  Brooke Maushund will receive $1,000 to attempt to climb and ski unclimbed peaks on the Southern Patagonian Icefield (Hielo Continental) with a primarily female team. Since avalanche forecasting in the U.S. during austral summers, Maushund was driven to extend her winters in the Southern Hemisphere. After spending close to four months skiing in Patagonia last year, starting to learn terrain, snowpacks, and weather patterns, she is excited to continue learning through exploratory skiing in this dynamic, wild environment.  Applications for the McNeill-Nott Award are accepted each year from October 1 through November 30. Berkeley Anderson, Foundation and Grants Coordinator: [email protected] About Mountain Hardwear Mountain Hardwear, Inc., was founded in 1993 and is based in Richmond, CA. We exist to encourage and equip people to seek a wilder path in life. For 30 years, we’ve built essential equipment for climbers, mountaineers, and outdoor athletes and have supported expeditions on the world’s highest peaks. Relentless precision continues to inspire everything we do — our designers sweat every stitch and detail to continuously improve function, durability, and comfort. Mountain Hardwear is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Columbia Sportswear Company that distributes its products through specialty outdoor retailers in the United States and 34 countries worldwide. www.mountainhardwear.com https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/13/the-american-alpine-club-announces-2025-mcneill-nott-winners
  • Your Quarterly Message From AAC Leadership

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Originally published in Guidebook XIII Dear AAC Members, Thank you for taking the time to dive into this second edition of the AAC’s quarterly Guidebook. A lot of things are changing at the AAC, and we are energized by the new opportunities that these changes afford. We are re-envisioning our measurable impact and excited to further support our members in a way only the AAC can. This Guidebook is just that—your guide to the work that you make possible through your membership. When you read these stories— from celebrating volunteers like Maurice Chen, who is bringing our much-beloved Accidents in North American Climbing to international audiences (which you can read about in “Found in Translation”), or the shattering finding of member Eric Gilbertson that Rainier’s summit is shrinking ( in “The Height of Mountains”), to all the world-class climbing you can find at our cozy lodging facility at the New River Gorge, as well as the profound impact our grants program has on our members (as seen in “Sea to Summit” and “Life: An Objective Hazard”)—you’re seeing the AAC’s mission at work: the advancement of knowledge, inspiration, and advocacy. While we’re excited to share these stories with you, there is also a lot going on behind the scenes that hasn’t made it into a full-fledged story yet. Many of these happenings you can find highlighted in our “AAC Updates” section that follows. As we kick off this new year, we are also excited about ongoing projects that will shape the future of the AAC, like developing a new website, which will make it easier for our members to take advantage of their benefits. Finally, I want to take a moment to celebrate the impressive advocacy success that the AAC helped make possible at the end of 2024. The unanimous passage of the EXPLORE Act is a historic moment for recreationists, and as law, it will significantly expand access to our nation’s public lands and protect climbing in our beloved Wilderness areas. In December, the National Park Service also announced that they are discontinuing their proposed fixed anchor guidance; the AAC thanks the NPS for sensing the need to reevaluate the proposed regulations and looks forward to collaborating with them in the future on fixed anchor guidance. Looking forward, we are equipped to adapt our tactics to future challenges in order to advocate for the needs of our members, and all climbers. At the AAC, we’re pulled together by our passion for climbing, and that passion is woven throughout these pages. Our expansive grants, affordable lodging, significant research findings, impactful advocacy work, and more are only possible because of your membership, donations, and commitment to climbing. Nina Williams AAC Board President Operations and Governance Lodging Advocacy Education https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/2/10/ewld060rs1z9w881oz4awfrbwbiqmj
  • Sungsu Lee Climbs 6 V15s and a 5.15 in 2024

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    He finished his strong year with a repeat of Lucid Dreaming V15 this week The post Sungsu Lee Climbs 6 V15s and a 5.15 in 2024 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/uncategorized/sungsu-lee-climbs-6-v15s-and-a-5-15-in-2024/
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    climbingC
    Massive celebration of outdoor culture returns to Denver with an all-star musical lineup, a bigger footprint, and an energetic mix of speakers, gear, films, food and fun https://www.climbing.com/news/outside-festival-2025-headliners-khruangbin-lord-huron/
  • Adam Ondra is Finally Projecting DNA 5.15d

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Climbers have been hoping to see Adam Ondra try DNA since it was first climbed in 2022 The post Adam Ondra is Finally Projecting DNA 5.15d appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/adam-ondra-is-finally-projecting-dna-5-15d/
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toXIVPwe1pY
  • Wild Country Mosquito Pro Harness Review

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    A comfortable harness designed for all of your trad and alpine climbing adventures The post Wild Country Mosquito Pro Harness Review appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/wild-country-mosquito-pro-harness-review/