Skip to content

Double Spoc; top rope solo

General Climbing
10 4 696 1
  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    This post is deleted!
  • This post is deleted!

    This post is deleted!
  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    @devnull
    In general, or specific to the devices?

    Note, I only read/watched information on TRS.

    Regarding devices in general, the most crucial things seem to be carabiner cross loading and devices getting unblocked.

    Regarding general aspects it makes sense to analyse all steps that could fail and check for mitigations.
    Like is doing in their Lead Rope Solo risk analysis video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTTDRX6RTWc).
    But I think more details could/should be included.

  • @devnull
    In general, or specific to the devices?

    Note, I only read/watched information on TRS.

    Regarding devices in general, the most crucial things seem to be carabiner cross loading and devices getting unblocked.

    Regarding general aspects it makes sense to analyse all steps that could fail and check for mitigations.
    Like is doing in their Lead Rope Solo risk analysis video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTTDRX6RTWc).
    But I think more details could/should be included.

    @devnull

    For cross loading, you might have seen the latest video by Yann Camus already
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXVF5zmPt_I

    And for other risks to consider, there is also the episodes on Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo.

  • @devnull

    For cross loading, you might have seen the latest video by Yann Camus already
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXVF5zmPt_I

    And for other risks to consider, there is also the episodes on Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo.

    @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de I actually hadn't seen the latest video Yann put out, so that'll be on the list tonight!

    @HowNOT2's video is actually how I got interested in TRS in the first place! Really good and straightforward explanation of the mechanisms and risks involved.

  • This post is deleted!

    @pmonks@sfba.social @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de That's a good list, although your two thoughts ended up being six 😆

    I've thought a bit about the idea of using two different devices. I was about to pull the trigger on a CAMP Lift, but I wasn't convinced of its safety given its tendency to no longer engage when grabbed or tilted (against a rock perhaps?) — additionally most rope soloists who climb with progress capture devices (again, talking North America) seem to go with the double-trax, which also doesn't satisfy the "two different devices" constraint.

    I will have an ascender (a tibloc + PAS) and a descender (Mammut Smart).

    As for rope protection, I was planning on re-fixing often so as to not worry (too much) about edge protection.

    Lastly, will be running all of this on my garage anchor board to get all these new skills (and devices!) tested for real before I get out on rock!

  • @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de I actually hadn't seen the latest video Yann put out, so that'll be on the list tonight!

    @HowNOT2's video is actually how I got interested in TRS in the first place! Really good and straightforward explanation of the mechanisms and risks involved.

    @devnull
    I forgot, that has a collection of articles regarding Toprope solo.
    Including a non exhaustive list for risk analysis.

    You can find them at the end of the following page, where the first article is called 'To read for self-belaying'
    https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Indoor-and-Outdoor-Climbing

  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    I use microtraction, an old ushba and a homemade neck/elastic loop. Works fine. Ushba is primary, micro traction is secondary. Very smooth. Pay close attention to how your system performs in overhanging terrrain.
  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    This post did not contain any content.

Suggested topics


  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    30 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    Part of the Climbing Grief Fund’s (CGF) mission is to expand the conversation around grief, loss, and trauma in the climbing community, and interrogate narratives that can be unhelpful to healing. In this episode, we unpack some of the unique challenges faced by caregivers after a loved one gets into a climbing accident, and explore why it can be helpful for caregivers to get mental health support too, not just those directly impacted by an accident. In section one, we have the CGF Therapeutic Manager, Trevor Davis, on the podcast, to talk about the scope of the Climbing Grief Fund, as well as its ongoing expansion and impact. Trevor chats with Jay Louie, a therapist in the CGF Directory and a CGF committee member, about these topics, and together they frame the conversation about why CGF resources are for caregivers too. In section two, we dive deeper with Jay, as they share some case studies to illustrate the very human experiences of caregiving after climbing accidents. They share these case studies from their professional experience as a therapist and AMGA Guide, described anonymously, with permission from their clients. In section three, we sat down with Andrew Kirchner, an incredible supporter of the Climbing Grief Fund and a survivor of a climbing accident himself. Andrew describes his accident, and how it made him realize that the accident didn’t just happen to him, it had a dramatic impact on his loved ones as well. Andrew also elaborates on what motivated him to make the Edwards-Ginsburg fund, and thereby support the CGF’s work so generously. Donate Before March 10, and Double Your Impact Apply to the Climbing Grief Fund Grant Explore the CGF Mental Health Directory Learn More About (or work with) Jay Louie Learn More About (or work with) Trevor Davis https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/2/27/a-team-sport-the-psychology-of-caregiving-after-a-climbing-accident
  • Big Alpine Route in Alps Freed at 5.14

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    94 Views
    GrippedG
    The first ascent was done in 2001 solo at a grade of A5 The post Big Alpine Route in Alps Freed at 5.14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/big-alpine-route-in-alps-freed-at-5-14/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    238 Views
    Enrique Gil AlcubillaE
    Subiendo a la cima del Posets (3369 m) por la cresta oeste tras rapelar la brecha Carrivé. En el PN Posets Maladeta (HUESCA). Ruta larga y poco frecuentada de gran belleza. #pirineo #escalada #climbing #benasque #paisaje #landscape #posetsmaladeta #posets
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    114 Views
    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J44ciuz_mgA
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    170 Views
    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/chris-schulte-help-access-fund-keep-climbing-areas-open-and-conserved
  • 60-Pitch Himalayan Route Climbed Again

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    147 Views
    GrippedG
    The American Direct gets a rare repeat as other climbers try a new route on Ama Dablam The post 60-Pitch Himalayan Route Climbed Again appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/60-pitch-himalayan-route-climbed-again/
  • Seb Bouin repeats X Intergal F9a+

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    172 Views
    climber-magazineC
    Seb Bouin recently made the third ascent of X Integral (F9a+) in Gottreux, Switzerland. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/seb-bouin-repeats-x-intergal-f9a/
  • Irmgard Braun Climbs 5.12+ at 72 Years Old

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    156 Views
    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/irmgard-braun-climbs-5-12-at-72-years-old/