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  4. Guidebook XII—Rewind the Climb

Guidebook XII—Rewind the Climb

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  • American Alpine ClubA

    By Hannah Provost
    If you had to tell the story of the evolution of climbing within the history of one route, your most compelling choices might be The Nose of El Capitan or The Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon. In this way, The Naked Edge is a time capsule containing within its memory: the much dreamed-of first ascent finally climbed by Layton Kor, Bob Culp, and Rick Horn; a period defining free ascent by Jim Erickson and Duncan Furgeson in the early 1970s; and one of the few battle- grounds for speed records in the United States. In 1962, Kor and Bob Culp were diverted attempting to aid the steep final edge, and today, climbers have speed climbed the route, bridge to bridge, in a little over 22 minutes. What is it about this climb that has allowed it to be the sketchbook for climbing legends to draw out the evolution of our sport? Anecdotes and artifacts from the American Alpine Club Library and archives provided the answer.

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  • IvesI

    Sorry for the FB link, but this is something you should be aware of if you're #climbing in #Kalymnos .

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    IvesI
    Sorry for the FB link, but this is something you should be aware of if you're #climbing in #Kalymnos . A climber died because **both** of the bolts of his anchor failed while he was lowered. Action is being taken to inspect routes and close them until necessary replacements have been made. Be careful out there.And also be aware that SAR in Greece is not at the level you maybe used to at home.https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=26899152946357895&id=1050512014982009
  • GrippedG

    Laura Rogora Makes History with Second 5.14c Onsight

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    GrippedG
    Rogora joins Adam Ondra and Alex Megos as the third climber in history to onsight two or more climbs 5.14c or harder The post Laura Rogora Makes History with Second 5.14c Onsight appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/laura-rogora-makes-history-with-second-5-14c-onsight/
  • AlpineSavvyA

    Climbing Tips: Do THIS, not THAT (Part 7)

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    AlpineSavvyA
    Five more quick tips on best practices. In this article: Best place to put your pulley in a hauling system, how to rack pickets, why it's good to have waypoints rather than just a track on your GPS, minimizing cluster at big wall anchors, and why it's good to stand away from the cliff when you pull your rappel rope. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/do-this-not-that-part-7
  • GrippedG

    American Going for Everest Spreed Record

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    GrippedG
    The American is known for his growing list of fastest known times on some of the world's most famous peaks The post American Going for Everest Spreed Record appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/american-going-for-everest-spreed-record/
  • GrippedG

    Emily Harrington Climbs Nine-Pitch 5.13b in Yosemite Valley

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    GrippedG
    The Nexus AKA The Niels Tietze Memorial Route is said to be one of the best modern routes in the area The post Emily Harrington Climbs Nine-Pitch 5.13b in Yosemite Valley appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/emily-harrington-climbs-nine-pitch-5-13b-in-yosemite-valley/
  • GrippedG

    Katie Lamb Tops a Tahoe V14

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    The crux involves a cool double-toehook with the feet while moving the hands from some small crimps The post Katie Lamb Tops a Tahoe V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/katie-lamb-tops-a-tahoe-v14/
  • American Alpine ClubA

    A Tribute to Michael Gardner

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Michael Gardner 1991-2024 We are deeply saddened by the death of Michael Gardner: a great alpinist and a vibrant life.  Michael was on an expedition funded by the AAC’s Cutting Edge Grant, attempting the unclimbed north face of Jannu East in Nepal with his long time climbing partner Sam Hennessey, when he fell to his death on October 7th, 2024. We are grateful that Hennessey is safe after the incident.  There have been so many tributes to Mike in the last few days that attest to his incredible empathy, enthusiasm, dedication to the craft of climbing, pure motivations and lack of ego. Indeed, his quiet pursuit of the mountains on his own terms means his legacy is not flashy, but found in traces and in the background—he was climbing and skiing for the sake of the craft, not for recognition. Yet he was repeatedly the preferred partner for Cutting Edge Grant recipients like Hennessey, and his name appeared again and again in the American Alpine Journal over the last few years, for his new routes, fast ascents of iconic faces, and creative ski alpinism. Rather than listing his great ascents here, and reducing him to a list of accomplishments, we encourage all who knew him, all who were inspired by him, to dive into the AAJ stories that feature him—as a way to walk, for a brief moment, alongside him in the memories of some of his greatest life experiences in the mountains. The mountains called him back again and again, whether it was to put up a new rock route on Mt. Owens, Renny Take the Wheel (1,500’, 8 pitches, IV 5.11), or envision the first ascent of Hot Cars and Fast Women (850m, M6+) with Hennessey on Denali’s Ridge of No Return. Mike and Sam were also simply fast. Their second ascent of Light Traveler (M7) on the southwest face of Denali in 2018 was not only the fastest for this route at the time, but for any of the four routes generally considered to be most difficult on Denali’s south and southwest faces: the Denali Diamond, McCartney-Roberts, Light Traveler, and Slovak Direct. In 2022, they upped the ante when they joined up with Rob Smith to climb the Slovak Direct in 17 hours and 10 min. In next year’s 2025 AAJ, his more recent mountain adventures will live on, testifying to the kind of life he shaped for himself, including a new route on Mt. Hunter, a massive ski link-up in the Tetons, and a new route on the Grand Teton.  Reading through these stories, you can see the creativity and quiet passion he brought to his climbing, and to his life.  Describing his conflicted relationship to the mountains in an article for Alpinist in 2022, Mike writes how, when he climbs: “An indescribable awareness of place and peace takes hold. On the other hand, there are consequences to devoting yourself to the mountains. I know them intimately, and yet year after year, death after death, I continue to climb.” We can’t know if Mike would have thought it was all worth it. All we can do is honor the incredible void his death has left behind.  Our thoughts are with Michael’s family and climbing partners. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/10/18/a-tribute-to-michael-gardner
  • IFSCI

    Speed qualifications & finals U16 | Guiyang 2024

    Videos climbing ifsc
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4-6Q91_Yvk