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  • Fri Night Vid War and Peace - A Craig Dorys Epic

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    UK ClimbingU
    Originally graded E5, War and Peace, an epic 16-pitch traverse across Craig Dorys on loose and friable rock, was first climbed by Pat Littlejohn and Steve Sustad in 1997 over two-and-a-half days, with 20 hours of climbing time. The Lln Peninsula guidebook quotes Pat, saying: "It would go well in two days with a biv... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775150
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • Three Climbers Die on the Matterhorn

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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/three-climbers-die-on-the-matterhorn/
  • Jana Švecová is Projecting Excalibur 5.15c

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    GrippedG
    The V15 climber was encouraged by Will Bosi to give the difficult sport climb a try The post Jana Švecová is Projecting Excalibur 5.15c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jana-svecova-is-projecting-excalibur-5-15c/
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    GrippedG
    A funky route, some weird camera work, and tight performances between Paris Olympians defined the men's Lead final The post Hometown Hero Jakob Schubert Wins Innsbruck Lead World Cup appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/hometown-hero-jakob-schubert-wins-innsbruck-lead-world-cup/
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    climbingC
    https://www.climbing.com/news/watch-daniel-woods-nina-williams-compete-in-denvers-civic-center-next-weekend/
  • 0 Votes
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    IFSCI
    https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/news/speed-climbers-start-their-oqs-adventure-with-qualification-rounds
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bky5a2WdnYY