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Matilda Söderlund Climbs 5.13d in Yosemite

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    American Alpine ClubA
    A prominent trend in international climbing is the rise of local climbing communities and cultures around the world, not least in Nepal. As documented in Bernadette McDonald’s award-winning Alpine Rising book, Sherpas and other Nepali climbers, who long worked in the mountains only as skilled employees, now guide their own paying clients and, increasingly, go climbing for fun, with impressive results—the 2021 first winter ascent of K2 being the most dramatic example. The 2025 AAJ will have our biggest Nepal section in many years—at least 38 pages of new routes and exploration—and one reason is the number of Nepali climbers exploring their local mountains, from the first ascent of 6,750-meter Khumjungar to success on the huge south-southwest ridge of Cho Oyu after more than 40 years of attempts. Here, we’re sharing the story of a Nepali expedition to the remote and wild Kanjiroba Himal: Three 8,000-meter guides went on a post-work holiday adventure and succeeded on the first ascent of a 6,500-meter peak. In the premonsoon season of 2024, Nepali guides Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa worked commercial expeditions to 8,000-meter peaks. After returning to Kathmandu, they enjoyed only a few days of rest before heading to Jumla in West Nepal, arriving on June 4. They were perfectly acclimatized for the adventure ahead: the first ascent of the highest summit of the Patrasi group, situated on the western rim of the Kanjiroba Sanctuary, a trip partially sponsored by the Mount Everest Foundation. None of the climbers had previously trekked or climbed in the area.      Along with four helpers from Kathmandu, the team drove to Pere (2,700m) on June 5. Adding a local guide and three porters, they then walked four hard days via the Chaudhabise Valley to a base camp at 5,050 meters below the west side of the Patrasi group. Day three involved crossing the Tang Tang Pass (4,950m) and descending to an overnight camp at 4,100 meters in the Changda Valley, where they met an encampment of local people gathering yarsagumba (caterpillar fungus) for traditional Tibetan and Chinese medicine. At 8 a.m. on the 10th, they began their ascent of Patrasi. They first climbed a 200-meter snow couloir to reach the northwest ridge of Patrasi II (6,471m). After climbing 11 belayed pitches with rock to French 5a (around 5.8), and simul-climbing other sections, they reached 5,700 meters, where they were able to fashion a partial tent site. For safety, they slept that night in their harnesses. The following morning, they left at 5 a.m. After another 11 pitches (up to M4) and a little simul-climbing, they arrived at 6,000 meters, where they decided to pitch their second camp at around 4 p.m. The climbing had been quite challenging, in cold and windy conditions with intermittent snow showers. The rock was poor, and there were many places where protection points were 10 to 15 meters apart. At 4 a.m. on June 12, the three set out for a long summit push. Following the corniced ridge, then crossing a section of hard blue WI3, they reached the top of Patrasi II, descended a little to a snow slope, then headed up onto the left flank of the northeast ridge of Patrasi I. They reached the 6,521-meter summit at 4:35 p.m. in cloudy weather. The descent was long and tiring, with their muscles cramping toward the end of the day. Downclimbing and 15 long rappels (they climbed on 70-meter ropes) took them back to the 6,000-meter camp. It was 9:30 p.m., and they didn’t bother to cook, instead falling asleep very quickly. On the 13th, it took the trio almost 11 hours to descend all the way to base camp. By the 17th, they were back in Jumla. All equipment and nondegradable waste was packed out, and they left only five snow stakes, 10 pitons, and some cord on the mountain. Commenting on the trip, Pasang Kami Sherpa said, “This expedition added an interesting chapter to my mountaineering journey. It was in stark contrast to my experience on 8,000m peaks, where fixed rope, oxygen, well-stocked camps, and support systems are the norm. Here, we were on our own, a small team carrying only essential things, making our own decisions, and adapting to whatever ... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/16/the-line-nepali-climbers-on-nepals-mountains
  • Two Climbers Die on Carstensz Pyramid

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    GrippedG
    Two Indonesian climbers died of hypothermia after reaching the summit The post Two Climbers Die on Carstensz Pyramid appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/two-climbers-die-on-carstensz-pyramid/
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    Yann CamusY
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePJojNyKuQw
  • Daniel Woods Climbing Five of His Hardest

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    GrippedG
    Short videos featuring the strong American on V16s and one V17 The post Daniel Woods Climbing Five of His Hardest appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/daniel-woods-climbing-five-of-his-hardest/
  • Boardman Tasker Book Award 2024 Shortlist

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    GrippedG
    The winner of this year's competition will be announced this fall The post Boardman Tasker Book Award 2024 Shortlist appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/boardman-tasker-book-award-2024-shortlist/
  • Sling vs belay loop #climbing

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abzY4-HoKrQ
  • A Look at the New Unparallel Qubit Climbing Shoe

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The Qubit is a sport climbing beast, with some of the stickiest rubber on the market The post A Look at the New Unparallel Qubit Climbing Shoe appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gear/a-look-at-the-new-unparallel-qubit-climbing-shoe/
  • Bodies of Climbers Recovered Near Squamish

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    GrippedG
    Three experienced climbers went missing around Atwell Peak in early June The post Bodies of Climbers Recovered Near Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/bodies-of-climbers-recovered-near-squamish/