Skip to content

CLIMB: Behind the Scenes of the Cutting Edge Grant, with Jack Tackle

General News
1 1 119 1
  • In this episode, we sit down with legend Jack Tackle to discuss all things cutting edge. We begin by diving into the many first ascents of Jack’s own alpinism career, his progress as a climber, and his deep history with the AAC. We cover the evolution of adventure grants in climbing, how the AAC’s Cutting Edge Grant got started, and why it’s the premiere climbing grant in today’s climbing scene. We also cover the last few years of successes that have come out of Cutting Edge Grant expeditions, a behind the scenes look at some of the considerations these alpinists face when pursuing such high-end objectives, and how Jack’s experience can shed light on the significance of these ascents. Plus, we cover some of the other AAC grants and how they meet the needs of climbers at all levels. 
    We don’t cover the exact details of the expedition planning process, or how important it is for these expeditions to be respectful and cognizant of both local cultures and environmental issues, or what happens when things go disastrously wrong. That’s for another episode!
    If you love following the cutting edge of climbing, or are considering applying to the Cutting Edge Grant yourself this year, or want to soak up Jack’s wisdom, this dive into the history and present of adventure grants is a fascinating look at the logistics it takes to pursue the cutting edge! 
    You still have time to apply to the 2024 Cutting Edge Grant, presented by Black Diamond! Apply before midnight on Dec 31, 2024.

    Apply to the Cutting Edge Grant

    Learn More About Jack Tackle’s Legendary Alpine Climbing Career

    Apply to Other AAC Grants


Suggested topics


  • The Prescription—Free Solo Fall

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    107 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    Besides being prime time in the high country, summer is a high-traffic season for alpine rock and long moderate climbs. This time of year, climbers of all levels venture unroped onto “easy” terrain. Every year, we also see a handful of free solo accidents. These are almost always fatal and usually take place on well-trafficked moderate routes. A disturbing pattern emerged last year when several fatalities occurred on adjacent formations in the same area. Recently, the Flatirons above Boulder, Colorado, saw three fatalities, two within two days in mid-December. On December 16, 2024 the Boulder County Sheriff’s Office received a report that 42-year-old Keith Hayes did not return home that evening. Around 9 p.m., friends of Keith found his body near the top of Second Flatiron after he presumably fell while unroped from Freezeway (5.7). Friends of Hayes report that there was no sign of snow or ice on the route and that there was no sign of broken rock contributing to the fall. The day after, December 17, a 27-year-old male was reported missing after not returning home in the evening from a Flatirons climb. The Boulder Emergency Squad found the body of the missing male the next day on the Standard East Face route (5.4) on the Third Flatiron; he was presumed to have fallen unroped. Rocky Mountain Rescue Group recovered the body after an eight-plus-hour operation. “Scrambling” blurs the line between third-class (easy unroped climbing) and fifth-class technical climbing. While the grade of the actual climbing is often anywhere between 5.0 and 5.6, the terrain is climbed unroped and is usually accompanied by consequential fall potential. A search of the Accidents archive reveals 33 accidents in the Flatirons described and analyzed by the editors (including 11 deaths) since the 1950s. Many of these were the result of unroped climbing. The editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, Pete Takeda, walks us through why free soloing or scrambling accidents are so prevalent in this area. Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing; Producers: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney; Editor: Sierra McGivney; Location: Flatirons, Boulder, Colorado. Freezeway is a steep, alternate finish to gain the summit of the Second Flatiron after completing one of several low-angle east face routes. Keith Hayes was very experienced and had climbed this route without a rope many times before his fall. The Standard East Face of the Third Flatiron is one of the most popular beginner climbs in the U.S. and is frequently climbed unroped. The accidents shocked the local community, and the timing and proximity of both fatalities gained national attention. These tragedies serve as a reminder of the inherent risks of free solo climbing. Experience and fitness do not guarantee survival, and familiarity can degrade attentiveness. (Source: Friends of Keith Hayes and Bill Kinter.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/8/12/the-prescription
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    142 Views
    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ak39sFzaesM
  • How Your Ears May Be Affecting Your Climbing

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    128 Views
    GrippedG
    Don't let auditory overload ruin your next day at the crag or boulders The post How Your Ears May Be Affecting Your Climbing appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/how-your-ears-may-be-affecting-your-climbing/
  • THE CLUB | A Year Inside The Scottish Drytooling Club

    Videos climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    109 Views
    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4Okhtf4b6Y
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    147 Views
    climbingC
    Jimmy Chin just found the boot of Andrew "Sandy" Irvine—who disappeared on Everest alongside George Mallory in 1924—at the foot of Everest's North Face. It isn't answering as many questions as we'd hoped. https://www.climbing.com/news/sandy-irvine-remains-found-everest/
  • Could You Climb This Scary Yosemite Pitch?

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    141 Views
    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/could-you-climb-this-scary-yosemite-pitch/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    135 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    “We’re not sponsoring The Climbing Zine, because we’re only doing digital ads this year,” my contact at Patagonia told me.  This was a setback I’d been anticipating — Patagonia has pulled back from a few different long term sponsorships — but to hear these words directly, from my long term business colleague who represents the… https://climbingzine.com/keeping-the-zine-alive-after-losing-patagonia/
  • 2024 BMC AGM Results and New President Announced

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    182 Views
    UK ClimbingU
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=771996