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  • New Video of 12-Year-Old Climbing 5.14d

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Leo Cea recently ticked his fourth 5.14d with Trip Tic Tonik The post New Video of 12-Year-Old Climbing 5.14d appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-video-of-12-year-old-climbing-5-14d/
  • Alpinists Aim for Fitz Roy First in Winter

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The Goretta Pillar is one of Patagonia's most famous big routes, thanks in part to the storied first ascent The post Alpinists Aim for Fitz Roy First in Winter appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alpinists-aim-for-fitz-roy-first-in-winter/
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Yosemite's iconic granite walls draw climbers, hikers, and outdoor recreationists from all over the world. Big wall climbers spend long days on El Cap and Half Dome above the valley floor, attempting free ascents or classic aid climbs. Due to the park's growing popularity, reservations and permit systems have been implemented. Climbing is no exception.  In 2021, Yosemite NPS began a two-year big wall permit system pilot program in hopes it would help climbing rangers understand patterns on the wall and minimize negative impacts on the landscape through education. In January 2023, the permit program became permanent, and now all climbers staying overnight on big walls are required to have a permit.  As with everything in the climbing community, there has been a lot of discourse surrounding this, as seen on Reddit and Mountain Project threads over the past couple of years. Climbers speculated: Would the rangers be enforcing a quota? Would these permits be available 24/7, or would reservations need to be made in advance? Would climbers have to use the dreaded recreation.gov? Through the permit system, big wall permits are free and available for climbers to self-register 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, near the El Capitan Bridge at a kiosk near the food lockers. There is no quota for routes.  In addition to timed permits, during peak hours (6 a.m. and 2 p.m. on Memorial Day weekend, any day between June 15 and August 15, or Labor Day weekend), climbers must make reservations to enter the park. This is a timed entry reservation that is also used at other parks, such as Zion National Park, Rocky Mountain National Park, and Arches National Park, allowing the park to regulate the influx of visitors.  There is no formal check-in with the rangers after climbing (or bailing). Yosemite climbing rangers and stewards use the information they gather from the permit system to update an Instagram account that reports on big wall traffic. The Instagram's daily posts include information for the number of people on popular climbs like Freerider/Salathe, Zodiac, and Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome.  "It is a work in progress, but we are trying to find a sustainable way to get that information out to climbers so that people can disperse from crowded routes if they want," said Yosemite Climbing Ranger Cameron King. The feedback the rangers have received on the account has been positive.   Below, we've created a guide to help you navigate your next Yosemite trip filled with all the fine print and details to minimize route finding off the wall. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/27/the-yosemite-big-wall-permit-system-impact-and-logistics
  • Carlo Traversi Sending The Big Island V15

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The American climber adds another classic boulder to his tick list The post Carlo Traversi Sending The Big Island V15 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/carlo-traversi-sending-the-big-island-v15/
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    GrippedG
    The pitch that avoids Changing Corners was established before the first free ascent by Lynn Hill. It's just been waiting for a free ascent The post The Schnoz! Climbers Free Variation to The Nose in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/the-schnoz-climbers-free-variation-to-the-nose-in-yosemite/
  • First Ascent of Patrescence E9 7a by Angus Kille

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    Angus Kille has made the first ascent of Patrescence E9 7a at Nant Peris Quarry in Llanberis, North Wales. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774903
  • Calgary Has New Outdoor Granite Boulders

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    They were installed in a famous park near downtown and they have dozens of problems to climb for free The post Calgary Has New Outdoor Granite Boulders appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/calgary-has-new-outdoor-granite-boulders/
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Climbers have a meaningful relationship with the landscapes they love, and advocating for public lands is a critical piece of that relationship. Outdoor recreationists have a powerful connection to place, and that connection makes us a powerful force for conservation. Outdoor Alliance is a national coalition of outdoor recreation advocacy groups that American Alpine Club has been a part of for six years, and together, we work to protect public lands and waters and advocate for climbing and other outdoor recreation. The AAC is the largest community of climbers in the country, and is dedicated to advocating for climbing landscapes and resourcing climbers with essential climbing knowledge and rescue coverage. Since Outdoor Alliance started ten years ago, the coalition has helped protect 40 million acres of public land and water, secured $5.1 billion in funding for the outdoors, and has converted hundreds of thousands of outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor advocates. Here are some of important victories that the American Alpine Club (AAC) and Outdoor Alliance (OA) have notched together: The EXPLORE Act is a first-of-its-kind package of outdoor recreation policy that has been a priority for Outdoor Alliance for many years; the package recently passed the House. It includes sections that will directly protect rock climbing experiences on public lands, a big priority for the AAC.  The Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) Act is a significant piece of the EXPLORE Act, and has been a focus for the AAC, Access Fund, and the wider Outdoor Alliance coalition. The PARC Act is intended to ensure safe and sustainable access to rock climbing in designated Wilderness areas. It requires federal agencies to recognize recreational climbing as an appropriate activity in accordance with the Wilderness Act of 1964, which states that the placement, use, and maintenance of fixed anchors is appropriate, and ensures that a public comment period is made available to stakeholders prior to any final climbing management guidance being issued. The AAC has also educated their members about the SOAR Act, joining the AMGA who is one of the principle long-time supportess of the SOAR Act. This is another piece of the EXPLORE Act which will streamline recreational permitting for outfitters and guides, benefiting other Outdoor Alliance members like The Mountaineers, Mazamas, and Colorado Mountain Club.   Now that The House has voted to pass EXPLORE, the AAC and OA are advocating for the Senate to also get it across the finish line. Learn more and write your lawmakers about it here.  In 2018, the Trump Administration rolled back protections for the Bears Ears National Monument by more than 80% and Grand Staircase-Escalante by nearly half. Since then, the AAC and its partners at Outdoor Alliance have been continuously educating outdoor enthusiasts about the fight to preserve Bears Ears. This included a lawsuit led by Access Fund against the Trump administration, advocating for the monument to be restored, and participating in a public comment on a new management plan for the restored monument. In 2021, the Biden-Harris Administration restored protections for Bears Ears and the Grand Staircase, which honored the voices of Indigenous communities, climbers, and conservationists alike. The coalition work led by Outdoor Alliance was hugely impactful in bringing outdoor recreationists together on this issue. The AAC is committed to keeping their members updated on future management plans and staying active in this ongoing discussion. The AAC will continue advocating for the role of climbing and responsible conservation by sharing their expertise on land management issues pertaining to climbing, and interfacing with land management agencies, the BLM and USFS, as well as other partners and local and national climbing organizations, to continue to refine the Bears Ears National Monument Draft Resource Management Plan and Environmental Impact Statement... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/27/outdoor-alliance-and-american-alpine-club-working-together-to-protect-rock-climbing-landscapesnbsp