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10 Rock Climbing Falls for Your Entertainment

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    GrippedG
    Two of the world's best backcountry skiers have opened a new line on one of North America's most famous mountains The post South Face of Canada’s Mount Robson is Skied for First Time appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/south-face-of-canadas-mount-robson-is-skied-for-first-time/
  • 10 Tips to Climb Through the February Blues

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    From healthy food to getting outside, here are some ways to stay stoked during the final month of winter The post 10 Tips to Climb Through the February Blues appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/10-tips-to-climb-through-the-february-blues/
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    UK ClimbingU
    This week's Friday Night Video follows Robbie Phillips and Will Birkett to the Outer Hebrides and out into the Atlantic on the wild and windswept Scottish archipelago of St Kilda. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777098
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    GrippedG
    "Hanging out with the family in my favorite place, watching the kids embrace the epic exposure and challenge of the Captain was up there with my most memorable climbs. The snowstorm was the icing on the cake!" -- Leo Houlding The post Leo Houlding Climbs El Cap with his Family During a One-Year World-Wide Adventure appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/leo-houlding-climbs-el-cap-with-his-family-during-a-one-year-world-wide-adventure/
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    climber-magazineC
    Steve McClure has snatched the second ascent of James McHaffie's Yma O Hyd (E10 7a) in north Wales as the season for mountain trad comes to a close. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/steve-mcclure-gets-second-ascent-of-yma-o-hyd-e10-7a/
  • Climbing En Plein Air by Birch Malotky

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    The dance of renewal, the dance that made the world,  was always danced here at the edge of things…   —Ursula K. Le Guin, Dancing at the Edge of The World   My first sense of it is auditory. I am walking toward the rim, eyes straining to see over an edge I can’t yet… https://climbingzine.com/climbing-en-plein-air-by-birch-malotky/
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    American Alpine ClubA
    By: Sierra McGivney "The impressive rock spires of Great Trango Tower and Trango (a.k.a. Nameless) Tower create one of the wonders of the Earth, capturing the imagination of everyone who travels on the Baltoro Glacier. Great Trango resembles a giant castle flanked by steep walls. On top of nearly a mile of sheer rock, four magnificent summit turrets comprise the East, West, Main (middle), and South summits," writes John Middendorf. Great Trango Tower is located in the Baltoro Glacier region of the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. The Karakoram is located mostly in northern Pakistan but also reaches into Tajikistan, China, Afghanistan, and India, creating a diverse ecosystem. Cutting-edge alpinists travel to the area to test their skills by climbing new routes on some of the biggest walls in the world. Great Trango Tower, which sits at 6,286 meters, offers challenging granite face-climbing and unforgettable rock features. The climbing history of the mountain runs deep, so we have compiled a list of must-read ascents on Great Trango Tower from the AAJ.  Don't worry! We haven't forgotten Trango Tower (AKA Nameless Tower), the other famous monolith in the Trango Towers group. Our next dive into the AAJ archives will focus on the legendary ascents on Nameless Tower, so be on the lookout. Until then, dive into these epic stories from Great Trango Tower.  Great Trango Tower. Climb Year: 1977. Publication Year: 1978. Author: Dennis Hennek. This list wouldn't be complete without the first ascent of Great Trango Tower. After rerouted and canceled flights, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Dennis Hennek, and Dr. Lou Buscaglia began their trek through the Shigar Valley up the Braldu River Valley, where they met up with the final member of their team, Dr. Jim Morrissey. Once they established basecamp on Trango Glacier, a four-day storm settled over them, causing debris to fall on their proposed climb. "The scene greeting us at the base of the gully brought us back to reality and the seriousness of the next 3,500 feet." On the first day of climbing, Hennek, Rowell, Schmitz, and Roskelley witnessed an avalanche filling the gully they had just ascended, where they believed Buscaglia and Morrissey to be. But "luck stayed with us"— the two had scrambled to the side of the gully to check out a waterfall, the avalanche narrowly missing them. This was only the first day, and it wouldn't be the only hurdle in their journey. Yet the rewards were great. "The afternoon was warm and clear, with an unobstructed, unforgettable view in all directions. We all agreed that there could be no better view of the Baltoro Karakoram." Read about the first ascent while looking at black and white photos from their expedition here.  Great Trango, Pakistan. Publication Year: 2005. Author: Kelly Cordes. This article stands out in the AAJ archives because of what a saga this ascent turned out to be. Josh Wharton and Kelly Cordes climbed Great Trango’s southwest ridge, which they called the Azeem Ridge (7,400' vertical, 5.11R/X A2 M6), in what they deemed "delusional optimism," "disaster style," and "safety fifth!" climbing. Cordes and Wharton climbed 54 pitches, facing many challenges. On the second pitch, one side of their jury-rigged double-gear slings came undone, causing about a quarter of their cams to fall. Then, halfway up the wall, the two ran out of fuel, leaving them with only one option, sucking on snow in place of drinking water. Cordes wrote: "When we reached the bivouac where our last fuel sputtered out, we never spoke of retreat." On the fourth morning, Wharton's headlamp slingshotted out of his hands and was lost to the tower. Soon after, Cordes’ belay device suffered the same fate. At this point, their only option was up and over. Continue reading about how Cordes and Wharton kept heading up, even against all odds.  Great Trango Tower's Northwest Face. Publication Year: 2000. Author: Jared Ogden.  This article was written at the turn of the century when technology and climbing began t... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/28/must-read-ascents-on-great-trango-tower-from-the-american-alpine-journal
  • WTF Is Up With The IFSC Camera Work?

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Many viewers expressed confusion as to why the operators zoomed in on hands and feet instead of showing the action The post WTF Is Up With The IFSC Camera Work? appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/wtf-is-up-with-the-ifsc-camera-work/