Skip to content

Hope In The Desert (an excerpt from American Climber by Luke Mehall)

General News
1 1 123 1

Suggested topics


  • Denali Rescue, 1979: The Untold Full Story

    General News climbing
    1
    1 Votes
    1 Posts
    27 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode, we have climbing legends Jamie Logan, Jack Tackle, and Ken Currens on the podcast to retell the story of an accident and rescue on Denali from 1979. Jack Tackle and Ken Currens were climbing partners with a number of big mountains and first ascents under their belt, and in 1979, it was their first trip to the Alaska Range. They had decided to attempt the unclimbed southeast face of Denali (also known as Mount McKinely). This face would later become known as the Isis Face. In the middle of the climb, Ken, on lead, took a 250 ft fall when snow gave way beneath him. Once the rope came taught, he was hanging in mid air over a cliff, his femur badly broken. The rescue that followed is a story for the ages. We dive into the mechanics of the accident, what Jack Tackle had to do to get help, and how Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump—two of the most impressive alpinists of the time—were critical in helping save Ken. She and Mugs are especially known for the first ascent of the Emperor Face the year before, and though Mugs has passed, Jamie was able to fill us in on their experience of the rescue. In this episode, these climbing legends put together, in real time, the pieces of this story (that they all remember a tad bit differently)—47 years later. Learn More About Jack Tackle Learn More About Jamie Logan The First Ascent of the Emperor’s Face in the AAJ https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/3/5/denali-rescue-1979-the-untold-full-story
  • The Singularity V15 Repeated in Squamish

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    113 Views
    GrippedG
    Toshi Takeuchi sent the problem on his final attempt of the final day of his visit to the Canadian town The post The Singularity V15 Repeated in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/the-singularity-v15-repeated-in-squamish/
  • Will Bosi FAs a 5.14d in the UK

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    99 Views
    GrippedG
    Spots of Lime is Bosi's latest hard sport climbing route The post Will Bosi FAs a 5.14d in the UK appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/will-bosi-fas-a-5-14d-in-the-uk/
  • An incredible climbing challenge

    Videos climbing
    1
    1 Votes
    1 Posts
    205 Views
    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEYA5imi6Ac
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    137 Views
    GrippedG
    Eighteen years after establishing The Nose, Warren Harding completed one of his final routes—ordering his team to chop bolts and rivets as they climbed The post Yosemite’s Removed Big Wall: Steve Bosque Remembers the Porcelain Wall appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/yosemites-removed-big-wall-steve-bosque-remembers-the-porcelain-wall/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    179 Views
    climbingC
    Max Barlerin is a family man who holds down two jobs while also running a fledgling business of his own. But he also somehow found the time to open a 14-pitch 5.13 in Wyoming's remote Wind River Range. https://www.climbing.com/news/children-of-the-sun-first-ascent/
  • How To Maximize Your Pull-Up Trainings

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    153 Views
    climbingC
    Pull-ups are the most commonly practiced training exercise for climbing, yet how much do we really know about them? https://www.climbing.com/skills/pull-ups-for-beginners/
  • This Rope is More Cut-Resistant Than Most

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    177 Views
    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/gear/this-rope-is-more-cut-resistant-than-most/