Nearing the end of our Spanish climbing trip.
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Nearing the end of our Spanish climbing trip. This was from yesterday, "Three Sixty", a 120m multipitch at Coral East not far from El Chorro. (So-called because of the 360° view that you're rewarded with from the summit ridgeline, and there's a fun abseil off the back!) This is my first experience of sport climbing, and it's been a lot of fun. I think I probably still prefer British Trad, but you can't argue with the weather! #Climbing #SportClimbing #ElChorro #Spain
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Nearing the end of our Spanish climbing trip. This was from yesterday, "Three Sixty", a 120m multipitch at Coral East not far from El Chorro. (So-called because of the 360° view that you're rewarded with from the summit ridgeline, and there's a fun abseil off the back!) This is my first experience of sport climbing, and it's been a lot of fun. I think I probably still prefer British Trad, but you can't argue with the weather! #Climbing #SportClimbing #ElChorro #Spain
Lean into it - it starts as a guilty pleasure, but does make you ponder on the very British tendency to seek epics on Hard Severes.
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Lean into it - it starts as a guilty pleasure, but does make you ponder on the very British tendency to seek epics on Hard Severes.
@Badgardener @mootParadox That's how it starts... You find yourself thinking, "But it's so eeeasy to go sport climbing", and, "It's sooo much lighter; so much less gear to carry!". Before you know it, you'll be in a beanie with your shirt off, wrestling pebbles above an oversized mothercare play mat... Just say no!
(Confession: Me, I love the technical movement challenge of sport at my limit *shrug* just a shame that British sport climbing is a bit weak compared to its trad) -
@Badgardener @mootParadox That's how it starts... You find yourself thinking, "But it's so eeeasy to go sport climbing", and, "It's sooo much lighter; so much less gear to carry!". Before you know it, you'll be in a beanie with your shirt off, wrestling pebbles above an oversized mothercare play mat... Just say no!
(Confession: Me, I love the technical movement challenge of sport at my limit *shrug* just a shame that British sport climbing is a bit weak compared to its trad)@jcmchammy @Badgardener I'll definitely be back - and I found particularly with the multipitch, we were alternating leads and the bolted belay points made it so easy. It would have to be a winter activity for me at this latitude though... 19°/20° this week seems just right. Don't think I could stand the heat here in summer.
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@jcmchammy @Badgardener I'll definitely be back - and I found particularly with the multipitch, we were alternating leads and the bolted belay points made it so easy. It would have to be a winter activity for me at this latitude though... 19°/20° this week seems just right. Don't think I could stand the heat here in summer.
Despite having had arthritis for 35 years after being ejected off an unprotected VS in the Peak, I've still always carried a strong ethos of trad - but I do particularly like the continental approach to big routes, of bolting at belays and where appropriate.
Hasn't stopped me being benighted on a couple of occasions, but it's like the faff and unnecessary risk is taken out, and the climbing itself highlighted
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Despite having had arthritis for 35 years after being ejected off an unprotected VS in the Peak, I've still always carried a strong ethos of trad - but I do particularly like the continental approach to big routes, of bolting at belays and where appropriate.
Hasn't stopped me being benighted on a couple of occasions, but it's like the faff and unnecessary risk is taken out, and the climbing itself highlighted
Plus, I've been sufficiently into bouldering in the past that I've literally written a small-scale area guide to it.
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D devnull moved this topic from Uncategorized on
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Plus, I've been sufficiently into bouldering in the past that I've literally written a small-scale area guide to it.
@badgardener@mastodonapp.uk @mootparadox@fosstodon.org I think it's wild that there is such a strong trad ethic over in the UK.
Here it seems the alpine and outdoors clubs are a minority. The crags are mostly frequented by gym-first climbers venturing outdoors, mentored by local area guides and other gym climbers, and it is almost universally sport climbing.
... or maybe all the trad folk keep away from us sport climbing weenies for fear we might make them boulder.
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@badgardener@mastodonapp.uk @mootparadox@fosstodon.org I think it's wild that there is such a strong trad ethic over in the UK.
Here it seems the alpine and outdoors clubs are a minority. The crags are mostly frequented by gym-first climbers venturing outdoors, mentored by local area guides and other gym climbers, and it is almost universally sport climbing.
... or maybe all the trad folk keep away from us sport climbing weenies for fear we might make them boulder.
@devnull @Badgardener I must admit that my trad leads here are amongst the easier grades! But I do like the "leave no trace" ethic. I've heard some arguments for (discreet!) bolted top anchors. Some local crags here are basically impossible to safely belay from, so you typically find steel ground stakes driven in a few metres back from the crag - they feel solid, but maybe a couple of bolts could be even safer? I might get myself shunned by traditionalists for even thinking that!!
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@devnull @Badgardener I must admit that my trad leads here are amongst the easier grades! But I do like the "leave no trace" ethic. I've heard some arguments for (discreet!) bolted top anchors. Some local crags here are basically impossible to safely belay from, so you typically find steel ground stakes driven in a few metres back from the crag - they feel solid, but maybe a couple of bolts could be even safer? I might get myself shunned by traditionalists for even thinking that!!
I grew up through the bolting debates in the UK, and there was very quickly a hard line driven between limestone and other types of rock. Retrobolting was seen as a plague, and chopping was common. It all got a bit silly, but the enduring refusal to place bolts on gritstone has been correct, I think.
Top anchors are different, and I think there are arguments for their use even at lower grade venues like windgather, but I doubt we'll be seeing it any time soon.
