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Sean Bailey Opening The Doors of Perception V15

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  • The Implications of Warmer Winters for Ice Climbing

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    A short film from the American Alpine Club about what a changing climate means for ice climbing The post The Implications of Warmer Winters for Ice Climbing appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/the-implications-of-warmer-winters-for-ice-climbing/
  • 1 Votes
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    JCMcHammyJ
    So, once again I find myself lacking actual mountains for #MountainsWrapped 2024, but I think @bergmeister 's year's summary of the outdoors idea is great, so Imma go with it again with some crag pics from the year that have some meaning for me. Sparser pickings for me this year as I haven't got much outdoor climbing in for various reasons; mostly the fabulous British summer, my fave climbing partner heartlessly pushing off to another country for a few months, and me doing a bunch of training courses and assessments. This year included finishing my RCI - which would have appeared in this post but for the minor problems of not having any pics, finishing it in the p**sing rain, and Sheepstor being about the least mountainous place I've climbed. So here goes; meaning as well as description in the AltText#Climbing #Kalymnos #Dewerstone #WintoursLeap #Trowbarrow #LimestoneClimbing #TradClimbing #SportClimbing #GraniteClimbing
  • The Line: A Great Year for Women in the Mountains

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    All-women teams have been exceptionally active around the world this year. This month we’re highlighting two of them: a Slovenian women’s expedition to Zanskar, India, and an Italian pair in the Pamir Alai of Kyrygzstan. Two other highly ambitious expeditions in 2024 involved American women: Chantel Astorga, supported by an AAC Cutting Edge Grant, nearly completed a new route up Shivling in India with Fanny Schmutz; and Michelle Dvorak, armed with a McNeill-Nott Grant, got high on the unclimbed southeast buttress of Chaukhamba III, also in India, with Fay Manners, before a rockfall incident forced them down. Just this month, Babsi Zangerl made her extraordinary flash of an El Cap free route. Plenty more women’s climbs will appear in the 2025 AAJ: See the gallery above for a little preview! Our all-female expedition to Zanskar, India, was comprised of Ana Baumgartner, Urša Kešar, Patricija Verdev, and me (all from Slovenia). On August 26, we left the road with 18 porters to climb in the Lalung Valley. Our main goal was Lalung I and neighboring peaks. The day after our arrival at base camp, we explored higher up the valley. It took an entire day to make a 20-kilometer round trip on moraine and glacial terrain, and, as the weather was poor, we didn’t see much of the higher peaks. On August 31, Patricija and I climbed a new route on a granite north-northwest face not far from base camp. This buttress, which starts at around 4,200 meters, lies on the south side of the valley and rises to Peak 5,346m. One route had been climbed previously near the center of this face, by Indians Korak Sanyal and Spandan Sanyal (see AAJ 2018). Our new route, Connection (VI-), took 15 hours and involved around 1,400 meters of climbing. Before moving up to an advanced base camp, we had a nighttime visit from a bear. It was an unpleasant encounter, with the animal sniffing around our tents for food. All four climbers were happy to relocate to a bear-free advanced base at 4,800 meters. Urša had difficulties with the altitude, however, so after a couple of days she and Ana returned to base camp, where they and our cooks and liaison officer had to deal with a full-on bear saga. After more than 10 nighttime bear visits, resulting in Patricija’s tent being ripped, heaps of food stolen, and the toilet tent demolished, they managed to scare off the bears with fire and enjoy a few peaceful nights. During this period, Urša and Ana climbed two more new routes on the north-northwest face of Peak 5,332m, finishing on the northwest ridge. Meanwhile, on September 9, Patricija and I left advanced base for the east ridge of unclimbed Lalung I (6,243m), camping a little way above the start. We’d had a forecast for a good weather window, but a snowstorm on the 10th forced us to set up tent in the middle of the day and sit out the bad weather. The storm lasted all the next day, but the 12th dawned clear and we climbed late into the night. Day five on the ridge required even more determination, and it wasn’t until 1:30 a.m. that we settled down for a rest, having climbed the final difficult mixed pitches. In a moment of carelessness brought on by fatigue, we lost our tent poles to the wind and slept in the open in bivouac sacks. The next morning was foggy, making it hard to navigate, but after some snow slopes, we reached the summit at 9 a.m. on the 14th. We proceeded with a long descent along the west ridge and then five rappels on the north face to reach the glacier at 6:30 p.m. It took another eight hours to reach advanced base. Next day, we descended to base camp. Just before stepping off the moraine, we saw three silhouettes, Ana, Urša, and Freni, who brought smiles to our tired faces. We named our route Here Comes the Sun (M6+ AI5+, with around 2,000 meters of climbing). — Anja Petek, Slovenia Camilla Reggio and I met on the Eagle Team of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) and immediately became friends, connected by our huge passion for the mountains. We decided to plan our first expedition together and ended up in Kyrgyzstan, with the intent of climbing on the incredible granite of the Ak-su Valley in the Pamir Alai mountains. We hoped to open a new route.  Walking up and down the valley in search of possible lines, we were impressed by the 500m south face of Pik 3,850m (a.k.a. the south buttress of Pik Slesova). The following morning, August 12, we brought a... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/11/17/the-line-a-great-year-for-women-in-the-mountains
  • We're in this book

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKiIbPziR6I
  • Is Adam Ondra Done With Bouldering Comps?

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    After competing at the recent Prague World Cup, one of the world's best climbers says he's going to focus on Lead competitions The post Is Adam Ondra Done With Bouldering Comps? appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/is-adam-ondra-done-with-bouldering-comps/
  • We compromised this ATC... #climbinggear #breaktest

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR2voG4zKB0
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    climbingC
    https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/mens-speed-final-paris-olympics/
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    climbingC
    Sunna Shinn went from fundamentalist Baptist teacher to nonbinary climbing TikTok influencer in five years. As they learned to climb, they learned to embrace their queerness. https://www.climbing.com/people/nonbinary-climber-sunna-shin/