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Do This, Not That (Part 1)

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  • A series of quick tips on best practices. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. This post covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. (Last 3 tips are for Premium Members.)


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    The line is a sit-start to the future-classic Forgotten Gem V15 The post Switzerland Has a New V16 with Nicolai Užnik’s Full Gem appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/switzerland-has-a-new-v16-with-nicolai-uzniks-full-gem/
  • Nina Arthaud Topping a Swiss V14

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    Compass North was the French climber's first of the grade The post Nina Arthaud Topping a Swiss V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/nina-arthaud-topping-a-swiss-v14/
  • A Tribute to Virginia Boucher

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    American Alpine ClubA
    It is with great appreciation that the American Alpine Club honors and celebrates the life of Virginia (Ginnie) Boucher—an unsung hero in the Club’s history.  Virginia Boucher was the chair for the AAC Library Committee for a decade, and a driving force in introducing best practices to the AAC Library from the 1990s onward—including online access to the AAC’s library catalog, expansion of library staff, and implementing interlibrary loans in this highly niche space of mountaineering libraries and literature. Boucher was also instrumental in the physical move of the AAC Library from the AAC’s original Clubhouse in New York to its current location among the mountains of Golden, Colorado.  Boucher received the 2005 Angelo Heilprin Citation from the AAC for exemplary service to the Club, thanks to her transformational leadership at the AAC Library. Not only did her leadership bring the full force of library science to bear on this now world-renowned library and archive, but she also helped steward the acquisition of many pieces of the John M. Boyle Himalayan Collection and the Nicholas B. Clinch Collection, two keystone collections in the AAC’s current holdings.  In the notes announcing her award of the Heilprin Citation, the Award Committee shares some tidbits that suggest that Boucher wasn’t just the bookish type—she also had a flair for adventure. The committee notes that she and her husband, Stanley Boucher–a lifetime member of the AAC—were known for their unplanned night descents, and had a hilarious story about fighting off porcupines in the San Juans. She climbed the Grand Teton, Rainier, and many of Colorado’s mountains, and in her early years started off her climbing at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs.  Boucher’s extensive impact as a volunteer for the AAC’s Library Committee was fueled by her love for the mountains and her calling as a librarian. But by the time she was serving on the committee, she had left climbing behind her. In her autobiography, she writes of this part of herself: “I know a number of those who have ‘summited’ Mount Everest…those who are addicted to boulders, and a few such as myself who climb [only] in our memories.” But even so, climbing was a part of her history and identity, and after shepherding the AAC Library into the world-class institution it is today, she recalls how her volunteer involvement with the AAC Library brought her full-circle in her career: “I have drawn upon my special library experience…to give the best advice I can to this emerging and unique library… And finally, I have returned to my beginnings; I shelve books once again.” https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/a-tribute-to-virginia-boucher
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    UK ClimbingU
    In this week's Friday Night Video, we get front row seats to Babsi Zangerl's historic flash of Freerider on El Capitan.Setting off on a ground-up attempt this past November, Babsi and her partner Jacopo spent three days battling polished slabs, offwidths, and cryptic sequences. In the end, Babsi topped out as the first person to flash El Cap... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=780947
  • Katie Lamb Makes History (Again) with V16 Ascent

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    GrippedG
    She recently topped Carlo Traversi's The Dark Side V16, Yosemite's hardest boulder problem The post Katie Lamb Makes History (Again) with V16 Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/katie-lamb-makes-history-again-with-v16-ascent/
  • Our Favourite Spring Rock Climbing Shoes

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    GrippedG
    Spring climbing with warm weather and clear skies is just around the corner The post Our Favourite Spring Rock Climbing Shoes appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gear/buyers-guide/our-favourite-spring-rock-climbing-shoes/
  • Staša Gejo Steps Away From Comp Climbing

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    GrippedG
    A familiar face on the IFSC scene, moving forward the top Serbian climber is going to focus her efforts on the rock The post Staša Gejo Steps Away From Comp Climbing appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/stasa-gejo-steps-away-from-comp-climbing/
  • Ray’s Red Truck by Roy McClenahan

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    ClimbingZineC
    In the rich caravan of climbers whom we meet at the crags, people come and go. Some, like the flowing of mountain streams, make a daily ritual of their appearance on the stone. Others show up every weekend, while outliers make the scene only once a month, or less. Climbers who’ve shared the bonds of… https://climbingzine.com/rays-red-truck-by-roy-mcclenahan/