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Laura Rogora Sends Classic 5.14d in Only Three Tries

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  • After Doubt, Climbers Reach Summit of K2

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    High winds forced many climbers to abandon their summer attempt to climb K2 The post After Doubt, Climbers Reach Summit of K2 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/after-doubt-climbers-reach-summit-of-k2/
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    The 18-year-old has already claimed two World Cup golds, and the season has just begun The post With the First Two World Cups Done, Sorato Anraku Looks Unstoppable appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/with-the-first-two-world-cups-done-sorato-anraku-looks-unstoppable/
  • Alex Honnold Gets Bouldering Speed Record

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    The world's most famous free-soloist gets a speed record on a tall problem called Plumber's Crack The post Alex Honnold Gets Bouldering Speed Record appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-honnold-gets-bouldering-speed-record/
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    “We were in tennis shoes, t-shirts, Levi’s, had strong arms, and not a hell of a lot of judgment.” The post Lost Arrow Chimney, Yosemite, 1955: Jerry Gallwas Recalls Climbing This Wide Testpiece appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/lost-arrow-chimney-yosemite-1955-jerry-gallwas-recalls-climbing-this-wide-testpiece/
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    Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll has completed a multi-year project on El Mocho The post Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll Frees 13-Pitch Patagonia Route at 5.13 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/sean-villanueva-odriscoll-frees-13-pitch-patagonia-route-at-5-13/
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    Sébastien Bouin has established the hardest route in China with the first ascent of El Gran Cabron (F9b). https://www.climber.co.uk/news/seb-bouin-makes-first-ascent-of-china-s-hardest-sport-route-el-gran-cabron-f9b/
  • The Prescription—August

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    American Alpine ClubA
    https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/8/13/the-prescriptionaugust
  • All Aspects

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    American Alpine ClubA
    The AAC DC Chapter hosts a New Ice Climber Weekend in the Adirondacks with Escala Grassroots: Unearthing the Future of Climbing By: Sierra McGivney The sun peeked over the Pitchoff Quarry crag, hitting the ice and creating an enchanting aura. The cool February air was saturated with people laughing and ice tools scraping against the ice. If you listened closely, you'd notice that the conversations were a beautiful mix of English and Spanish.  The New Ice Climber Weekend (NICW), hosted by the AAC DC Chapter, has become an annual event. Piotr Andrzejczak, the AAC DC chapter chair and organizer of the New Ice Climber Weekend, believes mentorship is paramount in climbing. The weekend aims to provide participants with an opportunity to try ice climbing, find ice climbing partners, and have a starting point for more significant objectives. Above all, it aims to minimize the barrier to entry for ice climbing.  Last year, Andrzejczak approached Melissa Rojas, the co-founder of Escala and volunteer with the DC Chapter, about partnering to do a New Ice Climber Weekend with Escala. Escala is part of the American Alpine Club's Affiliate Support Network, which provides emerging affinity groups with resources in order to minimize barriers in their operations and serving their community. Escala “creates accessibility, expands representation, and increases visibility in climbing for Hispanic and Latine individuals by building community, sharing culture, and mentoring one another.” Climbing can be a challenging sport to get into. It can require shoes, a harness, a gym membership, and climbing partners. Ice climbing requires all that plus more: ice tools, crampons, and winter clothing.  "There's a lot more complexity to ice climbing," said Rojas. Ice climbing can be limited not only in quantity but also in quality. Due to climate change, the ice in the Adirondacks loses its quality faster than previous decades and the climbs are only of good quality for a limited amount of time. DC climbers are at least seven hours from the Adirondacks, plus traffic and stops, so ice climbing for them has unforeseen logistical challenges. During the NICW, participants can focus more on the basics of learning to ice climb and less on logistics. Rojas and Andrzejczak hosted a pre-meetup/virtual session so that participants could get to know each other and ask questions ahead of time. "We wanted to give folks an opportunity to ice climb in a supportive environment where they felt like they were in a community and were being supported throughout the whole process, from the planning stage to the actual trip," said Rojas. Another focus of the weekend was creating a film. Colt Bradley attended the New Ice Climber Weekend in 2023 as a videographer and as a participant. Bradley volunteers with the AAC Baltimore Chapter and is also Andrzejczak's climbing partner. Last year, he created four Instagram videos that captured the excitement of ice climbing for the first time. When asked to film the Escala x NICW this year, he wanted to do something longer and more story-focused. Bradley and Rojas talked beforehand about focusing the film on the Escala community and highlighting the bond made possible through its existence.  Rojas has worked hard to build up this blended community of Spanish-speaking climbers. Spanish has many flavors, as it is spoken in many different countries with different cultures—all unique in their own way. The film focused on reflecting and representing the vibrant community of Escala.  Soon, they all found themselves at Pitchoff Quarry in the Adirondacks. While the participants learned how to swing their ice tools and kick their crampons into the ice, Bradley sought out community moments. He wanted to put viewers in the moment as participants climbed, so he mi... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/18/all-aspects