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    ClimbingZineC
    My path as a climber had to face a most real enemy: pure unadulterated fear. This fear manifested itself in the biggest baddest canyon, nearby, the most intimidating chasm in Colorado, and even the entire United States, The Black Canyon. Excerpt from American Climber, a memoir by Luke Mehall “The Black” as we called it,… https://climbingzine.com/benightedonthecruise/
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABq-mQzfanU
  • Don’t Be A Trad Princess with Mary Eden

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    To kick off Luke’s summer climbing road trip, he stopped in Moab, Utah for this conversation with Mary Eden, also known as the Trad Princess. Our sponsors for Season 7:  Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email holds@kiltergrips.com for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Subscribe/ score some books/clothes/stickers: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ photo by Spencer McKay https://climbingzine.com/dont-be-a-trad-princess-with-mary-eden/
  • The Line— Skiing the Tetons Enduro Traverse

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and back to the valley floor to complete the Enduro Traverse—an unprecedented ski mountaineering adventure. Adam’s story about the Enduro will be in AAJ 2025. We’re offering a condensed version here. You can read an extended story—replete with Adam’s history of Teton link-ups—at the AAJ website. In 1963, John Evans, Richard Long, and Allen Steck completed the Grand Traverse, a summertime traverse of ten Teton Range summits, from Nez Perce to Teewinot (the opposite direction of how this now-classic traverse is usually done today). In the 1965 AAJ, Steck wrote, “Any route or time of day is acceptable, however, only be sure to finish within 24 hours.” For the Enduro ski traverse of the Tetons that I envisioned, sub-24 hours was our sole metric, as Steck had laid it out for us. For some years, I’ve been exploring Teton link-ups on skis with various partners, culminating with a day of skiing the Grand Teton, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot Mountain by some of their most technical routes. Sam Hennessey, Brendan O’Neill, and I pulled off this fine adventure in March 2023. To me it seemed logical to bring all of our experiences together in a much longer traverse—to see how far we could go in under 24 hours. In the Alaska Range, I have enjoyed moving under the midnight sun for 24, 30, hell, even 64 hours—why not see how this would work back home? It gets darker in Wyoming in the spring than in Alaska, but we have headlamps. The idea of the Enduro Traverse was to enchain the Teton skyline from Buck Mountain in the south to Teewinot, crossing over Mt. Wister, South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, and Mt. Owen along the way. At 6 p.m. on April 22, with the day’s heat still in the air, Michael Gardner, Brendan O’Neill, and I started skinning up Death Canyon in wet, sloppy snow. Under an endless sunset, we climbed the east ridge of Buck Mountain (11,938’) and clicked in on top for our first descent at 9:15 p.m. (A full moon allowed us to complete all the climbs sans headlamps, but we did use the lamps for our descents.) We skied down Buck’s hyper-classic east face and used a piece of terrain called the Buckshot to drop into the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon. The next climb was the South Headwall of Mt. Wister (11,490’), which flows into the upper east ridge. We reached Wister’s summit at 10:53 p.m. This was the lowest peak in our traverse, yet it packed a punch. The northeast face offered up some proper steep skiing—it felt engaging via headlamp—and deposited the three of us in the North Fork of Avalanche Canyon. Our next ascent took us up the South Teton’s Amora Vida Couloir (much more fun to descend than ascend), and here we encountered our least efficient travel of the day, with heinous breakable crust and soggy snow engulfing our entire legs. From the top of the South Teton (12,514’), the descent by the Northwest Chute was fast and uneventful. Now in Garnet Canyon’s South Fork, we began our climb up the Middle Teton’s Southwest Couloir, where efficient cramponing put us on the summit rather quickly. The descent down the east face into the Middle Teton Glacier route was harrowing on the refrozen undulating snow left by skiers who had descended in the warm days before us. But we were not there for the ski quality, rather the continuous movement. From the North Fork of Garnet Canyon, we made quick work of the Ford-Stettner route, topping out the Grand Teton (13,770’) at 6 a.m., 12 hours into our journey. The sun was beginning to rise above the horizon, and it felt great to embrace its warmth again. With a long block of daylight ahead, the three of us were confident as we descended the Ford-Stettner, with some thoughtful downclimbing in the Chevy Couloir, which is normally rappelled. (To save weight, we did not carry a rope and chose lines that would go without one.) We made our way into the Dike Snowfield an... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/19/the-enduro-traverse
  • 0 Votes
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    WilmaT
    Caroline Ciavaldini trying a corner route. Most of the time corner routes have tiny foodholds and your feet are constantly positioned in the same angle which can give you terrible aching legs/feet So, it's a huge relief when you finally reach the anchor. #climbing #rockclimbing #girlswhoclimb
  • Experts Say Xenon Gas Will Not Help Climb Everest

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    "Xenon is rarely used in medicine and is not approved in all countries. Its use should be reserved for the operating room and procedural sedation by specialists with appropriate training in anesthesia" The post Experts Say Xenon Gas Will Not Help Climb Everest appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/experts-say-xenon-gas-will-not-help-climb-everest/
  • 1 Votes
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    JCMcHammyJ
    First send vid of the year, inspired by the upcoming cave reset. Actually pretty doable if you're only mildly wasted and not completely boxed before you try it... There's probably a lesson in there, but damned if I can spot it #Climbing #Bouldering #IndoorBouldering #ClimbingIsMyPassion #WeaAeSpiderClimbers
  • Dani Arnold Gets Prestigious Climbing Award

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    He's one of the most accomplished alpine soloists ever. This is the 12th year the award has been given out The post Dani Arnold Gets Prestigious Climbing Award appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/dani-arnold-gets-prestigious-climbing-award/