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They Could Be Retired. Instead, They’re Chasing Unclimbed Peaks in the Karakorum.

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  • Mejdi Schalck Flashes V14

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Schalck's first-go ascent of Casavino V14 in Switzerland is his hardest flash ever The post Mejdi Schalck Flashes V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/mejdi-schalck-flashes-v14/
  • IFSC World Cup 2025 Salt Lake City: Boulder Results

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    Last weekend, the IFSC World Cup circuit landed in the home of US competition climbing, Salt Lake City, for the third boulder World Cup of the season. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781750
  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • 1 Votes
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    GrippedG
    As part of a YouTube series, the climber with the most 5.15 sends to date shares tips that new climbers can use to improve The post These Gym Tips by Adam Ondra Will Help You Climb Better appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/these-gym-tips-by-adam-ondra-will-help-you-climb-better/
  • Rappelling on 5mm?

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuqUlkAQvBI
  • Ice Climber Takes Big Fall and More Chaos

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Ice climbing is more popular than ever, be careful out there this winter The post Ice Climber Takes Big Fall and More Chaos appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/ice-climber-takes-big-fall-and-more-chaos/
  • A Tribute to Michael Gardner

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Michael Gardner 1991-2024 We are deeply saddened by the death of Michael Gardner: a great alpinist and a vibrant life.  Michael was on an expedition funded by the AAC’s Cutting Edge Grant, attempting the unclimbed north face of Jannu East in Nepal with his long time climbing partner Sam Hennessey, when he fell to his death on October 7th, 2024. We are grateful that Hennessey is safe after the incident.  There have been so many tributes to Mike in the last few days that attest to his incredible empathy, enthusiasm, dedication to the craft of climbing, pure motivations and lack of ego. Indeed, his quiet pursuit of the mountains on his own terms means his legacy is not flashy, but found in traces and in the background—he was climbing and skiing for the sake of the craft, not for recognition. Yet he was repeatedly the preferred partner for Cutting Edge Grant recipients like Hennessey, and his name appeared again and again in the American Alpine Journal over the last few years, for his new routes, fast ascents of iconic faces, and creative ski alpinism. Rather than listing his great ascents here, and reducing him to a list of accomplishments, we encourage all who knew him, all who were inspired by him, to dive into the AAJ stories that feature him—as a way to walk, for a brief moment, alongside him in the memories of some of his greatest life experiences in the mountains. The mountains called him back again and again, whether it was to put up a new rock route on Mt. Owens, Renny Take the Wheel (1,500’, 8 pitches, IV 5.11), or envision the first ascent of Hot Cars and Fast Women (850m, M6+) with Hennessey on Denali’s Ridge of No Return. Mike and Sam were also simply fast. Their second ascent of Light Traveler (M7) on the southwest face of Denali in 2018 was not only the fastest for this route at the time, but for any of the four routes generally considered to be most difficult on Denali’s south and southwest faces: the Denali Diamond, McCartney-Roberts, Light Traveler, and Slovak Direct. In 2022, they upped the ante when they joined up with Rob Smith to climb the Slovak Direct in 17 hours and 10 min. In next year’s 2025 AAJ, his more recent mountain adventures will live on, testifying to the kind of life he shaped for himself, including a new route on Mt. Hunter, a massive ski link-up in the Tetons, and a new route on the Grand Teton.  Reading through these stories, you can see the creativity and quiet passion he brought to his climbing, and to his life.  Describing his conflicted relationship to the mountains in an article for Alpinist in 2022, Mike writes how, when he climbs: “An indescribable awareness of place and peace takes hold. On the other hand, there are consequences to devoting yourself to the mountains. I know them intimately, and yet year after year, death after death, I continue to climb.” We can’t know if Mike would have thought it was all worth it. All we can do is honor the incredible void his death has left behind.  Our thoughts are with Michael’s family and climbing partners. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/10/18/a-tribute-to-michael-gardner
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    stibS
    Hannah Morris Bouldering is a great #climbing channel on YouTube. What I like that the host is a normal person, rather than an Olympic level superstar or anything. Each episode she talks to coaches and mentors that are always useful.In this episode she talks to Lynn Hill, a truly inspiring woman who was the first to free climb* The Nose on El Capitain in Yosemite, a feat that was thought impossible, and not repeated by anyone for over a decade. It has only seen a handful of ascents since.Even if you're not planning a big wall climbing career it's a great story, and it's criminal that Lynn Hill is not a household name, unlike some of the blokes who followed her. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE*(free climbing means climbing without using aid devices, but with rope and fall protection, as opposed to free soloing where you have no fall protection because you're a dick).