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Climbing News from assorted publications

This category can be followed from the open social web via the handle news@community.openbeta.io

2.8k Topics 2.9k Posts
  • Chris Sharma Establishes New 5.14d Deep Water Solo

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    GrippedG
    He adds Vision Quest to his long list of hard Mallorca DWS first ascents The post Chris Sharma Establishes New 5.14d Deep Water Solo appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/chris-sharma-establishes-new-5-14d-deep-water-solo/
  • Will Gadd: Keeping your hands & feet warm, Part 3

    climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    The last of a three part series: battle tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/will-gadd-keeping-your-feet-warm-part-3
  • USA Wilderness Climbing Protected by Law

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    climber-magazineC
    The Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act (PARC) just passed Congress. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/usa-wilderness-climbing-protected-by-law/
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    climbingC
    For the second week in a row, this climber is lucky to be uninjured. https://www.climbing.com/videos/climber-grabs-quickdraw-takes-big-fall/
  • For the Love of it - A Climbing Story featuring Jim Pope

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    UK ClimbingU
    In this week's Friday Night Video, Wedge Climbing follow Jim Pope; a climber who loves a bit of every discipline. This film follows some of his adventures from the last year and gives a little glimpse into his mindset. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777269
  • EXPLORE Act Passes and NPS Discontinues Fixed Anchor Proposal

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    American Alpine ClubA
    It has been a momentous week for climbing policy, and we want to thank all of you who shared your voices with your legislators on these matters. The EXPLORE Act, which the AAC and its partners have been working on in some form or another for nearly 10 years, passed with unanimous consent, and is awaiting a presidential signature as we speak. Secondly, the National Park Service announced late Wednesday afternoon (December 18th) that they were discontinuing the development of their proposed fixed anchor guidance. What does this mean for climbers? The EXPLORE Act: The EXPLORE Act, introduced by Rep Bruce Westerman (R-AR) and Rep Raul Grijalva (D-AZ), is a historic recreation package that has had widespread bipartisan support and support from outdoor recreationists of all stripes—including climbers, mountain bikers, hunters, anglers, and more.  The most important elements of the EXPLORE Act for climbers are two-fold.  First, EXPLORE includes the Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) Act, introduced by Rep. Joe Neguse (D-CO) and Rep John Curtis (R-UT). The PARC Act is intended to ensure safe and sustainable access to rock climbing in designated Wilderness areas. It requires federal agencies to recognize recreational climbing as an appropriate activity in accordance with the Wilderness Act of 1964, as well as recognizing that the placement, use, and maintenance of fixed anchors is appropriate. The act also ensures that a public comment period is made available prior to any final climbing management guidance being issued. Essentially, the PARC Act officially recognizes that the use of fixed anchors for climbing (and Search and Rescue operations) continues to be appropriate in Wilderness areas, provided it does not diminish the wilderness character of the area. Second, EXPLORE includes the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation Act (SOAR Act), which will increase accessibility to the outdoors by improving recreational permitting for outfitters and guides. How? By: Additional elements of the EXPLORE Act include improving access to parks and public lands for veterans and people with disabilities by building additional accessible trails; the BOLT Act, which will create more long-distance biking trails; and the codification of FICOR and the Outdoor Recreation Legacy Partnership, which funds local parks and green spaces, and provides direct access to funding for tribes for developing green spaces. AAC Executive Director Ben Gabriel synthesized this win, saying: “It has been such a privilege to work with all the outdoor recreation organizations, and legislators from both chambers and parties, to see the EXPLORE Act through. This historic recreation package will broadly serve the public, protect recreation resources, and provide for our gateway communities.” As you might imagine, the AAC is thrilled with what this all means for public lands and accessibility to climbing across the United States! This win would not be possible without the combined efforts of our incredible partners, especially Outdoor Alliance, Access Fund, AMGA, and The Mountaineers. Fixed Anchor Policy: The National Park Service announced on December 18th that they were discontinuing the development of their proposed fixed anchor guidance. The update said that, "Park leaders will continue to manage climbing activities in Wilderness on a park-by-park basis consistent with applicable law and policy, including the Wilderness Act." This announcement comes nearly a year after Park officials sought public comment on proposed regulations which suggested a new interpretation of installations as defined in the Wilderness Act. This new interpretation, which could have prohibited fixed anchors in Wilderness, was met with significant concern from climbers, climbing organizations, and other recreation enthusiasts, as well as search and rescue professionals, throughout the country.   The AAC thanks the NPS for sensing the need to reevaluate the proposed regulations and looks forward to collaborating with them in the future on fixed anchor guidance. The AAC, Access Fund, Mountaineers, and many other organizations, worked tirelessly to educate lawmakers on the potential impacts of prohibiting fixed anchors, which resulted in 14 Senators reaching out to the Secretaries of the Department of I... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/12/19/xqb6m95tn7yzrj9c0gjad322vzx4zx
  • 5 Best YouTube Channels for Beginner Boulderers

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    climbingC
    Brand new or just looking to improve, here are some good places to start. https://www.climbing.com/skills/bouldering/5-best-youtube-channels-for-beginner-boulderers/
  • 10 Tips for Cold Weather Sport Climbing

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    GrippedG
    Take advantage of that perfect cold temperature friction with these tactics The post 10 Tips for Cold Weather Sport Climbing appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/10-tips-for-cold-weather-sport-climbing/
  • Congress Passes Act to Protect Rock Climbing

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    climbingC
    For the first time in history, climbing in the Wilderness is legally protected https://www.climbing.com/news/congress-passes-protect-americas-rock-climbing-act/
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/victory-congress-passes-protecting-americas-rock-climbing-act
  • Toru Nakajima climbs Sleepwalker, 8C+, in two sessions

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    UK ClimbingU
    Toru Nakajima has made a rapid ascent of Sleepwalker (f8C+), in Black Velvet Canyon, Nevada, climbing the boulder on just his second session. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777238
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    UK ClimbingU
    Depot Climbing continues its commitment to advancing indoor rock climbing in the UK by opening one of Europe's biggest mixed-use climbing centres in Wythenshawe, South Manchester. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777235
  • Alex Huber, 55, Climbs New 76-Metre-Tall 5.14c Pitch

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    GrippedG
    The legendary climber continues to push the limits after 40 years of hard climbing The post Alex Huber, 55, Climbs New 76-Metre-Tall 5.14c Pitch appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-huber-55-climbs-new-76-metre-tall-5-14c-pitch/
  • How to Prevent the Screaming Barfies

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    GrippedG
    Here's what they are and how to avoid them, plus some videos showing climbers mid-barfies The post How to Prevent the Screaming Barfies appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/how-to-prevent-the-screaming-barfies/
  • Sungsu Lee Climbs 6 V15s and a 5.15 in 2024

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    GrippedG
    He finished his strong year with a repeat of Lucid Dreaming V15 this week The post Sungsu Lee Climbs 6 V15s and a 5.15 in 2024 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/uncategorized/sungsu-lee-climbs-6-v15s-and-a-5-15-in-2024/
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/breaking-news-national-park-service-withdraws-proposal-to-prohibit-fixed-anchor
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    climbingC
    And climbers collectively breathe a sigh of relief https://www.climbing.com/news/national-park-service-ends-bid-to-ban-fixed-anchors-in-wilderness/
  • Bolts Allowed to Stay in U.S.A. National Parks

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    GrippedG
    "We must exercise restraint, humility and respect as we climb in these amazing Wilderness areas to ensure that they remain accessible for generations to come.” The post Bolts Allowed to Stay in U.S.A. National Parks appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/bolts-allowed-to-stay-in-u-s-a-national-parks/
  • Sugar Daddy by Steve “Crusher” Bartlett

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    ClimbingZineC
    I’d been driving past this rock, near Hanksville, for years. It’s just begging to be climbed but looked impossible without drilling a ladder of large holes for spikes (rebar? footing stakes?) of some kind. And what kind of fun is that? The “rock” appeared to be too soft to nail, too crumbly to bolt. There… https://climbingzine.com/sugar-daddy-photo-essay-choss-steve-crusher-bartlett/
  • Chic Scott Receives the Order of Canada

    climbing
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    GrippedG
    His book Pushing the Limits published in the year 2000 is one of the most important pieces of climbing writing ever produced in North America The post Chic Scott Receives the Order of Canada appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/chic-scott-receives-the-order-of-canada/