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His highlights include a repeat of The Singularity V15, a flash of Fool Me Once V14, and an FA of Life Is Limbo V13
The post Mind-Blowing Squamish Sending Spree for Olympic Finalist Hamish McArthur appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Mind-Blowing Squamish Sending Spree for Olympic Finalist Hamish McArthur - Gripped Magazine

His highlights include a repeat of The Singularity V15, a flash of Fool Me Once V14, and an FA of Life Is Limbo V13

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

The alleged killer of the CEO of a company spent time at HiClimb in Honolulu
The post Luigi Mangione Climbed at This Hawaii Gym appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Page Not Found - Gripped Magazine

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

A new trend sees young men hiring themselves out to be a "climbing buddy" to strangers
The post Attractive Climbing Buddies Make More Money in China appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Attractive Climbing Buddies Make More Money in China - Gripped Magazine

A new trend sees young men hiring themselves out to be a "climbing buddy" to strangers

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

We caught up with Harrington about her recent ascent of The Nexus, aka the Niels Tietze Memorial Route.

https://www.climbing.com/people/emily-harrington-interview-yosemite-multi-pitch-return/

#Karstmas day 9

Settle in for a technical post about Single Rope Technique!

I already talked about the most widely known, and perhaps widely used systems worldwide: the Frog system.

Today the subject is *my own invention* of a climbing system, to suit the needs of those with, erm, "chests". As a bonus, it also solves a lot of back pain problems so I've noticed over the decade-plus of showing people this option that many others have adapted it as well (including my own partner!).

Where I live and cave a lot, there are deep pits, as you may have figured out. In addition, these pits are well suited to one long rope without rebelays or deviations (sometimes called "alpine style SRT"), since pits here bell out from the top edge meaning quickly you are far from a wall. There's no point in chasing the wall and putting in rebelays, you don't want the rope to touch it anyway! [Some international cavers like to tease cavers here saying we don't SRT, we "IRT" - Indestructible Rope Technique - because of how we just "rig, throw, n go"! But really, our rope just usually doesn't have a chance to touch the rock in the firstplace! ]

Why is that important to know? Well, this means that different techniques are developed to make it easier to climb such long stretches in freehanging space. Many systems were invented over the years but the three that stuck around are:
1) Mitchell
2) Single Bungee Ropewalker
3) Double Bungee Ropewalker

Ropewalkers work as they sound...you literally just take little steps and walk your way right up the rope. You only sit to rest, and many people can "run" up the rope as quickly as they can rappel!

We're ignoring poor Mitchell for now, it has a small but fervent user base...smaller that I've converted some diehards to my invented system...Bungee and a Half Ropewalker!

I invented the Bungee and a Half Ropewalker back in 2012. As I did longer and longer climbs, I learned by 400 feet my ankle was hurting from how a Single Bungee Ropewalker twist it, getting worse under more rope weight as you get higher. Sadly, Double Bungee Ropewalker was not for me either, as it pulled the chestroller plate over my, erm, "chest" meaning I could not breathe under the pressure. Not to mention the painfulness of it! So I combined elements of both, alleviating both of each system's issues, with my creation, the Bungee and a Half Ropewalker. It was somewhat based on a system Miriam Cuddington had played with (if the last name is familiar, yes, wife of "Vertical Bill" Cuddington who I've mentioned before).

One of the really neat things about this system I invented is not only does it have the speed and smoothness of a ropewalker for long climbs, it also has flexibility of use. Because unlike the other ropewalkers, each ascender is easy to use individually, which allows it to excel at "alpine style SRT" as well. It handles rebelays and deviations as smoothly as a frog system can.

In the end, all joking aside about preferred systems and techniques, the gear you train with, the system you know inside and out, that's the one that will get you up the rope safely. If you've studied it well, you can handle the obstacles with ease.

If you'd like to see a video of how this system works, here is a quick two minute video! https://youtu.be/o57-c_zIkT8

#cave #caves #caving #karst #pit #geology #waterfall #adventure #nature #photography #summer #climbing

Don’t you put any more stress on yourself It’s one day at a time —Mac Miller, “Circles” Part of me always thought I’d die young. I had this feeling even before I was a climber, long before I took the risks with our lives that we climbers take. It was probably related to the depression…

The Dirtbags Aren’t Dead, They’re Just In Mexico by Luke Mehall (full story)

The Climbing Zine (climbingzine.com)

Officially given 5.15c, Bouin recently discussed the nuance of his grade assessment
The post Seb Bouin Says Latest FA is Hard 5.15c or Soft 5.15d appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Seb Bouin Says Latest FA Is Hard 5.15c or Soft 5.15d - Gripped Magazine

Officially given 5.15c, Bouin recently discussed the nuance of his grade assessment

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

The popular Shawn Raboutou problem is Bailey's first V17 repeat
The post Sean Bailey Does Alphane V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Sean Bailey Does Alphane V17 - Gripped Magazine

The popular Shawn Raboutou problem is Bailey's first V17 repeat

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Sean Bailey has made the sixth ascent of Alphane 9a in Chironico, Switzerland.

Attention Required! | Cloudflare

(www.ukclimbing.com)

Climbers have been hoping to see Adam Ondra try DNA since it was first climbed in 2022
The post Adam Ondra is Finally Projecting DNA 5.15d appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Adam Ondra Is Finally Projecting DNA 5.15d - Gripped Magazine

Climbers have been hoping to see Adam Ondra try DNA since it was first climbed in 2022

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Cameron Hörst highlights two common hiccups in multi-session projecting—and how you can put them to bed.

https://www.climbing.com/skills/training/pros-advice-projecting-climbs/

Simone Moro and Nima Rinji Sherpa will try Manaslu in alpine style - a success would be monumental
The post Legendary Alpinist and 18-Year-Old to Try Himalayan Peak in Winter appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Legendary Alpinist and 18-Year-Old to Try Himalayan Peak in Winter - Gripped Magazine

Simone Moro and Nima Rinji Sherpa will try Manaslu in alpine style - a success would be monumental

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Only one climber ever has summited the world's highest peak in winter without using supplemental oxygen
The post Climber to Attempt Everest in Winter – a Deadly Undertaking appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Climber Trying Everest Alone This Winter - Gripped Magazine

Only one climber ever has summited the world's highest peak in winter without using supplemental oxygen

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Today, the weather was challenging with intermittent rain, but I still managed to climb three nice routes and take some photos.

#italy #sicily #mountains #climbing #hiking #nature #beach

Waterproof, windproof, breathable, and durable – you couldn't ask for anything more in a shell
The post The Arc’teryx Beta SL Jacket: A Review appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

The Arc'teryx Beta SL Jacket: A Review - Gripped Magazine

Waterproof, windproof, breathable, and durable – you couldn't ask for anything more in a shell

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

#Karstmas day 7

Sorry for the delay folks, today was quite busy with a callout with the K9 SAR team. Happy ending!

So this prompted me to write a bit about safety in caving today, in particular with vertical caves (pits). This is quite the famous pit in Alabama, it's on like every top 5 list to visit (best views, best hikes, best waterfalls, best cave...every clickbait list this cave is on). What is unique about it, is that there is a horizontal walk-in entrance as well, where you can get to this view. This is both good...and bad.

When I started caving many moons ago, this cave was privately owned. So only cavers knew about it, and got permission by directly asking to go. Now, it is owned by a cave conservancy, and is much more open to visitation, just requiring a permit which is free and easy to fill out online. This is good - it lets lots of people enjoy this amazing view you think you'd have to travel far away to see. This is also bad - despite having to check off many things when you get the permit, no one *actually reads*, and as a result...well.

See that nice round rock middle bottom? We all call that "The Pedestal". You can climb the rock down to it, the slippery wet rock over a 40+ foot drop. You aren't supposed to free-climb here, but *everyone* does for their Instagram photo.

I'll make this simple: Never be closer than 6 feet (2 meters) from an edge without being tied in to a safety line. If the edge is sloped to the drop-off, that edge starts at the *top of the slope* where if you fell, you could keep rolling. Great rule of thumb for any edge, whether cliff or cave.

In this case, once you are on the Pedestal, you're okay on a section of it. But if you are climbing the rock up to the right, or wanting to go further down, you need to be tied in. People also like to stand at the pit entrance and lean over to look - there's a small tree on the steep slope they hold onto to do so. Yikes!

Guess who has personally been on the team, not once, but TWICE, that has bagged & pulled bodies out of this pit? Yeah. Coroners do not rappel into caves, cave rescue takes the body bag in, documents & photographs, and pull it back out. So, be safe please, around edges. Don't turn yourself into chunky jelly.

It's not worth the photo.

Now this place has a bunch of signs, but, people do stupid shit they aren't supposed to anyway. So I don't go anymore. Not because of the bodies - I have medical background and am not phased doing that stuff - but because I don't want to *watch* people be stupid. It gives me too much anxiety, and ruins my day. Shame, as it really is gorgeous and it used to be an annual summer trip.

So. Be smart. Be safe. Pick living to see more wonderful things over a single moment's photo.

#cave #caves #caving #safety #rescue #recovery #geology #karst #cliff #climbing

Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

Any potential problems I should be considering?