Skip to content

youtube.com/watch?v=Dh_l-L2oC1…

General Climbing
  • youtube.com/watch?v=Dh_l-L2oC1…

    Fingerboard Row Pyramids drill description:
    🔹 Choose a pair of comfortable holds to train
    🔹 Perform Fingerboard Rows with supported feet in a Pyramid fashion: 10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1
    🔹 Shake out between row series but don’t dismount the fingerboard
    🔹 Beginners: start with 10-8-7 and do 1 set/session
    🔹 Advanced: start going up the Pyramid again: 1-2-3-4… and do up to 5 sets/session with 15-minute rests between sets

    Anyone tried this protocol and have made experience about it?
    Seem like a good solution to an annoying problem. Getting pumped on crimps is acceptable and expected, it just happen, but all those half-jugs and half-finger grip or pinch holds that seem okay'ish often surprises with how fast they make you feel pumped. I'm gonna try this for a month to see what impact it can have on bouldering/climbing, hopefully it will reduce this aspect that often limit progress.

  • youtube.com/watch?v=Dh_l-L2oC1…

    Fingerboard Row Pyramids drill description:
    🔹 Choose a pair of comfortable holds to train
    🔹 Perform Fingerboard Rows with supported feet in a Pyramid fashion: 10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1
    🔹 Shake out between row series but don’t dismount the fingerboard
    🔹 Beginners: start with 10-8-7 and do 1 set/session
    🔹 Advanced: start going up the Pyramid again: 1-2-3-4… and do up to 5 sets/session with 15-minute rests between sets

    Anyone tried this protocol and have made experience about it?
    Seem like a good solution to an annoying problem. Getting pumped on crimps is acceptable and expected, it just happen, but all those half-jugs and half-finger grip or pinch holds that seem okay'ish often surprises with how fast they make you feel pumped. I'm gonna try this for a month to see what impact it can have on bouldering/climbing, hopefully it will reduce this aspect that often limit progress.

    @thefifthseason Whatever fingerboarding protocol you use, remember to train the grip position you're interested in strengthening; iirc, gains only happen in approx 15-20 degrees variation from the grip angle you choose - i.e. training in half crimp does not have major gains for slopers, 3-finger drag, or open hand (or pinch for that matter - thumb strength is a whole other thing)

  • D devnull shared this topic on 28 Dec 2024, 20:27
  • @thefifthseason Whatever fingerboarding protocol you use, remember to train the grip position you're interested in strengthening; iirc, gains only happen in approx 15-20 degrees variation from the grip angle you choose - i.e. training in half crimp does not have major gains for slopers, 3-finger drag, or open hand (or pinch for that matter - thumb strength is a whole other thing)

    @jcmchammy@mountains.social @thefifthseason@venera.social you guys are naming all the stuff I absolutely suck at 😭

    Slopers and pinches especially kick my butt on a regular basis.

    proceeds to blame tendonitis as usual

  • @jcmchammy@mountains.social @thefifthseason@venera.social you guys are naming all the stuff I absolutely suck at 😭

    Slopers and pinches especially kick my butt on a regular basis.

    proceeds to blame tendonitis as usual

    @devnull @thefifthseason So I think I've said it here before, but I'll impart my (second hand from one of the best coaches I know) wisdom on slopers:
    "You don't hold on to slopers with your hands; you hold on with the middle of your back."
    Still possibly the silliest sentence (top 5 at least) that's been said to me that turned out to be true...

  • S Sport Feed shared this topic on 28 Dec 2024, 21:14
  • youtube.com/watch?v=Dh_l-L2oC1…

    Fingerboard Row Pyramids drill description:
    🔹 Choose a pair of comfortable holds to train
    🔹 Perform Fingerboard Rows with supported feet in a Pyramid fashion: 10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1
    🔹 Shake out between row series but don’t dismount the fingerboard
    🔹 Beginners: start with 10-8-7 and do 1 set/session
    🔹 Advanced: start going up the Pyramid again: 1-2-3-4… and do up to 5 sets/session with 15-minute rests between sets

    Anyone tried this protocol and have made experience about it?
    Seem like a good solution to an annoying problem. Getting pumped on crimps is acceptable and expected, it just happen, but all those half-jugs and half-finger grip or pinch holds that seem okay'ish often surprises with how fast they make you feel pumped. I'm gonna try this for a month to see what impact it can have on bouldering/climbing, hopefully it will reduce this aspect that often limit progress.

    JCMcHammy - sound advice you got. I boulder for fun and I feel my level (v4-v6) doesn't warrant fingerboard training (yet), I'm more interested in improving general capacity and skill before advancing to specific fingertraining. I'm much better on slabs and than overhang, so one step at a time 😀

    devnull - yeah slopers can be challenging. One tip I got was to close the fingers together, even squeeze the thumb on the index finger, as that give a stronger grip on a sloper. I used to spread my fingers to maximize surface hold on the slopers but that made the hold weaker so I slipped off frequently. But as JCMcHammy says, be precise with your body position and using the back muscles to hold on to a sloper is a better tip, you won't burn out your arms/wrist so much.

  • @devnull @thefifthseason So I think I've said it here before, but I'll impart my (second hand from one of the best coaches I know) wisdom on slopers:
    "You don't hold on to slopers with your hands; you hold on with the middle of your back."
    Still possibly the silliest sentence (top 5 at least) that's been said to me that turned out to be true...

    @jcmchammy @devnull @thefifthseason

    This. Except I'd go further and say it's in your heels: if they're behind you, you're peeling off the hold.

    (Which is probably to do with your core)

  • @jcmchammy @devnull @thefifthseason

    This. Except I'd go further and say it's in your heels: if they're behind you, you're peeling off the hold.

    (Which is probably to do with your core)

    @Badgardener @devnull @thefifthseason 100% ... But that's *any* hold; if you imagine a line between your contact point and centre of gravity, your weight (ignoring all other forces you're applying) is pulling/pushing along that line. If your CoG is futher out from the wall than the hold you're pulling on, you're at least in some way pulling *out*. If the hold doesn't have an edge like a sloper, it's harder to maintain friction in that direction.
    I was specifically talking about the "applying friction" componant of slopers and it actually feels kinda weird when you first try it. (Now I sound like a clickbait article: "Hold onto slopers with this one weird trick" 🤣

  • @jcmchammy @devnull @thefifthseason

    This. Except I'd go further and say it's in your heels: if they're behind you, you're peeling off the hold.

    (Which is probably to do with your core)

    @Badgardener @devnull @thefifthseason So if you really suck at slopers and want to have a go try this:
    Pull your shoulders up by your ears
    Now roll them back and down as hard as you can manage.
    Can you feel that muscle group engaged in the middle of your shoulders somewhere low between your scapulae?
    Focus on that feeling for a mo.
    Now completely relax your shoulders and, focussing on that feeling, try and engage just that muscle group without tensing the rest of your shoulders... Generally takes a bit of practice, but it *will* work eventually.
    Once you got it, find a suitable, sucky sloper and hang off it, feeling as insecure as you usually do.
    Tense that muscle group; if you're doing it right, your grip in the same position should suddenly feel a bit more secure.

    Bonus short method of testing; Have a friend poke between your shoulderblades in that spot when you're hanging on a sloper - it should engage the right muscles whether you can find them or not.

    /clickbait article over

  • @Badgardener @devnull @thefifthseason So if you really suck at slopers and want to have a go try this:
    Pull your shoulders up by your ears
    Now roll them back and down as hard as you can manage.
    Can you feel that muscle group engaged in the middle of your shoulders somewhere low between your scapulae?
    Focus on that feeling for a mo.
    Now completely relax your shoulders and, focussing on that feeling, try and engage just that muscle group without tensing the rest of your shoulders... Generally takes a bit of practice, but it *will* work eventually.
    Once you got it, find a suitable, sucky sloper and hang off it, feeling as insecure as you usually do.
    Tense that muscle group; if you're doing it right, your grip in the same position should suddenly feel a bit more secure.

    Bonus short method of testing; Have a friend poke between your shoulderblades in that spot when you're hanging on a sloper - it should engage the right muscles whether you can find them or not.

    /clickbait article over

    @jcmchammy @devnull @thefifthseason

    When I was 18, a climbing accident put me on crutches for a year. I was daftly strong - one-armed pull-up strong - but my climbing didn’t improve at all (in large part probably because I was mostly on trad, but continental bolt clipping wasn’t getting any easier, either).

    Then in my early 20s I took up gymnastics for a couple of years, and that caused me to make progress. I worked out that a stronger core, particularly through abdominals and lower pecs, was much more applicable to climbing than big biceps. I recognise what you’re saying about shoulders certainly, and for me there’s a degree of front-lever which goes along with it, particularly on moving up through the sloper.

1/9

28 Dec 2024, 17:25

Suggested topics


  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    2 Views
    The intense winter sun bore down on Longmont's Ice Climbing World Cup stage in Colorado on February 22-23. For the first time since 2019, the United States hosted a UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup. The USA Ice Climbing athletes showed off figure fours and nines (similar to a figure four, but the climber wraps their leg over the same arm instead of the opposite), epic dynos into hanging hoops, and celebrated wins with views of Long's Peak in the background. The warm weather led to thin ice, and an ice pick punctured a pipe, destroying one of the speed climbing walls Saturday night during the speed finals. As a result the format was changed from duel climbing to single. USA Ice climbing athletes Sam Serra and Catalina Shirley podiumed in speed despite the challenging ice conditions. Shirley took silver in speed with a time of 13.64. Serra won his first-ever UIAA Ice climbing medal at Longmont, taking the bronze with a time of 9.07. Making the podium in speed was a "soft" goal for Serra in the Longmont World Cup. "It's just been a steady progress all season," said Serra. During the France World Cup, which was held from January 29 through February 1, Serra's left hand slipped, and he stabbed his thigh with his ice tool, needing three stitches. The past three weeks leading up to Longmont he was mainly focused on recovering in time for the competition. Thanks to the Longmont Climbing Collective building a competition wall for the World Cup, the USA Ice Climbing team has been able to train all season in Longmont. Serra ran a weekly speed training night every Monday. "I think everyone saw a lot of progress, and it's really rewarding to see that pay off, and everyone is performing super well this weekend and in the past World Cups," said Serra. Donned in glitter, Sam Castro, Joann Dyer, Jessica Perez, and Alex Rudow bring their own personal style to competing. "Glitter really makes me send hard," said Jessica Perez with a laugh. This is her third season on the USA Ice Climbing Team. She saw athletes competing in the World Cup in Denver in 2019 and dove into competition ice climbing headfirst. Although doused in the same glitter, the four athletes had different goals for their seasons. "It was my first season, so honestly, my only goal was not having a false start for speed and not stabbing myself, which I was very happy about," said Sam Castro. She achieved her goals this season. "My goal is to enjoy the process and see how far I can test and push my limits and climb with confidence," said Jessica Perez. Each athlete competes individually on the wall, but the USA Ice Climbing team is so tight-knit and supportive that it's almost a team sport. "[Ice climbing competition] is so supportive, too, and it's like such a niche sport, I think. And it's growing. It's cool to be a part of a growing community and see the youth get really into it," said Joann Dyer. Alex Rudow said, "I try to be supportive. The community is already so supportive. I have mainly competed in team sports, and this is probably my first individual sport. But despite that, you spend like nine times out of ten cheering on your teammates. It's awesome to see just how supportive everyone is." This is Rudow's first season on the ice team. In the competitive world, mindset is everything. Seasoned competitor Ryan McCauley made a big mindset change this season. She went into the season wanting to be more playful and present on the wall. "I think that in the past, I've tended to be really rigid and structured with my training. I've told myself this narrative: I just want to train really hard and get really strong, and then it can be really playful during competition season. And then I get there, and I'm like, why doesn't this feel playful? It's because I've related to it for months in a militant way," said McCauley. Her main goal for the Ouray competition was to be more present, and it paid off when she podiumed and took third place. For logistical and financial reasons, McCauley decided to focus on the three competitions in North America: Ouray, Longmont, and Edmonton. At Longmont, McCauley fell early in qualifiers. She sees it as a testament to the finickiness... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/4/2/ice-climbing-competition-a-team-sport
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    16 Views
    It's his second flash of the grade, his first being the famous Jade nearly 10 years ago The post “Possibly the Bouldering Flash Ascent That I Value the Most” – Adam Ondra Flashes V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/possibly-the-bouldering-flash-ascent-that-i-value-the-most-adam-ondra-flashes-v14/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    17 Views
    We talked with local climbers to discover the impacts https://www.climbing.com/news/the-state-of-utah-just-banned-this-womens-climbing-night/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    17 Views
    Skiers find skiable conditions on a steep line near Lake Louise The post Skiers Descend Famous Snowy Rockies Face appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/skiers-descend-famous-snowy-rockies-face/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    20 Views
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvwc28nnLUQ
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    49 Views
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNSYxErFEE
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    29 Views
    <img src="https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/430409?fm=jpg&time=1718718108&w=605&sharp=5&dpr=1&crop=1080%2C720%2C0%2C256&s=eec648b8f633b2a357931b3a85428fd5" /><br><br><p class="card-text d-none d-md-block">Jorge Diaz-Rullo has made the second ascent of Muerte por Asfixia, 8C+, in La Pedriza, Spain. </p><hr /><p><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=772037">https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=772037</a>
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    29 Views
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXUFgmMra_8