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  • Melina Costanza Climbs Her Second V14

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    A couple of months after receiving her first World Championship medal, Team USA's Melina Costanza ticks her second V14 in Utah The post Melina Costanza Climbs Her Second V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/melina-costanza-climbs-her-second-v14/
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8dQIt_dL0g
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    Andrew HelwerA
    Regrettably accepting that I will not be sincerely good at rock climbing (climb 5.12+) unless I legitimately lose 30 lbs. I'm about 205 lbs now on a 6'2 frame, which puts me at a BMI of 26.3. I've become pretty large muscle-wise after switching from climbing to BJJ, since the sport facilitates & also advantages that. Even before switching from climbing to BJJ I noticed I had to use *way* more force to hang onto certain holds than other people I climbed with, just because I weighed more. Losing 30 lbs would get me to 175 lbs, 22.5 BMI, which (limited) data suggests is around where you want to be to be decent at climbing (ideally even lower).There's also a safety aspect to this. Past 200 lbs, ropes will shred more easily when running over sharp edges after taking a fall. More force just means less safety.At age 34 though losing 30 lbs is like a fantasy. I have no idea how I would even do that. Climb Mt Si 3x/week with a 40 lb pack maybe? Spouse points out that I eat quite a lot of bread per week, so maybe will start with substituting that for something else.#climbing
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    Lumi AkimovaL
    This weekend tried ice climbing for the first time. With small drytooling experience, soft-ish ice and slightly positive slope it was surprisingly easy. Once did 5 climbs with no breaks, and only stopped because of queueAlso tried different ice tools: my new Trango Raptor, Petzl Sum'tec and two variations of non striking tools. Non striking are physically easy to to use when ice is not flat, but are harder to trust. Raptors are holding best, but the striking motion is harder to master because of the blade angle. Sum'tecs are just the easiest for beginnersAnd this was an actual frozen waterfall!(more like a frozen shell around still flowing waterfall, and the ice in the middle was quite thin and not attached to the rock)#climbing #mountains #ice
  • Speed Climbing Just Got More Fun to Watch

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The event is now being held with four climbers racing against one and other The post Speed Climbing Just Got More Fun to Watch appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/speed-climbing-just-got-more-fun-to-watch/
  • Iconic Alpinist and Author Chris Jones Dies

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    He established bold new alpine routes and wrote one of the most influential climbing books ever The post Iconic Alpinist and Author Chris Jones Dies appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/iconic-alpinist-and-author-chris-jones-dies/
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    ClimbingZineC
    “We’re not sponsoring The Climbing Zine, because we’re only doing digital ads this year,” my contact at Patagonia told me.  This was a setback I’d been anticipating — Patagonia has pulled back from a few different long term sponsorships — but to hear these words directly, from my long term business colleague who represents the… https://climbingzine.com/keeping-the-zine-alive-after-losing-patagonia/
  • Ryuichi Murai Trying Burden of Dreams V17

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    A new film just dropped featuring his spring trip to Finland The post Ryuichi Murai Trying Burden of Dreams V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/ryuichi-murai-trying-burden-of-dreams-v17/