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  • New Six-Pitch 5.14 Climbed in Austria

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Jacopo Larcher and Babsi Zangerl recently completed the first free ascent of The Next Generation The post New Six-Pitch 5.14 Climbed in Austria appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-six-pitch-5-14-climbed-in-austria/
  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • 0 Votes
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    GrippedG
    The competition, which takes place in Brazil, will see several of the world's best comp climbers going for gold The post Boulder World Cup Heads to South America for First Time Ever appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/boulder-world-cup-heads-to-south-america-for-first-time-ever/
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    GrippedG
    In 2020, he became the first Canadian to climb 5.15a. Now he's the first Canadian to climb two routes of the grade. The post Canadian Evan Hau Talks His Ascent of Death of Villains 5.15a appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/canadian-evan-hau-talks-his-ascent-of-death-of-villains-5-15a/
  • Nature Charity Buys Huge Highland Estate

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    The Scottish Wildlife Trust has bought the Inverbroom Estate, following an anonymous donation of 17.5 Million. The nature charity aims to convert the 7,618-hectare estate into a model for rewilding in Northwest Scotland - one of the biggest su... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779269
  • Noah Wheeler Climbing Return of the Sleepwalker V17

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Watch Wheeler send the United States' first V17 in a newly released video The post Noah Wheeler Climbing Return of the Sleepwalker V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/noah-wheeler-climbing-return-of-the-sleepwalker-v17/
  • Protect a fixed rope with a rebelay

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    If a fixed rope is loaded over an edge, it might get damaged. Here's a simple technique to save your rope: the rebelay. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/protect-a-fixed-rope-with-a-rebelay
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    American Alpine ClubA
    https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/5/28/the-cutting-edge-2024-recipients-announcement