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“Retreat Was Out of the Question”

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4 Sept 2024, 17:00

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    Robbie Phillips has made the first ascent of Away with the Faeries (E9 6c), a new route at Carn Liath on the Isle of Skye. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=780480
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    Access Fund is pleased to announce almost $40,000 in new climbing conservation grants to climbing advocates around the country. Our nine awardees will advance new projects in a parking lot build, road repair, a climbing advocacy summit, human waste solutions, and several large-scale stewardship ... https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/access-fund-announces-nine-spring-2025-climbing-conservation-grantees
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    March 2025 The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Mountain Hardwear are excited to announce the 2025 McNeill-Nott recipients. With the untimely death of Sue Nott and her climbing partner Karen McNeill on Sultana (Mt. Foraker) in 2006, the AAC partnered with Mountain Hardwear to establish the McNeill-Nott Award in their memory. This award seeks to preserve the spirit of these two talented and courageous climbers by giving grants to amateur female climbers exploring new routes or unclimbed peaks with small teams. Heather Smallpage will receive $2,000 to attempt big wall and alpine-style first ascents in a little-climbed region of Baffin Island: Arviqtujuq Kangiqtua (formerly Eglinton Fjord). Natalie Afonina, Shira Biner, Char Tomlinson, and Kaylan Worsnop will all join the expedition, which will be almost entirely human-powered. The expedition team will travel over 250 km by skiing, climbing, packrafting, and walking. The team hopes that this expedition will not only inspire people to see what is possible for female and nonbinary alpinism but also emphasize how increasingly essential and joyous these spaces are in this sport and will tell a story that includes voices that are often quieted or left out of the climbing media. Angela VanWiemeersch will receive $4,000 to attempt to establish a technical line in alpine style on a 5,000-meter peak in the Pamir Alai mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Allie Oaks will join VanWiemeersch on this expedition. Oaks and VanWiemeersch have been growing a long-distance partnership over the last four years and will be doing a training trip in the Canadian Rockies this April. This will be their first big expedition together.  Brooke Maushund will receive $1,000 to attempt to climb and ski unclimbed peaks on the Southern Patagonian Icefield (Hielo Continental) with a primarily female team. Since avalanche forecasting in the U.S. during austral summers, Maushund was driven to extend her winters in the Southern Hemisphere. After spending close to four months skiing in Patagonia last year, starting to learn terrain, snowpacks, and weather patterns, she is excited to continue learning through exploratory skiing in this dynamic, wild environment.  Applications for the McNeill-Nott Award are accepted each year from October 1 through November 30. Berkeley Anderson, Foundation and Grants Coordinator: [email protected] About Mountain Hardwear Mountain Hardwear, Inc., was founded in 1993 and is based in Richmond, CA. We exist to encourage and equip people to seek a wilder path in life. For 30 years, we’ve built essential equipment for climbers, mountaineers, and outdoor athletes and have supported expeditions on the world’s highest peaks. Relentless precision continues to inspire everything we do — our designers sweat every stitch and detail to continuously improve function, durability, and comfort. Mountain Hardwear is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Columbia Sportswear Company that distributes its products through specialty outdoor retailers in the United States and 34 countries worldwide. www.mountainhardwear.com https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/13/the-american-alpine-club-announces-2025-mcneill-nott-winners
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    A series of quick tips on best practices. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. This post covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. (Last 3 tips are for Premium Members.) https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/do-this-not-that-part-1
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qx9SIJjdOUs
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    That's gotta hurt. https://www.climbing.com/videos/weekend-whipper-brutal-fall-v10/
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    Following the men's Boulder semi-final, the women took to the Speed wall for the qualification rounds of the first ever individual Olympic medal event in the discipline. The Olympic record was broken four times, the World Record broken twice and four new continental records set. Tokyo 2020 Olympian Aleksandra Miroslaw eventually set a... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=773570
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    https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/5/28/the-cutting-edge-2024-recipients-announcement