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Crime of the Century is a Classic 5.11c Crack

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    GrippedG
    From a proposed V18 to a V17 repeat to 5.14 onsights and more, climbers are taking advantage of the fall conditions The post It’s Been a Big Month in Climbing – Here’s Some Highlights appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/its-been-a-big-month-in-climbing-heres-some-highlights/
  • On Shooshing and Experience by Ana Ally

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    ClimbingZineC
    shooshing v. 1. Acting cowardly while climbing for no tangible reason.   Note this piece is published in Volume 18 of The Climbing Zine   fingers gripping, slipping soft grains of sand against rubber a brief slide of foot down rock   breath tightens, body clenches doubt seeps in   it’s all too much I… https://climbingzine.com/on-shooshing-and-experience/
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    GrippedG
    Flashed said they will continue with gym padding installations in the USA but will stop retail sales The post Canadian Climbing Company Stops USA Sales Due to Tariffs appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/canadian-climbing-company-stops-usa-sales-due-to-tariffs/
  • Big Alpine Route in Alps Freed at 5.14

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    GrippedG
    The first ascent was done in 2001 solo at a grade of A5 The post Big Alpine Route in Alps Freed at 5.14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/big-alpine-route-in-alps-freed-at-5-14/
  • Laura Rogora repeats Trofeo dell’Adriatico (F9a+)

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    climber-magazineC
    Italian lead specialist Laura Rogora continues her sending spree with two more F9a+’s including a repeat of Gabri Moroni’s Trofeo dell’ Adriatico in Arco. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/laura-rogora-repeats-trofeo-dell-adriatico-f9a/
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    stibS
    Hannah Morris Bouldering is a great #climbing channel on YouTube. What I like that the host is a normal person, rather than an Olympic level superstar or anything. Each episode she talks to coaches and mentors that are always useful.In this episode she talks to Lynn Hill, a truly inspiring woman who was the first to free climb* The Nose on El Capitain in Yosemite, a feat that was thought impossible, and not repeated by anyone for over a decade. It has only seen a handful of ascents since.Even if you're not planning a big wall climbing career it's a great story, and it's criminal that Lynn Hill is not a household name, unlike some of the blokes who followed her. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE*(free climbing means climbing without using aid devices, but with rope and fall protection, as opposed to free soloing where you have no fall protection because you're a dick).
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • Lara Neumeier Repeats Seven Pitch 5.13-

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    GrippedG
    This is the second ascent of the 140-metre route since it was opened in 2022 The post Lara Neumeier Repeats Seven Pitch 5.13- appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/lara-neumeier-repeats-seven-pitch-5-13/